Injectors

[waveydavey00]

Hi All,

with the help of some of everyone's good advice and a manual from Morr
( cheers Morr) I have finally got the head off. The gasket has definitely gone - 6mm gap between pots 2 and 3! There appear to be hairline cracks on the circular discs where the injectors fit but not elsewhere on the head. Are these part of the injectors or separate nozzles/ seats? Can they be replaced separately or will they not need replacing?

Does anyone know what must be stripped from the head to have a pressure test? Will everything have to come off including camshaft?

When someone posted "I need to hurry up and put this engine back together before I forget where everything goes" he was not kidding.

Any help gratefully received.

[waveydavey00]

Ok I have looked more closely at the manual. The bits I am looking at appear to be called combustion chambers and removeable with a special service tool. Any idea where I can obtain replacements anyone? I have searched the site but without success. Is there a way of removing without the sst?

[waveydavey00]

Ok I have looked more closely at the manual. The bits I am looking at appear to be called combustion chambers and removeable with a special service tool. Any idea where I can obtain replacements anyone? I have searched the site but without success. Is there a way of removing without the sst?

Ok - I thought the manual was wrong. Perhaps they are called pre-combustion chambers. They appear to be where the only cracks are. The big question is whether these cracks will make any difference to the engine running as it does not look to me as if this will allow loss of compression. Can they be replaced and where will I get the tool to do it or am I going to have to pay a machine shop to do it.

Does anyone know what needs to be stripped for a pressure test?

Please help as I am stumped at the moment.

[charliemuttley]

Hello mate, apparentley head can be tested as is- do not strip at all- waste of time. As far as i know it doesn't matter about the hairline cracks- i think the head needs to be faced if replacing the blanking plugs. I have done three heads and two engine changes on mine!!!

Easy enough but good luck. ( tip- put head on with both manifols and turbo all bolted on- much easier)

[marky]

The hairline cracks are a sign that the head has gone you need a new one!

[fatfires]

The hairline cracks are a sign that the head has gone you need a new one!

I think his cracks are in the pre combustion covers not between the valves

[charliemuttley]

That's what i thought.......oh and just realised you have a 3.0, so ignore other comments- never done one!

[waveydavey00]

That's what i thought.......oh and just realised you have a 3.0, so ignore other comments- never done one!

Great so if I have it pressure tested and that is OK then it can be refitted without more ado? There do not appear to be any cracks in the head itself.

[slowdown.harrison@gmail.c]

hmmm! waveydavey tsckk!!

What I want to know, is why you appear to have taken the name, of a known
latex clad bicycle riding heretic

you know just what I mean,

[crazybitch]

If its only the small discs that need replacement they are available from toyota (dont ask how much) I fitted genuine new head from toyota to mine, it came naked!!!!!! you can tap them out fromthe rear with the injectors removed and then knock new ones in to replace them, however it does not seem to make any difference if they are cracked or not so long as the head is not. You wont miss the cracks! usually between the bores on the head. Mine was caused by a bad radiator! it had lost most of its cooling fins so the head just got too hot towing a caravan over the pennines. There are also a number of differing thickness head gaskets if you go to toyota! they are marked by notches in the gasket, not an option with the cheap replacments

[waveydavey00]

[QUOTE=crazybitch]If its only the small discs that need replacement they are available from toyota (dont ask how much) I fitted genuine new head from toyota to mine, it came naked!!!!!!

Thanks for that.

I have taken the head to some very nice chaps at LOCKSTITCH in Rochdale. They confirmed the same information that you gave me and pressure tested the head (£25) with the amazing result that it is OK

However it was quite badly warped sooo was skimmed down by 22thou and this then required the valves to be reseated 22thou down. I had already bought the gasket set so they also fitted the new oil seals on the valves and gave it a thorough clean and the whole job including the pressure test and skim was £150 including the VAT. I think this was very reasonable so would recommend their work.

I have yet to finish the rebuild as I have been rained off since weekend, but hope it will live again soon.

Any idea what the manual means by "seal packing"? Do they mean gasket sealer? If so, is it best to use a silicone sealer or hermitite type sealer?

[Phil her up]

Doing a search on Google with the Toy part no. quoted in this manual shows this is a silcone based sealer widely used accross the Toyota engine range. It may therefore be reasonable to use Hylomar or similar from a local motor factors. Personally though I would use the Toyota stuff for peace of mind [QUOTE=waveydavey00]

If its only the small discs that need replacement they are available from toyota (dont ask how much) I fitted genuine new head from toyota to mine, it came naked!!!!!!

Thanks for that.

I have taken the head to some very nice chaps at LOCKSTITCH in Rochdale. They confirmed the same information that you gave me and pressure tested the head (£25) with the amazing result that it is OK

However it was quite badly warped sooo was skimmed down by 22thou and this then required the valves to be reseated 22thou down. I had already bought the gasket set so they also fitted the new oil seals on the valves and gave it a thorough clean and the whole job including the pressure test and skim was £150 including the VAT. I think this was very reasonable so would recommend their work.

I have yet to finish the rebuild as I have been rained off since weekend, but hope it will live again soon.

Any idea what the manual means by "seal packing"? Do they mean gasket sealer? If so, is it best to use a silicone sealer or hermitite type sealer?

[waveydavey00]

What I want to know, is why you appear to have taken the name, of a known
latex clad bicycle riding heretic

you know just what I mean,

I missed this in my excitement to rebuild the Surf. I am not sure I do know what you mean. Wasn't the heretic Graham Lister?

[waveydavey00]

[QUOTE=Phil her up]Doing a search on Google with the Toy part no. quoted in this manual shows this is a silcone based sealer widely used accross the Toyota engine range. It may therefore be reasonable to use Hylomar or similar from a local motor factors. Personally though I would use the Toyota stuff for peace of mind :thumbsup

Thanks for that I will try Toyota dealership.

[waveydavey00]

[QUOTE=waveydavey00][QUOTE=Phil her up]Doing a search on Google with the Toy part no. quoted in this manual shows this is a silcone based sealer widely used accross the Toyota engine range. It may therefore be reasonable to use Hylomar or similar from a local motor factors. Personally though I would use the Toyota stuff for peace of mind :thumbsup

Been to RRG today and they call it "ultra grey" apparently! It's a silicone based gasket sealer with high ptolerence to heat.
I have bolted the head down and am just consulting the manual about ancillaries. Anyone know exactly which injector pipe goes where on the fuel pump? Two needed a bit of easing into place and have bent a bit so it is not obvious to which union they go. I think they 1,2,3,4 counting clockwise from the bottom right and counting from the front of the engine for the cylinders.

Anyone know better?