Engine noise, no turbo, no oil pressure, engine light, help :/

[Terra Omnia]

Compression test will show you what it is, but useless for determining which gasket you have. Somewhere around 450PSI on a good engine but can vary quite a bit from one to another. Did you not check which gasket you should have used before you put it on?

I assumed they'd all be the same, or thicker for a head that's been skimmed. I used this one:

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=606&vid=145

[BUSHWHACKER]

I have some developments:

Today I figured out I could check fault codes, they gave me:
5 - Correction Resistance
12 - timer control valve

Both attributed to the pump. This feels like progress, though aside from checking the connections I'm still not sure what to attend to... Any ideas on the causes of these?

Thanks

Check/replace the correction resistors, especially the grey one as it controls the pump timing which would produce the diesel knock. The brown/beige resistor controls the fuel quantity.

Timer control valve code could be due to the fuel draining back to the tank overnight causing the difficult starting. The grey smoke indicates the air/fuel ratio is incorrect i.e. too much air per volume of fuel. Check the fuel primer on top of the filter is working.

How doe the truck start/run after clearing the ECU codes?

[Terra Omnia]

Timer control valve code could be due to the fuel draining back to the tank overnight causing the difficult starting. The grey smoke indicates the air/fuel ratio is incorrect i.e. too much air per volume of fuel. Check the fuel primer on top of the filter is working.

It's a manual pump, should it produce a bit of resistance after pumping it for a while? If so, it doesn't...

How doe the truck start/run after clearing the ECU codes?

As badly as ever, I had the batteries off for about 4 days while I did the work, so in theory it probably cleared everything then. If it had a value for these resistors stored before, it might not any more I guess.

Cheers

[Nige. coll]

you will not see on a compression test if the gasket is too thin.
they only vary in thickness by very small amounts 0.2 from thinest to thickest in a lot of cases.

if the turbo isn't working it will overfuel anyway.

[MYLUX]

Is there any chance at all an injector nozzle got damaged while the head was off and is just dumping fuel ?
This would cause a hell of a knock and quite possibly the poor starting.
Just a thought.

[Terra Omnia]

you will not see on a compression test if the gasket is too thin.
they only vary in thickness by very small amounts 0.2 from thinest to thickest in a lot of cases.

if the turbo isn't working it will overfuel anyway.

In that case I have no way of knowing if the gasket is the problem, the old one's long gone :/

As for turbo; true, but it wouldn't do so at revs < 2000 ish. I'm worrying about that later for now.

Is there any chance at all an injector nozzle got damaged while the head was off and is just dumping fuel ?

This is entirely possible, but there doesn't seem to be excess smoke when driving normally, only during and immediately after starting for the first time each day.

I'm going to try the "Fault Code 5" fix. Gonna take the resistors off and test the values, if they're out then that could be at least part of my issue...

[Terra Omnia]

Ok, the car wouldn't start at all today. But I took that day off and just managed to get it started, lots of black smoke when driving, and lots of grey smoke when first starting up and turning over...

I've also tested the resistors that should cause "fault code 5", they're fine, well within tolerance.

Is there any other reason fault code 5 should show?

An has anyone any other ideas as to what the bad starting / noisy running / lack of power could be down to?

I believe the turbo isn't working because fault code 12 is showing, from what I've researched this could be due to any number of reasons...

I've bought a load of jubilee clips to replace the spring loaded ones on the fuel pipes, just to rule out air getting in through them, there is of course the possibility of air leaking into the pump, though fuel isn't leaking out and I didn't have these problems before...

Crankshaft position sensor perhaps? If it has one..

[BUSHWHACKER]

Pull off the rubber elbow on the front of the turbo, start engine and rev it past 2500 rpm. Does the turbo spin up and give a whoosh sound when you release the throttle?

There's a turbo pressure sensor bolted to the side of the air filter can, check that it's plugged in and the small diameter rubber pipe is connected.

[Terra Omnia]

Pull off the rubber elbow on the front of the turbo, start engine and rev it past 2500 rpm. Does the turbo spin up and give a whoosh sound when you release the throttle?

There's a turbo pressure sensor bolted to the side of the air filter can, check that it's plugged in and the small diameter rubber pipe is connected.

Wise words, I just had the air filter box off and forgot to reconnect that pipe, slight reduction in black smoke, no additional effects. What is that sensor exactly, and what does it control?

As for the first bit, are you suggesting the turbo might be damaged or that there's a blockage in the air intake?

[BUSHWHACKER]

Try clearing the codes in the ECU now that you've reconnected that pipe.
The pressure sensor basically tells the ECU to increase fuel delivery as the turbo is boosting.

Remove the turbo's rubber elbow to see if the impellor spins freely and that the wastegate is operating and the green turbo light is illuminating. (Engine running and revved up to 2500-3000rpm.

[Terra Omnia]

Try clearing the codes in the ECU now that you've reconnected that pipe.
The pressure sensor basically tells the ECU to increase fuel delivery as the turbo is boosting.

Remove the turbo's rubber elbow to see if the impellor spins freely and that the wastegate is operating and the green turbo light is illuminating. (Engine running and revved up to 2500-3000rpm.

Ok, I left the batteries disconnected earlier with the lights on, probably not for long enough though, only about 2 hours. But I noticed no difference, I'll try it again when I can.

As for the turbo, the light itself only comes on when you first start the car and drive off, then after about a minuet the engine light comes on and the turbo light goes out. If you rev it when standing the engine light comes on immediately and no turbo. It you start the car and leave it ticking the engine light will still come on after about a minuet.

I checked it with that L pipe off, the turbo has a slight judder of play in it and appears to have some damage to the vanes but it still spins when running and speeds up when revved, though no turbo light :/ I have a feeling the other issues are hampering its effect...

[gwh200]

I would think about changing the boost sensor.

[Terra Omnia]

All in all, the turbo not working is quite far down my list of issues. My priority is to stop this knocking and bad starting, and as far as I can see my next options are to:
- Check the wiring hasn't been damaged by somehow finding where the pump wires go and checking their continuity.
- If that fails try a replacement fuel pump, essentially because it will replace some parts showing faults and could be my problem...

When i had the pump off before I did my best not to spill any fuel out of it, one thing i didn't do is clean it though with anything. Would this be worth doing and what's the best way to do this?

[Terra Omnia]

Slight update, bad starting, engine noise and lack of turbo persists...

I've checked the continuity of the "correction resistance" resistors to the ECU, they're fine, the only issue is I get nothing to earth.

Does anybody know where these wires go to earth? This would help me immensely!

[BUSHWHACKER]

This help?

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsit...engineelec.htm