1uzfe into 2.4TD surf

[hiroler]

what has caused the price to jump up so much it is strange there does seem to be a few about but not much under £600!!!

[dannyboy77]

We can see you when it's all done -

will be out off roading as much as possible when done you will probably hear it! low 1st & 2nd grunt!

hiroler the whole of the 2nd car market has gone back up dont know if the car scrappage scheme has anything to do with it?

[dannyboy77]

just a quick update and some problems to over come when fitting the engine (im sure Bushwhacker will say im not doing it right!?!?)

belowis pic of the engine in but can see its still at an angle even though i have raised the bracket the TC sits on by 50mm so i have to get the engine lower and have come to a few problems but have a couple of solutions to over come it



as can see the level the engine is now the flange of the left bank exhaust is hitting the torsion bar due the the right being tight to the steering arm

if in america would get the tundra exhaust flanges (the V8 hilux toyota only brought out in america???) but at £300 a pair think may mod them my self?!?

if the triangle flange was roatated then it would fit but cant really do that so thinking of putting flex further up the pipe to manouver around the torsion bar??





the steering arm is stopping the engine going any further right so have to lower the engine even more than it is now



can see that the left exhaust is right next to TB and the right (below) is away from the TB suggesting engine not central so to get it central needs to go down to miss steering arm and be moved to the right



with the engine having to go down further need to relocate the oil pick up and the steering damper. hence going to get a sump fabricated to go over the steering arm and damper.



the mounts for the engine should be straight forward as can use the surf mounts as they contain the rubber insulation and fab a piece to bolt to the top of the surf mount to the V8 engine

[hiroler]

that looks a tight fit!! did you need to do the lift to fit it in? looking good though looks like its progressing nicely

[dannyboy77]

yeah it fits nicer with lift as you can see from the pic with the engine in it sits high at the front of the engine bay and need the body lift hight to fit it in so sump not on steering damper etc. yeah just at the measuring up for fabrication stage so its a bit of trial and error to get everything to fit!

[RodLeach]

I know bushwhackers truck has a modified bonnet..

Was it done out of nesessity?!

Looks very tight around the torsion bars..








Could always hack it all off an fit a 4 link coil spring sus set up!


Anyway! Best of luck with it mate.. nice to see it being undertaken again!!

[BUSHWHACKER]

yeah it fits nicer with lift as you can see from the pic with the engine in it sits high at the front of the engine bay and need the body lift hight to fit it in so sump not on steering damper etc. yeah just at the measuring up for fabrication stage so its a bit of trial and error to get everything to fit!

It looks to me that the engine isn't sitting back far enough.
The driver's side valve cover on mine is only about 18mm away from the brake servo, and I had to cut the corner off the black, plastic resonator chamber on the inlet, thats why the handbrake pulley assembly needs to be relocated the cabin side of the bulkhead.
You should have left the sump on and placed blocks of wood on to diff to space the sump away from the relay rod. Don't forget the relay rod raises slightly when steering from lock to lock, so allow for this also.
The same with the transmission/transfer box, I lifted the whole assembly up on a trolley jack and block of wood untill almost touching the tunnel, checked to position of the gear levers then measured for the mount.



I removed my steering damper because I could see that it would need a bracket fabricated to lower it. I still haven't fitted it yet as the front of the truck is now much lighter and I'm only running 31"/10.5/15" AT tyres, plus the steering feels no different than it was originally..


I modified my bonnet to let some heat out , but a stock bonnet will still fit with plenty of clearance.
I'm going to return to my bonnet to original and cut a couple of vents into it instead.

[dannyboy77]

the TC lines up with the circular hole. does the TC need to sit further back than it did originally. i know the bell housing of the UZ is slightly deeper than the surf so it will push the engine further forward but have body massaged the passenger side of the fire wall around where the heating unit kicks out. it is also sitting slightly to the passenger side as the exhaust manifold is tight next to the steering arm. it looks like the engine needs to sit lower to be able to move towards the drivers side but the exhaust flange are hitting the torsion bar. i have take the oil pick up off so can get it lower and the should line up. i feel i may cut the hole off the exhaust flange nearest the torsion bar and put a new hole in there seems to be enough meat on the flange.????

