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  • Relays

    Knowing nothing about realys I need to wire two up soon.
    One is for the twin air horns I nabbed out of my old car (i fitted them). I dont know how the Surfs horns are switched and one has broken leaving me the high pitched on that makes me sound like noddy , can someone tell me how to wire it please? I guess ill have to nick one or both of the signal wires from the old horns but not sure where to earth from and what terminals on the relay to use.

    Also I give in to all you people telling me to relay my rear spot - the internal switch has broken so I want to switch it from the dash now, bought a relay and some more wire, what goes where??? (all i have at the mo is BATT/FUSE --> SPOT --> EARTH) obviously not connected cos it would be on all the time!
    Im sorry.... you were right all along!!!
    Tim
    Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

  • #2
    Have a look at this thread http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/forums/sho...ighlight=relay
    its not exactly what you asked, but does cover wiring of relays, wiring and currents etc.

    It should provide some of the answers you require
    Maurice
    Hilux Surf FAQ at www.hiluxsurf.eu

    Comment


    • #3
      I would do it the same way as this:
      http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/workshop/battery.htm
      I guess you dont need such a high amp rating but the rest i guess should be fairly similar.
      or like this
      http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...ghts/corey.htm
      Last edited by truckarms; 18 January 2005, 14:38.

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      • #4
        Thanks for the info so far guys -
        ok as i understand it I will need to wire terminals 30 and 86 to the battery, 85 to the switch then to ground and 87 to the light then to ground...
        That is for a ground switched circuit so Im guessing the Surf uses that?

        I dont want to do it wrong for the air horns cos if you wire it wrong its on permanently!!!! and last time i did it wrong i hit my head on the bonnet cos its so loud!
        Tim
        Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

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        • #5
          Another way of looking at it...

          should help with the prongs on the relays.

          andyL

          PS. I am building up some wiring kits for the Headlamp upgrades as per the first image. So those of you with larger rated bulbs don't lose out on output because the original wiring lets you down. It'll be for 2nd Gen with H4 headlight bulbs. It may fit others. Anyone interested, drop me a PM... I'll charge a small margin, over and above the cost of the parts, and 1/2 the profit will go back to this site to keep it up, or for whatever purpose the admins deem appropriate (Tsunami, MacMillan, Make a Wish, etc...)
          Attached Files
          Last edited by AndyLala; 18 January 2005, 16:34.

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          • #6
            cheers Andy - might be iterested in the new wiring for lights as I upgraded mine.
            I was working from this


            --- just realised thats the same as what you gave me as I dont want to involve my ignition.
            Thanks mate
            Attached Files
            Last edited by dirtydog; 18 January 2005, 16:52.
            Tim
            Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

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            • #7
              So you are using the pulse from the horn button to supply power through the 87 terminal on the relay. Just ignore 87a...

              Although thinking about it, using this layout for the dipped beam, and using your diagram for the full beam, you could set 87a on the full beam to power up the dipped beam as well... (by supplying a switch signal to 85 on the dipped beam relay)

              Hmmmmm, thanks for that... that has made me think about that some more...

              andyL

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              • #8
                OK have just wired up the relay for the rear spot and it works perfectly!
                Hidden the relay in the drivers kick panel too and used a nice switch so I well happy!
                The horn I might do tomorrow.

                What are your plans with the full/dipped beam im not too sure?
                Tim
                Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

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                • #9
                  Sounds like Andy wants to have the option of running dip and main beam together. Could be handy in certain conditions.
                  It's only a hobby!

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                  • #10
                    That's something we used to do on the road rally cars - leave dip beam on all the time. It gives a really good beam pattern with lots of light to see round bends with. Really would need the wiring upgrading first though.
                    Roger

                    My Pointer ate the dog trainer

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Gamedawn
                      That's something we used to do on the road rally cars - leave dip beam on all the time. It gives a really good beam pattern with lots of light to see round bends with. Really would need the wiring upgrading first though.
                      I had that on my Volvo Estate. It was unintentional. The stalk switch broke and I bodged it coz I couldn't afford a new one at the time. It's funny how long temporary jobs can last.
                      It's only a hobby!

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                      • #12
                        what im planning eventually is to have 4 driving lights and 2 fogs, all on for main beam or driving/fog to be switched seperately.
                        can i fit spots under the standard A-bar? I have only seen mounting for under the top bar and above the middle one.
                        Attached Files
                        Tim
                        Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Gamedawn
                          That's something we used to do on the road rally cars - leave dip beam on all the time. It gives a really good beam pattern with lots of light to see round bends with. Really would need the wiring upgrading first though.
                          So we use the original wiring as the switch signal for the relay set.

                          We set the dipped beam to switch on as usual, running a 30amp cable relay set direct from the battery, nice short cable.

                          Main beam switches in another pair of relays to power the main beam element and also switch on the dipped element relay [switching main beam on switches dipped beam off]. (I could put a control in here - ie. you want the dip on as well, or you don't)

                          Does that make sense?

                          Anyone think they would want that feature?

                          I could always make a set up without it and make the upgrade kit to include the extra switch and wire...

                          Comments?

                          andyL

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                          • #14
                            go to the chat room mate ill be there.
                            Tim
                            Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

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                            • #15
                              chat room? there is a chat room here?

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