Engine noise, no turbo, no oil pressure, engine light, help :/

[Terra Omnia]

Where to begin...

Well thanks already for the wealth of information this forum has provided me with already, it's been incredibly useful when undergoing recent work.

I have a few problems though that I must have caused when doing this work, the original problems were a fuel leak, from the pump, and an oil leak, from the head gasket. These are no longer an issue; I stripped it down, replaced most of the outer seals in the fuel pump (wasn't brave enough to take it fully apart) and replaces the head gasket. Now I have new problems:

The first problem is an awful engine knocking noise, It occurs when ticking over and driving normally, but not when you lift off approaching a junction, it's quite loud and very noticeable. I have a feeling it's the fuel pump out of time, however we're pretty sure it was spot-on when replacing the timing belt cover, are there any sensors that detect the angle of the pump that could have been damaged?

The second problem could be more than one issue; the oil pressure gauge is measuring nothing, not a blip, this leads me to believe it's a damaged pressure sensor, though I don't think it touched it. If I'm right it's supposed to be about in line with the number 4 cylinder and beside the oil filter on the 2L-TE engine?

Also the turbo is not working, no noise and no light, and the engine light is on, could these be as a result of there being no oil pressure reading?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Dave

[Terra Omnia]

As of yesterday I have some developments:

I took the front off to check the timing, and I never thought I'd say this but unfortunately it was spot on... :/

So I'm at a complete loss as to what's causing this knocking noise. Also a part of it I forgot to mention is bad starting after being stood overnight, it takes a while to start and when turning over spews out a cloud of grey smoke, once started it will start no problem all day after that.

On a brighter note I found the cable for the oil pressure sender had come loose, I now have a pressure reading! Unfortunately I still have the engine light on and no turbo...

Any ideas, help will be much appreciated

[NiftyNev]

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...php?f=16&t=729

Nev.

[Terra Omnia]

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...php?f=16&t=729

Nev.

I'm sure this is useful, but the link takes me to a login/register page, if you tell me the title of the thread and the section I'm sure I could find it, cheers Nev

[zem_41]

Did you bleed the injectors?

[Terra Omnia]

Did you bleed the injectors?

No, I figured they'd manage it automatically, would you do this by loosening them off, turning it over and tightening them up when fuel squirts out?

[NiftyNev]

I'm sure this is useful, but the link takes me to a login/register page, if you tell me the title of the thread and the section I'm sure I could find it, cheers Nev

So it does. Things must have changed with the forum upgrade so you will have to register to see it.

Nev.

[zem_41]

Yeah that's right, there could be air trapped in there?
Might not be the prob but at least it's eliminated
Good luck

[BUSHWHACKER]

As of yesterday I have some developments:

I took the front off to check the timing, and I never thought I'd say this but unfortunately it was spot on... :/

So I'm at a complete loss as to what's causing this knocking noise. Also a part of it I forgot to mention is bad starting after being stood overnight, it takes a while to start and when turning over spews out a cloud of grey smoke, once started it will start no problem all day after that.

On a brighter note I found the cable for the oil pressure sender had come loose, I now have a pressure reading! Unfortunately I still have the engine light on and no turbo...

Any ideas, help will be much appreciated

Most likely cause for the diesel knock is the fuel pipes have been re-fitted to the injectors incorrectly i.e. two of them are in the wrong positions on the back of the pump.

No turbo pressure will probably be the vacuum pipe has come off under the throttle body. It's a short 'J' shape piece.

[NiftyNev]

3---1

4---2

Viewed from back of pump.

Nev.

[Terra Omnia]

Unfortunately all seems to be ok with the injectors and vacuum pipes; the fuel pipes are aligned as to that diagram ^ and I can find no loose pipes, perhaps I got a couple the wrong way around... :/

So same problems remain, I'll try to find some picture or diagram of the pipes but this knocking issue is baffling me... Could it be a damaged sensor perhaps?

[Terra Omnia]

I have some developments:

Today I figured out I could check fault codes, they gave me:
5 - Correction Resistance
12 - timer control valve

Both attributed to the pump. This feels like progress, though aside from checking the connections I'm still not sure what to attend to... Any ideas on the causes of these?

Thanks

[NiftyNev]

Recheck your timing. Post a pic with cover removed if you can.

Nev.

[Terra Omnia]

I could do, but that was the first thing I double checked, and it was spot on, not even a slight deviation from the marks. :/

I'm still confused as to why the fault codes that are showing; I don't know if they are as a result of a mechanical fault, or the cause the engine noise and bad starting: If the sensors / resistors have been damaged when I did the work would the ECU look for a value from them after the batteries had been disconnected for so long? Doesn't the ECU store a value from these sensors and only renews the value after it has been powered down, ie the batteries have been disconnected for a while.

Someone I know has suggested the fault could be with the head gasket I used, if it was too thin it could cause increased compression, though I'm pretty sure it was, if anything, thicker than the one that came off... I don't believe the head has been skimmed in its lifetime, and I didn't have it done.

I think my next step could be a compression test:
If the compression is too high it would suggest a head gasket that was too thin.
If it's too low it could suggest the timing is out even though the belt shows otherwise.
If the compression is right I would have little option but to repair / replace the sensors on the fuel pump and see how it goes...

Knowing this then, does anybody know what the compression should be for the 2.4 2L-TE engine?

[NiftyNev]

Compression test will show you what it is, but useless for determining which gasket you have. Somewhere around 450PSI on a good engine but can vary quite a bit from one to another. Did you not check which gasket you should have used before you put it on?

Nev.