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valve shims etc

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Albannach View Post
    I wouldn't recommend using shimming steel, instead of the correct shim, in an engine.
    got to be honest i agree as the shim won't be sat as low in the bucket as it should be and you run the risk of the shim being dislodged and bouncing around the head
    its better to fix the problem properly than have a quick fix go wrong and cost you your engine but this is just my oppinion
    I'M ALWAYS IN THE SH'T, IT'S ONLY THE DEPTH THAT VARIES!!!!!!!!

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    • #17
      I appreciate your point but we are talking about lifting the main shim by .06mm. If it's going to come out because the seat in the bucket is too shallow, surely they would have designed it with a tolerance of more than this?
      It's more likely to throw a shim if the clearance is too great.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by potif View Post
        I appreciate your point but we are talking about lifting the main shim by .06mm. If it's going to come out because the seat in the bucket is too shallow, surely they would have designed it with a tolerance of more than this?
        It's more likely to throw a shim if the clearance is too great.
        What if your wee .06mm shim decides to shred its self? Or the metals aren't compatible (from a wear point of view)? There are a few reasons I'd not use shimming steel in moving parts.
        Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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        • #19
          Ok I'm going to put my point forward for what it's worth.

          Pay about a fiver or at the most a tenner for the right shim..........job done.

          Simples as the Meerkats say on TV.
          If at first you don't succeed.........give up.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Albannach View Post
            What if your wee .06mm shim decides to shred its self? Or the metals aren't compatible (from a wear point of view)? There are a few reasons I'd not use shimming steel in moving parts.
            Once again, point taken but the shimming steel is not under any wearing load - just compressive load as it is trapped in a recess below the main shim with no point loading from the cam (unlike the main shim). If it were to eventually work harden and crack the bits would have to be pretty dam small to get past the main shim and come out.

            All the same, I'll see how easy it is to get the right shim from my local Toyota dealer and change it when I get time. This was a quick fix to try and resolve the new noise after the glow plug fiasco, which I am now 90% convinced is mainly from the injector.

            Thanks for the advice.

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