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**TonyN** · 1 February 2010, 22:58

sounds like you've got to much crap in the tank if that filter is blocked. Are you using veg?

if you've put 12v across the spill control valve you may have fried it, it runs on less volts than that.

best to try it out of the pump, and plugged in then get someone to turn ignition on and you should feel/hear it move internally.

it could be blocked as well

**johnsiddle** · 1 February 2010, 23:45

Dead

Hi Tony
I am using home made Bio filtered at 5 microns but when I got the pump off of Stormforce, I was in so much hurry to get it fitted after the truck being off the road for weeks and weeks that I forgot to check the small filter before fitting.
So it is possible that the filter had never been cleaned.
There is quite a lot of crap in the tank but it goes thro two filters before getting to the pump. I have also fitted an inline filter just before the pump.

I gave up on using SVO I found it was too sticky and not worth the hassle plus I started getting some chinese WVO which was too fatty to filter so built a reactor.

About every two weeks I cook up 150ltrs of wvo I tested my bio and found it is still liquid down to about minus 5c (just).

Right now I am trying to get it going on Dino, the pump is full and if I take the fuel temp sensor out then fuel runs out but nothing gets up injector pipe No1.

How does the spill valve come off, I tried on the old pump but no matter how hard I tried I could not unscrew it.
We are talking about the big solenoid on top of the injector distributor block yes??.

That is about the only thing I could not remove, I am thinking that there is crap in there somewhere.

It is not fried it tests out OK, it is actually pulsed at up to 14v but if the ignition is turned on but the engine not cranked it gets up to 14v continuously.
You can hear a faint click when it is flashed but I would like to remove it cuz I am sure thats where the fault/crap hides.
Have you ever got one off??
John

**TonyN** · 1 February 2010, 23:59

odd, ours is 3-5 volts with the ignition on.

I have changed them, I had to abuse a spanner to get them off, cut it and rewelded at a steeper angle, and ground away the head to fit under the valve.

once its off you can prove fuel is getting past the distributive head and to the valve, then you'll know its clocked/duff as its the last thing before the injector pipes.

**johnsiddle** · 2 February 2010, 01:07

Spil Valve

Hi Tony
I got the spil valve voltage from the computer pin out at http://www.mhdfl.com/1KTZE%20PININ-PINOUT.pdf
While the engine is running the reading will be an average which could be 3-5 volts I guess

I will have another go at the old pump and see if I can get it off.
I will let you know how I get on.
John

**johnsiddle** · 4 February 2010, 23:53

Exploded Spill Valve/Solenoid

Seeing as I could not find any exploded pics of the Injector Pump,
I decided to sacrifice the spill valve on my old pump in an effort to understand how it works and maybe find out why it failed.

I thought the enclosed pics would be useful to anyone else who is stuck with no fuel to the injectors and everything else tried.

Firstly the spanner needed is 32mm across the flats.
It needs to be a substantial one as long as possible with maybe a piece of pipe to add leverage and aid in removal.
I also used a blow torch on the distributor block to help free the solenoid. Careful not to burn the rubber shroud (removed in my pics)
Do not try to remove the rubber shroud it will rip the wires out.
As you will see I used a monkey wrench which is not a good idea.
The pump needs to be mounted solidly in a vice.

I have now stripped my second solenoid. This one un-screwed easily. I did not need to heat this one up nor use an extention bar.

Once the solenoid is removed all the parts pull apart, in my case they were well stuck together with crud.
The parts are actually held with two crimps around a ridge, they will still pull apart and go back

The little filter gets carpeted with crud on the underside which may leave it stuck in the pump body. I think this was the reason for this pump failing.
Note that the filter has three layers of mesh the finest should be pump side, the course mesh had disintegrated on my pump so only two left.

DO NOT touch the lock nut that is under the dust cap on top of the solenoid I believe this is a factory setting for a spring/stop inside the solenoid.

From what I could see very high pressure fuel is pumped up through the filter and presses on the first jet (right hand side in my pic), the spring stops any flow.
When the Spill Solenoid energises pressure is released from the jet on the left hand side which allows the high pressure oil to move the middle plunger and so opening the flow to the three holes round the outside and on to which ever injector is open.
So really the solenoid just controls a small flow of fuel the very high pressure then does the rest.
Note there is a very fine hole in each of the barrels.

When all the parts are clean they all move freely with the springs tensioning them.
You may have to hold the pump body upside down to make sure the parts stay together when you start to screw the solenoid back in.
Not needed if the crimps hold.
But make sure the filter remains cental on the first jet and in the recess provided.

All thats left for me to do now is to remove the pump from my beast (again) and try to get the solenoid out without damage (after I get a good spanner) and clean out the crud, airline it, wash with white spirit and lubricate with dino.
I shall loctite the solenoid when I refit it.

Now completed the clean up on my second pump and refitted it, I managed to get some fuel out the first injector pipe and a quick fire but the engine is still not running. Batteries now back on charge. Bought some easy start to try and give it some incentive

For the future an inline paper filter fitted in the pipe close to the pump is a must.

I hope this will be useful to someone.

john

PS
If you flash the solenoid with 12v do it very quickly only a faint click will be heard, the movable bit only moves a couple of mm when not aided by pressurised oil.
The little part on the left in DSCN1409cropped.jpg is the part that moves when the solenoid is energised.

Sorry the pictures are a bit out of focus in places.

Attached Files

**johnsiddle** · 12 February 2010, 10:59

Sorted..... Chicken skin

Finally got the beast working.
I can only say one thing.... CHICKEN SKIN.

My final heater is a conduit type made out of copper tubes just before the pump.

Once I got it started again the crap that appeared in the little inline fuel filter I fitted filled with the stuff.

Answer either get a stainless heater box or fit an additional filter just before the pump.
John

**KERRSURF** · 18 February 2010, 01:34

Good right up, the hazards of WVO eh?

**johnsiddle** · 18 February 2010, 14:12

Too right

Too right it also explains the crap that came out of the injector pump after I filled it with white spirit and turned it upside down to flush it out..

I have learnt an awful lot about the injector pumps though.
They are not as scary as you think.
Regards John

PS got a starter prob now, is there no end to the fun????

**stormforce** · 18 February 2010, 16:03

good the see you got it all sorted again John.It sounds like you never really needed the pump in the end.At least you got a spare now or you can sell it on to get your money back

**johnsiddle** · 20 February 2010, 01:11

Hi Mate

Yes.
Now that I have taken every bit of the pump apart except the actual fuel pump bit I think I shall re-assemble whats left of it and keep it as a spare.
I can always use the the Spill Valve from the one I am using.
I also broke the fuel temp sensor in the process but again I still have a good one.

I feel quite qualified on pumps now.

Unfortunatley its not the total end to the story, the extended cranking of the engine to get the fuel to run has taken its toll on an already worn out starter solenoid, It now needs several attempts to get the starter moving.
So the next job is the starter out and a solenoid repair.

Do you know if the starter will come out without removing the oil filter??

After wrecking the fan with the socket spanner on the crank nut I decided to go the electric fan route.
I got a 16inch Kenlow type fan off Ebay for about �26 incl and using a temp senser from RS components which opens at 87C connected to a changover relay from the scrap yard it works a treat.
I removed the plastic cowl completely and mounted the fan using the cowl fixing bolts.
This weather the temp stays normal and the fan doesn't even trigger.

Regards John

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Dead again.... maybe pump again

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