Brake line help please

[Fricfrac]

Just fitted new front bearings,discs,flexis,short pipe and calipers to the 4Runner. Everything was fairly straightforward.Bled it all up and tested it, rock solid pedal, job done methinks.

Anyway, gets half way home from my mates garage and the pedal starts going spongy. Gets home, no leaks from the front. It has developed a leak at the rear, the hyd oil runs along the top of the diesel tank above the rear axle and drips from there.Suppose the increase pressure from the new stuff sprung the leak at the back. My question is, to the clever people on here, is that a flexi up there,straight pipe or a union?

Taking it back tomorrow and a little advice could speed things along. It also looks, from an initial look, a right bugger to get at, any tips would be helpful.

Thanks in advance.

[Fricfrac]

Sorted and working.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Blimey, it appears my telepathic powers do work!

[Fricfrac]

Blimey, it appears my telepathic powers do work!

Well, it needed sorting so it got sorted, your telepathy was an amazing help...................

[Wolfracer]

Sorted and working.

Thanks for sharing the info bud...

[Fricfrac]

I'll do a small write up when my hands and fingers heal......

[Fricfrac]

Got the car up in the air and found where the oil was leaking onto the chassis, had a good feel around to get a jist of what was where. Removed underslung spare to get better access before getting mucky. The brake pipes (there are two from front to back) run from the unions situated just inside the drivers front wheel arch, they then run all the way down the chassis between the rail and the fuel tank, before coming up the rear chassis at the rear o/s wheel arch. They then go through the chassis, up and over it before bending in three degree turns and finishing at the brake compensator.

Mine had the original, well we think so, steel brake lines. These were badly corroded, so rather than replace bits of the line, and because we thought it would be easier, we removed the lot. The pipes are clipped to the chassis at various points, some of the clips gave easy, some were beyond redemption.

The pipes were replaced with copper/nickel piping, rather than have such a long run, we decided to reroute the pipes and joint them at an appropriate place. The new lines followed the chassis, as per the originals, to the fuel tank. We then ran them around the tank and down the middle of the car.There is no room to refit where they originally were unless you drop the tank. The new pipes were secured to the tank and now go up over the chassis and follow the contour of the bottom of the shell where the rear axle is, plenty of secure fastenings to keep them away from danger and then attach to the compensator, which, if your lucky wont be a right bitch to bleed through and may actually work. Mine didn`t, we could not get fluid to the rear drums.

The problem was overcome with a bit of ingenuity though......................

[Albannach]

Here's a thing I found out when I was 16. If the pipes on the LSPV are fitted the wrong way round, the back brakes won't work (bleed).

Maybe worth checking?

In fact, given that I've been up for 22 hours and I'm now ####ed, check them. No maybe's about it...

[Fricfrac]

Here's a thing I found out when I was 16. If the pipes on the LSPV are fitted the wrong way round, the back brakes won't work (bleed).

Maybe worth checking?

In fact, given that I've been up for 22 hours and I'm now ####ed, check them. No maybe's about it...

I replaced one pipe at a time so that I wouldn`t be able to do that mate.

Good shout all the same.