Big end bearings

[Guest]

My Surf has developed a ticking sound that I want to fix before I sell it - don't want to sell it on with any problems.

I've got two possibilities I think.

1. Big end bearings starting to let go allowing the piston to slightly tap on the head (it's not a heavy ticking at the moment). I have come up with this diagnosis while researching the Landcruiser as it is a known problem on the 4.2TD engine and gives the same symptoms.

2. Camshaft going soft causing a tappet noise due to wear - when I replaced the head last year, the camshaft sent with the head was damaged and because I couldn't wait to get the Surf back on the road, I measured up the old camshaft which was well within tolerances and fitted that. Quiet as a mouse when first fitted.

My questions to anyone out there are as follows:

1. Any other suggestions as to what it might be?.

2. If it is the Big ends, where should I get these from, chances are that I will have no luck with Toyota.

3. If it is the camshaft, any suggestions as to where I should get that from.

4. If it is the Big ends, has anyone changed these with the engine in the car - I presume that the aircon rad will have to come off and then be recharged.

I'm soon going to have a bit of time on my hands between jobs when I can get these sorts of things fixed.

Cheers

[stevo]

engine noise

Can't see the camshaft going soft they are usually bullet proof, check the tappet clearances 1st,( inlet 008"-012" exhaust 016"-020" ). Try to isolate which cylinder the ticking is coming from by cracking off each injector pipe nut in turn when running then closing it again ( this will take the combustion load off each cylinder ) if the noise go's say when you crack off no 4 injector pipe then you either have a problem big end/ small end/ piston or even a sticking injector. If the noise persists and cracking off the injector makes no difference then the noise will be in the valve train somewhere ( tappets, camshaft, sloppy timing belt ). To replace the big end shells in situ you will somehow have to remove the sump, you may get enough clearance if you remove the engine mounting nuts and lift up the engine with an engine crane or block and tackle, i'm afraid you will probably have to remove the air con radiator if yours is slung below the engine, try to just move it out of the way without undoing the air con pipes.
Hope this info helps, good luck, Steve.

Ps, the big end shells are the same for all the Toyota 2L range and will be easily available through your local engine centre.

[Guest]

Can't see the camshaft going soft they are usually bullet proof, check the tappet clearances 1st,( inlet 008"-012" exhaust 016"-020" ). Try to isolate which cylinder the ticking is coming from by cracking off each injector pipe nut in turn when running then closing it again ( this will take the combustion load off each cylinder ) if the noise go's say when you crack off no 4 injector pipe then you either have a problem big end/ small end/ piston or even a sticking injector. If the noise persists and cracking off the injector makes no difference then the noise will be in the valve train somewhere ( tappets, camshaft, sloppy timing belt ). To replace the big end shells in situ you will somehow have to remove the sump, you may get enough clearance if you remove the engine mounting nuts and lift up the engine with an engine crane or block and tackle, i'm afraid you will probably have to remove the air con radiator if yours is slung below the engine, try to just move it out of the way without undoing the air con pipes.
Hope this info helps, good luck, Steve.

Ps, the big end shells are the same for all the Toyota 2L range and will be easily available through your local engine centre.

Thanks Steve, I'll do that. Thanks for the trick with the injectors, never though about that one.

If I do have to move the aircon radiator I will definately have to remove it as I have had it dropped down a couple of times for cleaning and there would be definately not enough clearance to remove the sump.

Cheers

[Smurf]

Before you go dropping the sump or pulling the cam out have you checked your exhaust manifold gaskets, if there is a slight leak it will sound like an engine tapping noise.Mine started making a ticking noise and that is what caused it.

[Guest]

Before you go dropping the sump or pulling the cam out have you checked your exhaust manifold gaskets, if there is a slight leak it will sound like an engine tapping noise.Mine started making a ticking noise and that is what caused it.

Yep had that one before and it might be that again, last time all the bolts were loose so it was easy to find - not this time though.

I will be checking it though.

Cheers

[Smurf]

1. Big end bearings starting to let go allowing the piston to slightly tap on the head (it's not a heavy ticking at the moment). I have come up with this diagnosis while researching the Landcruiser as it is a known problem on the 4.2TD engine and gives the same symptoms.

I was wondering why this would be a problem??? the 4.2 is a fairly new engine i think whereas the 2.4 has been around for years and not had these problems. As stevo says the shells should be the same wether it is a jap or uk block surely they are all made in the same factory?????? I have seen the threads about low ash oils but do uk 2.4 hilux engines need low ash oils???
Am i just getting confused over this big ends/oil issue?????

