Sylex - A Long Long Journey to V8 Awesomeness!

[BUSHWHACKER]

Try it again but this time with a long length of tube over the breaker bar to extend it giving more leverage.

Remember it's the 'shock' of the starter that breaks the grip of the pulley bolt.

[Sylux]

I had a long bit of scaffy bar on, though.

I've just recharged the battery and will give it another go after a bit of soaking.

Maybe the battery hasn't enough starting umph.

Can't get my head around why the rattle gun isn't budging it.

[Sylux]

Maybe time for some heat :/

[BUSHWHACKER]

Maybe time for some heat :/

Don't use heat!

Lock the flexplate to the block somehow and use the breaker bar/scaffold tube plus some good 'ol brute strength and try and loosen the bolt by hand. Obviously the longer the lever the better.
A length of timber to brace the block against the floor would stop the engine from rotating.

[Sylux]

Exactly what I'm setting up Just read about the flexplate technique.

But very glad I read your no heat advice!

[Sylux]

SUCCESS!

Just used a bolt to lock up against the flexplate's viewing window and the breaker bar with next to no effort.

I'd set that up after reading it on a Soarer forum (Google search) and with your suggestion too.

Not sure if previous efforts had loosened it...but it was a piece of ####

Wasted too much time on one bolt. Now to see if the pulley will come off without a special puller

Edit: Nope...just slid off

[Sylux]

Vince, do you remove the cam pulleys? Would really like to get them off.

Do they have a spline so I don't end up messing the timing? Everything is nicely marked and lined up. Left cam springs back now the belt's off but I know the right position (it still hold it). But if there's no spline I'll be goosed.

Cheers

[BUSHWHACKER]

Vince, do you remove the cam pulleys? Would really like to get them off.

Do they have a spline so I don't end up messing the timing? Everything is nicely marked and lined up. Left cam springs back now the belt's off but I know the right position (it still hold it). But if there's no spline I'll be goosed.

Cheers

Nope, never taken them off as I've never needed to.
Why do you need to take them off? They can't be seen once all the distributors and covers are back on.

[Sylux]

True. I just wanted to get to all the places I need for spraying the block.

If you haven't taken them off...I'm not going to. Who's going to help me then when it all goes wrong!

Just realised the crank bolt needs 181ft/lb to do up. My wrench goes to 150ft/lbs

[Sylux]

The plates behind them need to come off so I can clean up. Only way is with cam pulleys removed.

Can't see it being a problem

[Sylux]

So the alternator on this one is caked in PS fluid...so I dismantled to do a proper clean. Needed to as it was drenched in shite.

Very interesting and everything was going fine. Was.

The plastic collar on the slip ring has disintegrated

Looking at schematics and the catalogue for this part seems to suggest it's a part that isn't nicely available in itself. Well of fecking course it's not!

It's part of the actual rotor assembly.

27330 in this pic.

It's not a separate item in this list and the rotor is more than picking up a replacement

I'm asking around various places but thought I'd ask here, too. Slip rings cost about £6 when they're on their own.



Everything is cleaning up bit by bit though

Shame the stator won't come out now I have it apart. Would make painting it a doddle.

[Sylux]

Think I've found a supplier. Could be a few quid

[Sylux]

Had the block on the drive giving it a power wash.

Doesn't feel like much changed. Not a fan of TFR. Don't think it's good for the alloy (or mine isn't) as I did soap and water vs tfr tests and only the tfr clean parts fluffed up with corrosion chalk after drying.

Anyways...decided to have a go with some wire attachments for the drill (I've had them lying around for ages). Will buy brass ones but they make light work of cleaning Shiny

Vince: some of the gloop edges on the bottom cover (large oil pan) got blasted off with the power washer. Will the seal still be ok? It hasn't pulled anything out...just the messy gloop clean off.

Also...all the kits of gaskets etc (inc timing belt ones), that I'm watching, are all minus one kind of gasket. The 4 that go with the coolant bypasses/bridges. But the ones that include these have other parts missing (and sealant included that has me worried they're not decent gaskets with the seal built in). So I'm on the hunt for these.

Sorry no pics...I'll upload some in asap.

[Sylux]

Ha! Got the stator out of the alternator! Easy peasy Bake it and tap it out.

I won't be taking apart the other one, like...but worth the tinker

[Sylux]

As I'm slowly progressing through the cleaning phase of this project...I'm constantly thinking about the air intake conundrum.

I really want to keep the Surf's filter box (left side) for when I get a snorkel. But I think these conversions look far neater with the air intake in place of the right side battery. Not a fan of the ducting over the engine bay.

I've seen conversions where the plenum has been flipped...but that's a chew-on I don't want (would be the solution, like).

Another solution is to have a right side snorkel set up (if poss) but that would entail moving electrics.

Anyway...just thinking out loud. Need stuff to crack on and payday is a few days off...so bored!