Stopped dead!

[JD_975]

Been out for a day of Green laning with a local club today and had a bit of a disaster, did 3 or 4 light lanes no problem, all was going well until between lanes the truck just cut out whilst driving and wouldnt re-start, no warning, no spluttering, no engine check light it just stopped dead, did some basic checks with the limited tools I had and found I had fuel up to the pump but no fuel coming out, had to be towed back home again

Just back now and thought I`d give the trouble codes a quick check, bridged E1 and TE1, ignition on and all I get are 4 quick flashes of the OD light then it goes out, I`m guessing that means no trouble codes? It`s cold and dark now and I`m pretty fed up so I`ve given up for the night.

Has anyone had anything like this happen to them? At the minute it looks like the pump but to just give up all of a sudden doesnt seem to make sense, I run 50/50 veg oil/diesel but it`s never so much as spluttered on it previously, and got fuel coming out the filter no probs if you press the priming pump?

[JD_975]

Just been back out as in my haste previously I never thought the immobiliser might be affecting the read out, now rechecked and I have OD light flashing constant, engine check light flashing twice, small gap and twice more, long gap start again.

It seems the code refers to a coolant temp sensor fault but would that really stop the truck dead?

This may be a coincidence but I also now have a light on my dash that has never worked before, it says AT/P in red letters, guessing it means auto transmission in park as it goes off if you move the selector but it`s the first time it`s ever been on since I`ve owned the truck

[JD_975]

Can I get a bit of advise on this please, got the truck towed into work now so I can do some checks in the light. I have done some searching on the forum and suspected a possible spill valve fault, removed the valve today and found I have fuel upto it but no fuel to the injectors so guessing that is my issue however with the valve removed you can hear a light clicking from it if you connect and disconnect the wiring plug, found a thread saying the valve works between 3 and 5 volts but I am only getting 1.8 at the plug so it thrown me a little.

Can anyone advise me further on this before I spend any cash on it?

Thanks

[TonyN]

At/p means the t/case is in neutral.

The SCV could be blIckes, even though it's clicking.

Low voltage to the SCV is usually a ECU issue, but check the wiring and plug first.

[JD_975]

Thanks Tony, that makes sense as to why I've never seen that light before now then lol.

Will check the wiring back to the ECU tomorrow.

Could a kind member do me a favour and check the voltage at the SCV on there own truck so I can compare?

Thrifty...

[johnsiddle]

When my truck decided to play up with no fuel coming out of the injectors the pump was the problem.

If you have the spill valve out carefully pull the plunger part out and clean the very small fuel holes with a fine bit of wire and an airline.
The plunger is crimped in but will pull out if you are careful. There is a tiny hole that gets blocked.

Also check the thimble filter behind the fuel temp sensor, it is very small and easily damaged and blocks up easily. I remove it with a small tyrap head with a bit of tyrap pushed in to make a small barb. There is a very small crinkle washer with this filter, look out for it, it is easily lost.
John

[johnsiddle]

You can download a manual from this link which explains the voltages and error codes.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1KZ-TE%20...-TE/index.html

John

PS:
my OD light started flashing a little while ago when I was experiencing a gunged up Injector pump. I stripped the pump down and gave it a good clean and things are not bad at present ( do get the engine light on at tickover but that codes out to an iffy Timing Control Valve).
But I also have an old ECU that flashes the OD light all the time with a great reduction of power.
This ECU is obviously faulty because connecting a replacment ECU instantly cured the problem.

[JD_975]

Thanks for the advise John, I bit the bullet and ordered a new spill valve.

Arrived today, I set the adjuster to the same height as the old one and fitted it and the truck has fired straight up, seems to be running well but I`ve not had it out for a proper drive yet.

I will have a mess with the old valve it would be nice to know exactly what has happened.

[johnsiddle]

Thanks for the advise John, I bit the bullet and ordered a new spill valve.

Arrived today, I set the adjuster to the same height as the old one and fitted it and the truck has fired straight up, seems to be running well but I`ve not had it out for a proper drive yet.

I will have a mess with the old valve it would be nice to know exactly what has happened.

Glad you are sorted.
How much did the new valve cost???

[JD_975]

Was £130, I found the part number on here with some searching.

Had a tinker last night as had a light diesel knock, wound the adjustment clockwise a little and it seems to have gone off, no black smoke and truck is pulling like a train

[johnsiddle]

Was £130, I found the part number on here with some searching.

Had a tinker last night as had a light diesel knock, wound the adjustment clockwise a little and it seems to have gone off, no black smoke and truck is pulling like a train

Ouch!!!!
where is this adjustment you made, I dont know of an adjustment on the spill valve.
john

[JD_975]

On the top of the valve, where the black rubber bit is, there is a metal thimble like cap, it twists off with a pair of mole grips and there is a small adjusting screw on the top with a 10mm locknut

[JD_975]

And yes Ouch!! I dont want to be buying too many of those lol

[johnsiddle]

On the top of the valve, where the black rubber bit is, there is a metal thimble like cap, it twists off with a pair of mole grips and there is a small adjusting screw on the top with a 10mm locknut

Thanks I hadn't noticed that or if I did I didn't know what it was for so left it alone, is it mentioned anywhere as a timing screw???
John

[JD_975]

I`m sure someone more knowledgeable will correct me, this is only my limited understanding of how the valve works.

Mechanical Spill valves of old controlled the amount of fuel that was allowed to "spill" into the high pressure side of the pump, the pumps had elongated holes on the mounting points which allowed you to turn the pump to fine tune the "spill timing" similar idea to that of an old distributer on a petrol engine which you could turn to adjust ignition timing.

The electronic type of valve fitted to a surf lives on the high pressure side of the fuel distribution block, it appears that it is capable of altering both spill timing and quantity i.e. how much fuel is allowed through and at what stage (timing) dependant on signals from the engine ecu, the engine ecu signal is an odd one too, it seems to supply the valve with a full 12V to one side and alter the voltage on the other terminal between 12V (0V differential) and 6V (6V differential) thus the valve operates between 0-6V, my best guess for this is that the current available to operate the solenoid is higher by reducing the voltage on one side as opposed to having one side of the solenoid earthed and varying the voltage on the other between 0 and 6V, also found you must check the voltage between the two terminals of the connector to the actual valve and not to earth otherwise the readings make no sense at all, the positive side comes in at +12, the switching side reads as a PWM (pulse width modulation) signal. The valve also takes over the duty of the start/stop solenoid found on earlier diesel engines.

Given what the information I gleaned from my internet searching (which as I say may all be wrong!) coupled with my knowledge of common rail diesels suggests, the actual electrical part of the valve is nothing more than a solenoid, normally a solenoid is either on or off (plunger up or down), however with a PWM signal a solenoid can be anywhere in between on or off, thus controlling fueling and timing. If that is correct then the adjustment screw cant be a lot more than merely a preload on the solenoid return spring, the preload would dictate how fast the valve could shut which would determine injection quantity.

My old valve does click when a voltage is passed across it, which would suggest the electrical solenoid is working and your theory about a blockage in the mechanics is correct, I`ll never get the time so if you want the old one to mess with it`s yours for the price of the postage