[Guest]

Can't see the camshaft going soft they are usually bullet proof, check the tappet clearances 1st,( inlet 008"-012" exhaust 016"-020" ). Try to isolate which cylinder the ticking is coming from by cracking off each injector pipe nut in turn when running then closing it again ( this will take the combustion load off each cylinder ) if the noise go's say when you crack off no 4 injector pipe then you either have a problem big end/ small end/ piston or even a sticking injector. If the noise persists and cracking off the injector makes no difference then the noise will be in the valve train somewhere ( tappets, camshaft, sloppy timing belt ). To replace the big end shells in situ you will somehow have to remove the sump, you may get enough clearance if you remove the engine mounting nuts and lift up the engine with an engine crane or block and tackle, i'm afraid you will probably have to remove the air con radiator if yours is slung below the engine, try to just move it out of the way without undoing the air con pipes.
Hope this info helps, good luck, Steve.

Ps, the big end shells are the same for all the Toyota 2L range and will be easily available through your local engine centre.

Steve.

Just want to say a big thanks. Just done the diagnosis and it isn't Big ends, it's in the valve train as I originally thought before my mind went off at a tangent. So I guess I will strip off the top and check the valve clearances and see where to go from there. I also checked all the exhaust side gasket seals and they were all OK - no leakage from there.

Guess it will either be the head bedding in that has caused such a rapid opening up of the clearances (also maybe cos I used the old cam though it was within allowable tolerance) or maybe the old cam got heat damaged when the head went (although I would have thought it would have had to get hot enough to damage other parts if that was the case).

Anyway, thanks for the help. At least it put my mind at rest. Don't think I have enough resources at home to do the big ends - would need to hire a crane to lift the engine to get the sump out - whereas I think anything on the top end is a Piece of P**s compared to changing the head.

Cheers M8

Edit.

Just ordered up a set of recon injectors from Uk Cylinerheads for £70 + Vat for the set which I thought was pretty good. Thought I might as well do them as I have been putting it off for ages and they need replacing anyway. Engine is pretty smoky on startup now.

[dirtydog]

1. Big end bearings starting to let go allowing the piston to slightly tap on the head (it's not a heavy ticking at the moment). I have come up with this diagnosis while researching the Landcruiser as it is a known problem on the 4.2TD engine and gives the same symptoms.

Just to stop you worrying so much lucky, Dads 4.2 has now done 210000 MILES with no engine trouble at all. Slight transmission oil leak and had wheel bearing and also a new rad this summer in France! (had a hole midway down on rad on way to a caravan site in the UK before getting the ferry- we were 5 up, towing over 1600kgs of stuff and temp went up to red on a hill. Kept the heaters on and sorted out on the flat-did this a few times in France too while towing till we found the prob and got the rad sorted - by a Renault garage : !!! Was prob running only 1/3 full and it got very hot! Strong engines those )

Thats about it and he's had it for the last 50k or so.
Came from GGG by the way.

[Guest]

1. Big end bearings starting to let go allowing the piston to slightly tap on the head (it's not a heavy ticking at the moment). I have come up with this diagnosis while researching the Landcruiser as it is a known problem on the 4.2TD engine and gives the same symptoms.

I was wondering why this would be a problem??? the 4.2 is a fairly new engine i think whereas the 2.4 has been around for years and not had these problems. As stevo says the shells should be the same wether it is a jap or uk block surely they are all made in the same factory?????? I have seen the threads about low ash oils but do uk 2.4 hilux engines need low ash oils???
Am i just getting confused over this big ends/oil issue?????

To be honest it was me putting 2 and 2 together and coming up with 496. Just had a thought that the noise may be the same. I've never heard of big end problems on the 2.4 unlike the 1H engine but because they are both interferance engines there is the possibility that the 2.4 when having a bearing gone could cause the same sort of noise - unlike most engines where big end bearing failure noise generally comes pretty obviously from the bottom.

Anyway, this afternoon the noise has got worse so I'm goihng to have to strip it out this weekend and see what is going on. I wonder if I have a vlave spring broken. Engine still runs perfectly though with no loss of oil pressure and no overheating.

Cheers

[Guest]

Well I just had the rocker cover off the engine and found out what the problem is.

Shim on the inlet valve of number 4 cylinder got a hole worn in the middle and had actually bent and popped out, was lying in the top of the engine.

I've taken it out and checked for swarf and put the engine back together - runs a bit rough now but I need to use the car on Monday and Tuesday and won't get the shims delivered until probably tuesday.

Does anyone think it will cause a problem. I know that it isn't advisable to run with a big clearance on exhaust valves but I think inlet valves should be OK. I'll be doing about 120 miles total in it until I can get it fixed.

Stevo, what do you think or anyone else.

Other than that I will have to hire a car for the week and I don't want to do that if I can get away with it.

I've never actually seen a tappet shim wear like that before. I think I am lucky in that it hasn't damaged the cam as far as I can see.

I'll have to get me a valve adjusting spring compressor I guess.

Cheers