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**Surfer Ross** · 14 January 2011, 09:31

Sounds to me as if you are either losing compression from the head not being properly torqued down or you are not getting enough air into the engine to burn the fuel being supplied.

Does the 1st gen 2.4 have a butterfly valve anywhere in the intake? If so, it's possible that it's not properly adjusted and not opening correctly on throttle.

Where was the turbo sourced from? It's possible that its goosed and not supplying enough air. Did you reconnect all the vacuum hoses in the right places?

For what it's worth, I think your problem is related to getting air in and out of the engine. If you have enough fuel to hit 3k rpm under load, it's clear that your fuel quantity and timing is fine.

Second thought, I don't think anybody on the forum has ever got away with a straight gasket replacement on the 2.4. The heads themselves have always been cracked. If you search my posts, you'll see photos of my cracked cylinder head on my 3.0 3rd Gen. They crack between the intake and exhaust valves and across the combustion chambers. Have you checked the coolant for exhaust gas or put a balloon/condom over the rad cap whilst running the engine with your thumb over the end of the hose that goes into the expansion tank?

**stormforce** · 14 January 2011, 10:07

Jas are you sure it's a 1st gen you got and not the pre-facelift 2nd gen.
The 1st gen has the removeable reae roof to make the truck look more like a pick-up.
Just asking so we know to give the right answers for you

**NiftyNev** · 14 January 2011, 11:16

LN130 will be second generation.

Nev

**jbriers** · 14 January 2011, 17:49

Many thanks for your replies & time.

To answer your questions so far-the turbo is in good working order (was taken off my other surf) so think that its safe to say we can rule turbo out. All hoses appear to be correct (I took pics before as reference).

Hi Rich. I stand corrected as it must be a pre-facelift 2nd gen, although I will post some pics so you can judge for yourselves.

Hi Ross. It does have the valve you describe. How would one test the operation of it?
I agree that the air theory is a major possibility, although in defence of fuel/timimg being my #1 suspect, I'll explain why....

Had another look at pump today & noticed that the fuel lines may not be in the correct sequence. Looking at the schematic for 2LT pump & using that as rule of thumb so to speak-the sequence on mine is Union 1-Inj 1, Union 2-Inj 3, Union 3-Inj 4, Union 4-Inj 2.

Tickover is a little rough & there is a slight diesel knock. When the engine cranks, it starts very quickly.

Does anybody have any links to manual fuel pump stuff please...?

Will go do those pics now.

CHeers all :o)

**sabreuk** · 14 January 2011, 18:20

Sounds stupid but check your crank sensor and wiring if that's not working or the wiring has come off/broken you get the same symptoms.

**Surfer Ross** · 14 January 2011, 18:25

Originally posted by jbriers View Post

Many thanks for your replies & time.

To answer your questions so far-the turbo is in good working order (was taken off my other surf) so think that its safe to say we can rule turbo out. All hoses appear to be correct (I took pics before as reference).

Hi Rich. I stand corrected as it must be a pre-facelift 2nd gen, although I will post some pics so you can judge for yourselves.

Hi Ross. It does have the valve you describe. How would one test the operation of it?
I agree that the air theory is a major possibility, although in defence of fuel/timimg being my #1 suspect, I'll explain why....

Had another look at pump today & noticed that the fuel lines may not be in the correct sequence. Looking at the schematic for 2LT pump & using that as rule of thumb so to speak-the sequence on mine is Union 1-Inj 1, Union 2-Inj 3, Union 3-Inj 4, Union 4-Inj 2.

Tickover is a little rough & there is a slight diesel knock. When the engine cranks, it starts very quickly.

Does anybody have any links to manual fuel pump stuff please...?

Will go do those pics now.

CHeers all :o)

That doesn't sound quite right and it'd account for the black smoke as you'll be injecting fuel on the expulsion stroke. I'm not sure if thats the whole story though as I'd have thought it'd cause black smoke at all revs and throttle positions, maybe not. Its a good place to start though.

You'll find the engine manuals here: http://daemon4x4.org/portal/downloads.php?dcid=17

If you post your email address, I'll send you the 2L 2.4NA Engine manual from the VW Taro, this has the same mechanical fuel pump as yours. It could be that the injection duration or timing is just slightly out.

**Surfer Ross** · 14 January 2011, 18:30

Originally posted by sabreuk View Post

Sounds stupid but check your crank sensor and wiring if that's not working or the wiring has come off/broken you get the same symptoms.

I wouldn't have thought it'd start at all if there were no signal from the crank sensor. Most engines don't.

**sabreuk** · 14 January 2011, 18:56

If it's a petrol mate your right, my 2.4 had runing issues because the crank sensor wiring was off, I lost boost off the turbo the turbo didn't spool up when driving got diesel knock on start up rough idling but it did start and drive granted sluggish but it does drive. Took a while to find though hencexwhy I said check it.

**Surfer Ross** · 14 January 2011, 18:59

Originally posted by sabreuk View Post

If it's a petrol mate your right, my 2.4 had runing issues because the crank sensor wiring was off, I lost boost off the turbo the turbo didn't spool up when driving got diesel knock on start up rough idling but it did start and drive granted sluggish but it does drive. Took a while to find though hencexwhy I said check it.

Definitely one to check then. Does the mechanical pump 2.4 have a crank angle sensor?

**sabreuk** · 14 January 2011, 19:54

Good question well presented. I don't think it does mate the crank sensor is on the passenger side of the engine right at the bottom of the block, if you like at the fuel lines at the back of the pump it's just below them, can be a pain to get to but you wouldn't believe what probs you get if its not working.

**Surfer Ross** · 14 January 2011, 20:31

Originally posted by sabreuk View Post

Good question well presented. I don't think it does mate the crank sensor is on the passenger side of the engine right at the bottom of the block, if you like at the fuel lines at the back of the pump it's just below them, can be a pain to get to but you wouldn't believe what probs you get if its not working.

I can imagine mate. VAG 1.8Ts have big problems with a dicky crank sensor.

**jbriers** · 14 January 2011, 22:10

Hi Ross

e-mail is: jason_briers@yahoo.co.uk

Have tried downloading using bit torrent software-no joy so far, will keep trying thou

many, many thanks

**Surfer Ross** · 14 January 2011, 23:27

Originally posted by jbriers View Post

Hi Ross

e-mail is: jason_briers@yahoo.co.uk

Have tried downloading using bit torrent software-no joy so far, will keep trying thou

many, many thanks

Jason,

No problem, I had the link in my Surf folder. Its bigger than 25Mb so GMail won't let me send it. I'm in the process of creating a Google Website and uploading the file. I'll email you the link to it when its done. Shouldn't be more than a few minutes.

**jbriers** · 18 January 2011, 11:44

Hi all

Have checked the engine block as suggested & think I have located said crank position sensor. It appears to have been blanked off with a plastic cap. No loose wires or anything that would suggest it has been damaged in any way

Will sometime this week be able to remove the fuel pump to have a closer inspection.

Many thanks all :o)

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