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  • Manual boost controler

    Hi all, can anyone point me in the right direction for where to install a manual boost controller? I've fitted a boost gauge without any problems but the turbo itself is quite buried on the kzn130.
    I know it needs to be between the wastegate actuator and the intake, but I'm teaching myself as I go along and was hoping it could could be done without lots of investigative disasembling! Thanks
    I've looked at the Aussie forum and that seems to just have pictures for the 2.4

  • #2
    I can only comment for the 185 but you just need to find the tube that comes out of the turbo and goes into the wastegate. Its probably going to be about 10mm wide by 3-4 inches long with a couple of bends in it and have a couple of spring clips on it each end. Not the oil pipes or the air pipes, there are not many more to choose from when you get to looking at it.
    You'll need to remove the main air hose over the top to see it and a pair of long 45 degree needlenose pliers was the tool to get at the spring clips.

    I found 6mm silicone hose will go over the turbo and wastegate nipples with a little help from an oiled nipple and the pliers again. Unless you have piano players hands you'll really need the pliers.

    I was hovering on 9psi and it felt sluggish. It now sings along at 13 with no increase in egt and the ability to just GO from 60mph. No more kick down to three. it sticks in overdrive and just motors.

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    • #3
      Ok, thanks for the advice, now I know to delve down there. I take it lengthening this hose is ok, in order to access the controler once fitted.
      The pressure in mine is around stock (that's what I remember from testing it a few days ago) so I'm looking for a little more because it can be sluggish with a lot of revs going uphill.
      I'll stick a photo up when it's done. Thanks again mate.

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      • #4
        yes you can lengthen these hose runs. I mounted mine between the heater matrix pipes as they run past the turbo. you'll want to stay just clear of 14psi as that is the ECU overboost cut off.

        edit: what type of controller do you have?
        Last edited by Lewd Lux Lover; 16 September 2015, 23:12.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mr Malleenos View Post
          Ok, thanks for the advice, now I know to delve down there. I take it lengthening this hose is ok, i........
          only to a point. if its to long you will get big boost spikes. try and keep it fairly short. i would say extending it to the top of firewall would be to long.

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          • #6
            http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBO-MANU...item33590834bd

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            • #7
              Yep, that'll do the job nicely.

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              • #8
                +1

                ball and spring MBC is what you want.
                just watch your boost, i would recommend boost cut defender so you don't hit the over boost cut out.
                ball and spring can spike a bit which can trip the over boost if you have it set close to the cut out setting (15lbs i think it is).

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                • #9
                  So I got 'round to fitting the boost controler - fiddly and even had to drain the coolant. After winding it in a bit she boosts just over 10 but only when way in the red. The hose is about 10" each side of the controler. Unfortunately I can't go for a spin as I have no MOT yet but there is definitely more boost!

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                  • #10
                    That hose length is fine. Lots of liner guys mount them in the cab through the firewall for instant boooost so no worries there.
                    I do wonder at you having to take it up past 3k to get max boost though. You 'should' come onto boost a bit before 2k if you boot it. Soon as you go over 3k the ECU doesn't have a map for the engine apparently and just lets it go un managed so all work should be done below that rpm apparently (research from Aus forums)

                    Give it a drive and see how it levels out. Do you have any spiking over 1psi before it settles down? I have been going by the Cummins diesel advice of hitting 600f and 6psi at 60mph. Thats apparently a real sweet spot for longevity. Get an EGT sensor fitted, your whole driving style will change over night

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                    • #11
                      Soon as you go over 3k the ECU doesn't have a map for the engine apparently and just lets it go un managed so all work should be done below that rpm apparently (research from Aus forums)
                      So if it goes over 11 or 12 after 3000 revs it doesn't matter and the engine wont go into "limp" mode? maybe....
                      I'll look again today but boost is coming in quite late. Any fix for that?
                      Like I said, the truck is off the road so I can't take her up tp 60 just yet.
                      How does measuring exhaust temp help?
                      Think I need to browse the aussie forum again but apparently they have no ecu restriction on their boost and can do what they like!

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                      • #12
                        600f and 6psi at 60mph
                        what is the 600f? temperature?

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                        • #13
                          I'll replace the short pipes either side of the T for the gauge near the sensor to see if that helps anyway

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                          • #14
                            The ecu will still have its 14psi boost cut. Thats a set value. What it doesn't have past 3k is a fuel map. At that point it just lets the engine go for broke. It has no way of controlling whats going on so just pumps fuel in whatever the perameters. Seems toyota/denso couldn't see a reason to run the engine over 3k. I have to agree with them to be honest. Low reving high torque are the things I wouyld want from a 4x4 engine.
                            EGT's go mad and you are basically burning fuel for no go.
                            Or so my research and experience shows.

                            The spring in the controller could be a little stiff/soft and require a little too much/not enough pressure to activate? Ask the seller if they have a PSI value set on the springs and if they can send you a stiffer/softer one?

                            Yes 600 degrees fahrenheit. about 315c. So you are aiming for 315celceus and 6psi of boost at 60 mph. Thats a sweet spot for diesels according to cummins and they do make diesel power quite well. I normally get more like 350c and 5psi at 60mph but I am going to get it tuned soon and hope to get that a bit more even.

                            Soon as you get an EGT gauge installed your whole driving style changes. You research the 'healthy' temperatures and research what excess heat does to diesels and thats it. You drive to the gauge.
                            I have mine mounted above the turbo in the manifold and I really try to never go over 500c in normal driving if I can help it. Driving on the Motorway depends on incline etc but I see anything from 400c down to 230 sometimes. I have an alarm set for 700c but a ferw seconds at 600-660 to get onto the motorway etc is fine.. You also begin to realise how easy it is to just burn fuel with no more forward motion.
                            Temps are a direct relation to engine load and the best way to see what is going on inside the cylinders as you are tooling along. That and a boost guage are what all the aussies put in to monitor engine load.

                            I went a little further as my truck will be in the care of the missis when its under most load (towing horses) so all the really important things (ATF temp, water temp, EGTs and boost) are alarmed. She loves it
                            Last edited by Lewd Lux Lover; 24 September 2015, 15:38.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for all the info! I did read somewhere that sometimes people simpley remove the ball and spring, I could see what that does. I never rev into the red anyway, this is the most I've ever revved her - to check I'm not putting in too much pressure. It could be that boost pressure comes in earlier when driving because of everything being under load. Just a guess though.

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