The saga continues

[Barnabyp]

I'm wondering then whether the small filters could do with being cleaned, if the water was being blown every were when the head went then maybe the filters are clogged with crap. This might be affecting the usefullness of the switches/sensors. Just an idea.
what about the Oxygen sensor. Is that worth replacing/Cleaning? If so where is it?

[Koi]

I'm wondering then whether the small filters could do with being cleaned, if the water was being blown every were when the head went then maybe the filters are clogged with crap. This might be affecting the usefullness of the switches/sensors. Just an idea.
what about the Oxygen sensor. Is that worth replacing/Cleaning? If so where is it?

Very much doubt water got in them from the few litres of coolant held in the system, hell you seen some of the water we been through off roading and mine are fine.
I would start with basics and find someone with a 2LT near you and compare the hoses are all correct and not split.

[Barnabyp]

I was looking through some earlier threads and saw this.
this guy had a faulty high pressure switch and his solution was to bypass it as the picture shows. Would bypassing the high pressure switch be dangerous ie. carries on boosting until the turbo exits the bonnet? He says it increases the power and the turbo light comes on much more frequently.
I don't want to do anything dodgy, but it sounds good.
link to website: http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/turboboostfix.htm

[Guest]

I was looking through some earlier threads and saw this.
this guy had a faulty high pressure switch and his solution was to bypass it as the picture shows. Would bypassing the high pressure switch be dangerous ie. carries on boosting until the turbo exits the bonnet? He says it increases the power and the turbo light comes on much more frequently.
I don't want to do anything dodgy, but it sounds good.
link to website: http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/turboboostfix.htm

I am pretty sure that the Turbo maximum pressure is controlled by the wastgate on the side of the turbo, which I don't think is actuated by the high pressure switch which I think has something to do with the ECU.

I'm sure someone will put me right if I am wrong on this. If I am correct then bypassing the high pressure switch should not effect the turbo maximum boost, but would just stop the ECU bringing up an error if the turbo pressure goes too high (the Engine check light comes on if the turbo boost exceeds 11psi I think).

Cheers

[andy]

Thanks for the Pics.
This is how mine is set up. Is this correct, should pipe 1 be attached to the Turbo sensor?
What are the sensors B & C?
Is it worth replacing these?
Also could it also be a faulty oxygen sensor causing the low power, if so where is it and where can i get one?
feeling a bit more positive now, thanks!

I have studied all of these pictures for the last hour, and it looks like we are on the right track, but I need to know from Koi if you can look at what pipe from this picture goes to the turbo pressure sensor.

[Barnabyp]

Ive had my head under the bonnet again, and this is what i have found.
1) Looking at the vacuum pipe layout. the pipe that Tees off from the turbo switch should be running into the connection shown on photo 1. It is howver running to the unidentified object on photo 2 (shown as purple on the diagram). Can anyone identify this, it is located next to the fuel injector pump.
2) The connection on photo 2 is linked to a pipe that runs along the blue line on the diagram. I have two lines running across there one goes as shown, the other is connected to the object on photo1.
3) If the diagram is correct, then i have the purple pipe wrong and an extra pipe running across from the turbo side of the engine and a bit of kit that has no pipe to connect to it.
Sorry if this goes on.

[kevb]

the answer to whats this?
that is the idle up for air con
when the air con is switched on it puts a load on the engine so there is a vacuumm solenoid valve which switches on the vacumm to the idle up to bring up the revs slightly.


in the first picture the thing you have circled changes the max fuel delivery in the pump when the turbo boosts.if you want to check if this is working correctly you can connect the pipe coming out of the inlet manifold directly to that and see if it gives you more power.in this way your bypassing the high pressure switch and the boost pressure gauge so no lights will come on on the dash.see if this gives you more power.

that is connect the red pipe in picture 3 to the thing you have circled in picture 1 and picture 3 in red

im on holidays for 2 weeks ill be back on friday the 20 hope you get it sorted.

[Barnabyp]

Maybe The End

Right, I now have some good news and some bad news.
I found the following bad connections in the vacuum pipes.
The pipe that was meant to go onto the Air conditioning idle valve was actually attached to the metal pipes up by the red and blue turbo sensors.
The turbo pipe was attached to the Airconditioning idle valve.
And the pipe that should be attached to the metal pipes was attached to the Maximum fuel valve.
I can't begin to think what this has been doing to the engine.
Right so i connected them all fine and tried it out on the way home. Its back to how it was before.
So I phoned the original garage that fixed it and told them. At first they couldn't understand why that was their problem and why the overheating and running hot was anything to do with this faux pas. They also said that when i had brought it back after trying it out they had swapped the vacuum pipes around to see if the problems went away, when this hadn't helped they told me it was the turbo and the Fuel pump that need replacing. I curtiously explained and they said they would pay the bills i have incurred.
However i wa about 5 minutes from home and i switched the Air conditioning on. The engine seemed fine and then the temp gauge started creeping up. I switched the air con off and put the heater on (nice on a day like this). This reduced the temp to normal. I got home and had a look under the bonnet to find water spewing out of the expansion tank and the water bubling from the steam blowing down the pipe.
I let it cool and then refilled the coolant. Then started up again and the coolant started spewing out of the filler point (didn't have the rad cap on). Then it subsided (hopefully this is burping).
I don't want to ask this but could the head have gone again? There wasn't steam coming out of the exhaust.
ought to check the oil cap aswell.
I MUST SAY ON THE WAY HOME I HAD 1/2 HR OF NOT WORRYING!

[Barnabyp]

Finally shes back!!!

Finally, its all over. I found that the bottom coolant pipe was leaking from the joint, so i put on a new jubilee clip and the coolant is now fine. The engine is holding its temperature well and theres no need for me to drive around with the heater on anymore!
Thanks for the help, sorry it went on a bit.
Moral of the story, Don't always trust garages.