[hiroler]

im no expert but would a big V8 like that not "jump or shift" on the mounts when you rev. so do you not leave a fair bit of clerance to allow for movement of the engine under load??

[BUSHWHACKER]

im no expert but would a big V8 like that not "jump or shift" on the mounts when you rev. so do you not leave a fair bit of clerance to allow for movement of the engine under load??

The Surf's mounts were designed for an engine twice the weight of the 1UZ.
These engines are so smooth, some guys have been using solid mounts in their conversions. Ever seen the 50p coin standing on edge while the V-8 is revved up to the red line, video?

[BUSHWHACKER]

the TC lines up with the circular hole. does the TC need to sit further back than it did originally.

Yes, about 40mm
i know the bell housing of the UZ is slightly deeper than the surf so it will push the engine further forward but have body massaged the passenger side of the fire wall around where the heating unit kicks out. it is also sitting slightly to the passenger side as the exhaust manifold is tight next to the steering arm.
Remove that plastic cover of the steering column.
it looks like the engine needs to sit lower to be able to move towards the drivers side but the exhaust flange are hitting the torsion bar. i have take the oil pick up off so can get it lower and the should line up. i feel i may cut the hole off the exhaust flange nearest the torsion bar and put a new hole in there seems to be enough meat on the flange.????

The engine needs to be central to the engine bay, I measured from the centre of the crank pulley and the output flange on the transfer case, to both sides of the truck to make sure it was all centralised.

I never touched the exhaust manifold flanges, just kept of jigging the engine around and countless measurements to get it right without causing un-necessary extra work .


p.s. Don't read too much into the other conversions on Lextreme, those guys do seem to over complicate things for themselves causing un-necessary problems later on. Allways think one or even two steps ahead of what you're doing at the time with this installation and it'll all work out.

[dannyboy77]

engine is in i think! well ready to measure up for the mounts got it as square as i can the only thing is it is pointing about 5 degrees max up and dont know if that will effect the EFI, oil and water circulation?? any comments?

as you can see i have raised the the back end (mounting for the TC) up by about 55mm and the sump is as close to the steering as possible about 10mm max. there is enough room between each exhaust flange and the torsion bar now so think it is about there



















Bushwhacker is your engine angling up also?

P.S. thanks Rod!

[BUSHWHACKER]

Looking good, about the same position as mine.
My engine sits ever so slightly high at the front, but not too high to worry about oil pickup from the sump. You couldn't tell unless a spirit level was involved.
Trial fit the rad now to make sure it'll go in.

There is one major part of the install I can see that you haven't done though, and that is the engine bay, it's still MINGING!!

[dannyboy77]

yeah i put a level on it and over the length of the air inlet it was about 1inch?

have you put the cats on? i think i have due to age of the engine hope fit passed the TB if not need an infill piece.

yeah will get around to cleaning the engine bay when take engine and loom out. also have gunk to clean the engine and the GB

i havent fitted the oil relocation kit on yet but it seems very close to the chassis did you use the pipes or did you get 90 elbows etc???

will be taking the rad down tonight to make sure it fits. still have the 2 fans for the air con and the electrics in place could use them as puller fans??

[BUSHWHACKER]

yeah i put a level on it and over the length of the air inlet it was about 1inch?

Yeah, thats about right.
have you put the cats on? i think i have due to age of the engine hope fit passed the TB if not need an infill piece.
Nope, no cats needed. The MOT 'allows' for conversions, mine still passed the emmisions test.

yeah will get around to cleaning the engine bay when take engine and loom out. also have gunk to clean the engine and the GB

i havent fitted the oil relocation kit on yet but it seems very close to the chassis did you use the pipes or did you get 90 elbows etc???
I can't remember, I'll post a photo on here later. I just used everything that was in the kit.plus an extra threaded nipple as I pointed out in the UZSwap link.
will be taking the rad down tonight to make sure it fits. still have the 2 fans for the air con and the electrics in place could use them as puller fans??

I don't think they'll pull enough air through the radiator unless you make a shroud. I've got a 16" pusher fan that covers almost all of the rad, seems to work OK.