Engine cut out - Engine speed sensor seepage

[shawthorn]

Hi, I feel bad as I only visit when I have a problem...

Anyway, I am in Morocco so don't have anyone who knows anything to ask.

So, here goes...

1996 KZN185 230k Kms, No mods.

Sunday changed oil.
Monday School Run – Started ok, drove about 1km, and cut out, as if ignition turned off, no chugging. Restarted and ran another 200m and died again. Restarted once died after 2 mins idling.
I checked the forum and have done the following.

Recharged the battery. Checked for obvious disconnects around the area of the fuel pump. Nothing found.
Replaced battery and restarted engine which ran for five minutes with no problem until I turned it off.

Fault codes. Followed the E1 – TE1 connection and on ignition switch have rapid alternate flashing of engine and O/D light four times then nothing. Visual inspection around fuel pump indicates fuel seepage around the base of the Engine Speed Sensor.

So the questions are
Do the fault codes indicate no logged fault? Or, could log fault have been cleared by removing the battery?
Would a leaky engine speed sensor, trigger some cut off somewhere?
Is it as ‘simple’ as replacing the O rings on the engine speed sensor?
Can the lid be taken off with the fuel pump in situ?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Steve.

[shawthorn]

Update

Went to restart the car today and the battery (which was recharged 4 days ago) was weak and very quickly dead.

So 839 Dirhams (60 quid later) new battery installed and engine runs fine.

But surely this is not the end.

Would a weak battery induce a stall, I thought diesels once running would run without the battery.

Any views appreciated...

[Jazzy G]

Hi there,

Not sure about the fault codes.

I have had a leaking fuel pump for a few months now and not had any engine cut outs and as you said it should 'chug' a bit before dying. I believe the orings on the top of the pump can be changed in situ.

Check that the alternator is ok as this would explain flat batteries and engine cut outs.

[stormforce]

If you got dual batteries then 1 dud battery will drag the other one down with it.You may end up buying a new 2nd battery

[shawthorn]

Alternator Check

Only one battery installed

New battery installed reading 12.76v
Running idle (not idle up) no lights etc 13.33v
Running @ 1500 lights, radio, fan on 13.24v

This is a little less than the post on the electrical discussion on this site which recommends a 14.4v.... enough to worry about?

[charvell]

Only one battery installed

New battery installed reading 12.76v
Running idle (not idle up) no lights etc 13.33v
Running @ 1500 lights, radio, fan on 13.24v

This is a little less than the post on the electrical discussion on this site which recommends a 14.4v.... enough to worry about?

that is low. not sure why that would cause the ruck to cut out. have you checked that you have no dislodged anything whilst doing the oil change.

[Diezel Weazel]

that is low. not sure why that would cause the ruck to cut out. have you checked that you have no dislodged anything whilst doing the oil change.

I'll 2nd what Colin says
CB's are generally expected to operate between 13.8 - 14.2

13+ Years of Surfs ..... n Faultless to a "T" is my Yota !!

[shawthorn]

Low Charge Rate

Thanks for your feedback,

I ran it yesterday and tried to recreate the cut out by wiggling connections around the fuel pump but nothing happened.

I'll recheck the charge numbers today.

I suppose the other thing is to check the belt and any alternator connections.

Other than that is it a question of reconditioning/changing the alternator?

Presumably the situation will worsen over time with the charge rate gradually dropping?

[Jazzy G]

Check what ampage is being drawn between battery and alt. At idle with no load then forced load and a bit of revs. There should be a significant increase.

[shawthorn]

Update - Reading DTCs

Guys, thanks for your feedback. I changed the battery and it seemed better, but my better half was driving across town when it died again. There seems to be no pattern to it...warm or cold, dry or wet conditions. Bumpy road, smooth road.

No warning, just died.

I went this morning to read the DTCs. This is what happens. TE1-E1 connected. Ignition on.

Engine check and O/D light flash intermittently up to at least 60 fast flashes then I gave up counting.

Second time flashing between Engine check light and O/D light and lots of apparently random clicking behind the passenger side air bag.

Third time back to engine check and O/D light fast intermittent flashing.

I have checked out a few Toyota fault code vids on youtube for other Toyotas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxks7yRV6Uw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_YhNmIVcbA

So they only have engine check light and the flashing is slower and easy to count. Mine is pretty fast.

So questions...
Does rapid flashing mean ...all ok or ECU screwed?
Clicking in area of passenger side dash board...is this likely to be an ECU problem or is there a relay there somewhere.

Any help much appreciated...I plan to video the flashing lights and post here if possible.

Thanks

[shawthorn]

Update

Well it looks like I'm answering my own questions here.

Rapidly flashing light engine check light 'suggests no DTC' is what I read last night. Nobody mentions Engine check light and O/D light flashing intermittently.

Could there be an intermittent ECU fault...

Next question...where can I get another ECU if I need it?

[yorta2]

I don't think you have mentioned if your car is an manual or auto transmission vehicle, but I think there are a few ecu's on the UK eBay site, and one might suit. Whether they are any good is a risk you often have to take, but they can be repaired, and if it was me, and I was stuck in the boondocks, I'd ask the seller and take a risk.

[shawthorn]

Update

Cheers,

It is KZN185 3.0 litre automatic SSR-X.
I have been back to it today and tried to start it but despite having a charged battery it wouldn't even crank.

All in all, it's behaviour is erratic. I tested the Timing Control Valve and the and water temperature sensor, both of which gave completely different readings to what the 1KZ-TE manual says.

So we have 'trucked' it to the local Toyota dealership and we'll see what their diagnostic process says...........can't wait.

[shawthorn]

Ecu

Well according to Toyota main dealer in Fez, there was a short somewhere in the cabling under the dash, but it is the ECU which is faulty...(should there be a test report available?)

Anyone got one for sale?? KZN 185, 3 gen 3.0 litre automatic, SSR X ECU.

I will return to the UK for Christmas and will post the existing to ECU doctor (who is closed until new year I think), but if you have one for sale let me know..

Happy Christmas !!!

[stormforce]

Give Terry a ring to see if he has a ecu for a 3rd gen.His details are in the advertising box on the right of the banner