@The Professor

[GBV8]

Having a bit of a problem starting #7 at the moment.
Quick overview of whats happening and what I've noticed. I've been reading up on Lextreme as I'm keen to learn but thought I'd run it past you or someone else who is reading this and knows what they are talking about.

Fires up then instantly dies.
Fuel pump then runs for a lot longer priming than usual before light on dash comes back on once pump stops.

In the engine bay this is what I noticed.
Fuel pressure dampener screw shoots up and there is a load of hissing coming from it right after someone else has tried to start it for me.

Up until this there hasn't been a problem with starting although I have been messing about with the restriction in the hose to the ISCV.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Have you checked for any codes?
I'm chasing the exact same problem with number 8 at the moment. Fires, dies then hard to re-start unless left for a couple of minutes then smell of fuel and wet sparkplugs.
I've had noid light on the injector plugs and noticed they stop pulsing just before the engine dies, so it's an electrical fault somewhere.
I'll be investigating further tomorrow and keep you updated.

[GBV8]

No codes Vince.
Only an hour before this happened the truck had been running fine.
What is it that's keeping the fuel pump running for so long after trying to start it (looks into his crystal ball)?

[Bazcam]

I think Vince said he runs the fuel pump off two relays, 1 triggered
off the cranking signal, the other off the oil pressure light.
If you've been cranking the engine without starting, or it runs briefly, oil pressure will build up and the pump will run till the pressure drops, would'nt have thought it would be more than a couple of seconds though after the
engine cuts out.


How long does the pump run on for? If it runs after the oil pressure light
comes on, you might have a problem with the relays.

[GBV8]

The pump usually runs for just a couple of seconds but with this new problem it is running between 10-15 secs after a failed start. Once it stops the oil pressure light comes back on.

Vince, on the fuel line that runs from the FPR to the small diameter metal pipe, should this line be filled with fuel when the engine is not running? When I disconnect it there is only a trickle of petrol in it.
When the pump is running after a failed start I can hear air bubbling through this line..............if you know what I mean
On the fuel damper side, air is also ####ing out the screw.
I'll have to get an adult to look at.

[BUSHWHACKER]

The fuel return line should only have fuel in it when the engine is running. The fuel pressure regulator is basically vacuum controlled (small dia. rubber pipe going to the rear of the inlet plenum) so it will shut the return flow when the engine is off to maintain pressure in the fuel rails.

The fuel pump only runs when there is oil pressure i.e. engine is running.
It also runs when cranking to make sure fuel is delivered to the injectors, then the relay switches over to constant running when engine starts. (Oil light goes out)

Remove one of the sparkplugs and see if it's wet with fuel after you've tried to start the engine.
Also, disconnect the return fuel hose from the hard line under the fuel filter and run it into a jar or suitable container with some rags around/under it in case of splashes, then crank the engine over to see if fuel comes out.

I'll get back to you later......

[GBV8]

Vince, I removed a spark plug today after starting (trying too) and it was wet and as black as your boot. I removed them all and they were the same. They actually looked a bit oily too or is this soot and petrol?

Fuel is flying out the return hose when trying to start and also after it dies.
I kept an eye on the Spa pressure gauge and whenever the engine stalls it's taking approx 10secs to reach zero. Pump is going the whole time until it hits zero and the light comes back on.

Couple of other questions.

If the ISCV is diconnected does a code flash up?

Where the ECU box is, there is a wire marked 'HB'?? (It's blue & black with a pink dash). Another wire looked to be wrapped around it but has come away and slid down the insulation from under the tape. Mean anything?

Also a wire marked 'ECT' was taped to another wire which has a loose end, stripped as if to be joined?? I know some wires aren't used but they always seem to be cleanly cut near the plugs.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Hi Gary, appologies for not replying sooner, having a feckin' nightmare with number 8.

Vince, I removed a spark plug today after starting (trying too) and it was wet and as black as your boot. I removed them all and they were the same. They actually looked a bit oily too or is this soot and petrol?

Fuel is flying out the return hose when trying to start and also after it dies.
I kept an eye on the Spa pressure gauge and whenever the engine stalls it's taking approx 10secs to reach zero. Pump is going the whole time until it hits zero and the light comes back on.

Couple of other questions.

If the ISCV is diconnected does a code flash up?
I don't think it does, but I do know the engines can run without an IACV, just doesn't idle very well when cold.
List of codes here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html
Where the ECU box is, there is a wire marked 'HB'?? (It's blue & black with a pink dash). Another wire looked to be wrapped around it but has come away and slid down the insulation from under the tape. Mean anything?
That sounds like the +B wire, it should be connected to pin 87 on the relay marked with a 'M'. Re-attach it and the engine should run properly again.

Also a wire marked 'ECT' was taped to another wire which has a loose end, stripped as if to be joined?? I know some wires aren't used but they always seem to be cleanly cut near the plugs.

I don't bother connecting the ECT wire as it's not really needed plus you'll save fuel!

[GBV8]

@ Vince

Vince, what does the M mean thats stuck on the relay beside the fuses?

[BUSHWHACKER]

'M' for main power (switches on the ECU & ignition)
'S' for the starter motor.
'F' for fuel pump.

[GBV8]

Cheers mate. Had a problem with starting the truck but it turned out to be a dodgy FP relay. All sorted now, but.............I noticed a yellow wire which was marked 'speedo' coming off the first ECU plug but going nowhere. I'm not to sure if I have pulled it from a connection when I took the ECU housing out to get at the FP relay. Should it be joined or spliced to something?

Can you point me in the direction of a diagram which shows the coolant hoses for the 1uz? I have coolant leaking somewhere near the front. Drips onto the ac compressor then the steering damper. I have check all the hoses etc you can see but I'm now thinking is it coming from the water pump seal? Although I still get some coolant dripping off the fly wheel area. All the heater hoses at the rear of the engine are tight.