Power problems

[rusty]

It isn't so much of a problem but help needed.
With the V6 you only get 1 battery so all my ancillary stuff is loaded on to it. I am currently running all these as "extras"

2 x Rinder Spots 2x55w
2 x Rinder Fogs 2x55w
4 x marker lights 4x5w
4 x white strobes (unsure - not a lot though)
4 x alternating rear reds 2x10w + 2x21w
occasional roof strobe (I think it's about 3amp)

Sound system
Sony Single CD Head unit
Alpine T300 amp
Alpine F250 amp
Jensen sub

I need to fit the following extra items
Map light
cigarette light triple extension (for phone charger/bluetooth charger etc)
1 x CB radio
1 x Ambulance Service Radio
2 sockets for extrenal work lights
Change the strobe for a light bar

The alternator is rated at 60amp, I've just had a new battery (says 70 amps on it)
Is it worth
a. split charging 2 batteries (where the hell do I put a second and how small could I get away with)
b. upgraing the alternator (which I guess I would have to do if I split charge) to allow for more current draw

Any help would be appreciated

[rich]

You may need to upgrade the alternator anyway. The current one will run a max of 720 watts.

On the battery front it all depends on how much of it you are going to run whilst the engine is off and for how long.

A split charge would be a good idea if you are going to run the auxillary stuff for a long time without the engine running you could then get away with a standard battery but an Optima Yellow Top would be better as the normal battery will knacker quite quickly if you drain it all the way down.

You might get away with an replacing the main battery with an Optima Yellow Top which will withstand deep cycle http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi...eep_cycle.html


As to where to put a second battery, not a clue :-)

Rich.

[kitesurf_phil]

You may need to upgrade the alternator anyway. The current one will run a max of 720 watts.

On the battery front it all depends on how much of it you are going to run whilst the engine is off and for how long.

A split charge would be a good idea if you are going to run the auxillary stuff for a long time without the engine running you could then get away with a standard battery but an Optima Yellow Top would be better as the normal battery will knacker quite quickly if you drain it all the way down.

You might get away with an replacing the main battery with an Optima Yellow Top which will withstand deep cycle http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi...eep_cycle.html


As to where to put a second battery, not a clue :-)

Rich.

If you have a rear mounted spare you could fabricate a battery box to go in place of the underslung spare wheel. It would have to be pretty weather/damp proof because of the location and good heavy duty wire run to the engine bay (Welder cable is good because it has the same current handling as battery wire but with much thicker insulation).
Of course, if your spare wheel is underneath, I may have exercised my typing fingers for nothing.

[Rob]

Bundubasher has done it to his 3.0td 4Runner
http://www.elphick-pooley.co.uk/htm/enginelectrics.htm

[rusty]

If you have a rear mounted spare you could fabricate a battery box to go in place of the underslung spare wheel. It would have to be pretty weather/damp proof because of the location and good heavy duty wire run to the engine bay (Welder cable is good because it has the same current handling as battery wire but with much thicker insulation).
Of course, if your spare wheel is underneath, I may have exercised my typing fingers for nothing.

I have a rear mounted spare now following an LPG conversion. The gas tanks are underneath where the spare was.
Ah well thanks anyway, at least you're getting the necessary finger exercise

[rusty]

Bundubasher has done it to his 3.0td 4Runner
http://www.elphick-pooley.co.uk/htm/enginelectrics.htm

Yeah, thats a good link, cheers Rob.
The downer is that there is less room on the V6 as the air intake is right where he has put the battery
I have attached a pic of the current bonnet/engine look/cram