nasty noise

[tomtrux]

my engine is making a random and inconsistant clanging/crunching noise! when looking underneath there is nothing that seems to be out of place etc, normally when turning or if the engine is revved hard (never more than 2750rpm) for pulling away etc it will make the noise. i thought maybe something was on its way our so i thrashed it off road to see if i could break whatever was going to but i lost power steering for about 5 mins??????? did it its worse today when pulling out of a junction on a hill.....sounded like something has broken off and is banging around the bottom of the engine block? the noise seems to be louder drivers side nearer the foot well. i recently changed all my gearbox/transfer/diff oils but couldnt do the front one as it was too tight... there is a load if black mud/ dirt under front diff but its not sure if i should rule out the front diff being desperate for a change??? not sure where to start without taking it to TOYOTA! which should be a last resort... its a LN130 2.4 manual on a K plate!!! any suggestions are most welcome as i haven't a clue where to start looking???
thanks all

[TonyN]

if its when turning and reving, then i'd look at the power steering pump, check the level at least.

otherwise steering stops if just when on full lock regardless of engine speed

or flywheel if when reving/pulling away

or a million other things! lol

you need to isolate some things

1/ stationary or when moving, clutch pressed or up
2/ if moving under load or coasting, in gear or in neutral rolling
3/ does it do it in 4wd or 2wd

see if you can decide if its a engine or transmission noise

the front diff should'n't be causing it, unless its stuck in 4wd and has buggered something, but normally the CV's will give up before the diff if so.

My moneys on the dual mass flywheel fallen apart.

[SoundsDigital]

I had a bolt snap on the power steering pump on mine, though it didn't make a noise, I just couldn't tighten the belt up and lost power steering. It could be the DMF if you still have it fitted too and the pwer steering problem was coincidental, maybe the belt got wet and started slipping.

[Sancho]

My moneys on the dual mass flywheel fallen apart.

Mine too. Where's the bookie?

[tomtrux]

if its when turning and reving, then i'd look at the power steering pump, check the level at least.

otherwise steering stops if just when on full lock regardless of engine speed

or flywheel if when reving/pulling away

or a million other things! lol

you need to isolate some things

1/ stationary or when moving, clutch pressed or up
2/ if moving under load or coasting, in gear or in neutral rolling
3/ does it do it in 4wd or 2wd

see if you can decide if its a engine or transmission noise

the front diff should'n't be causing it, unless its stuck in 4wd and has buggered something, but normally the CV's will give up before the diff if so.

My moneys on the dual mass flywheel fallen apart.

chatting to a friend i think we ruled out the front diff! 4wd works fine and it doesn't make the sound any worse!

i did wonder if it was a damaged clutch as the noise changed as i depressed and lifted it a couple of times but this didn't make a difference the next time round???

i'm not much of a mechanic so i dont actually know what the duel mass fly wheel is but any more pointers on what to check for etc would be great!!!

i really appreciate the help so far, thanks guys!!

[tomtrux]

I had a bolt snap on the power steering pump on mine, though it didn't make a noise, I just couldn't tighten the belt up and lost power steering. It could be the DMF if you still have it fitted too and the pwer steering problem was coincidental, maybe the belt got wet and started slipping.

didn't for one second considder that i may have got the belt wet!! don't you just hate rookie mistakes lol

think we can rule out anything steering related!

thanks for that...

[adpsimpson]

The flywheel is on the output of the engine, between it and the gearbox. It's a fairly big job to change. The 2.4 has a dual mass flywheel, which reduces torsional vibration in the engine - good and well till it falls apart as tends to happen eventually. It can be replaced with a solid flywheel, which makes the engine slightly more noisy, but more reliable.

[tomtrux]

The flywheel is on the output of the engine, between it and the gearbox. It's a fairly big job to change. The 2.4 has a dual mass flywheel, which reduces torsional vibration in the engine - good and well till it falls apart as tends to happen eventually. It can be replaced with a solid flywheel, which makes the engine slightly more noisy, but more reliable.

thanks for that, i knew what a flywheel was but never heard of duel mass (thought maybe it had 2 cos it was a truck) i got a mate who can get parts if its something i cant source from a breaker, do you know if i'd need clutch, gearbox oil etc to get it done? also have you any more info on the solid more reliable flywheel? this sounds like a good option :c)

thanks

[adpsimpson]

'fraid I don't know any more than that, have a read around though, it gets discussed here from time to time. I think Roughtrax or Milners sell the solid flywheel conversion, but not 100% on that either.

[Sancho]

Dual mass has got springs and whatnot in it. I think it's supposed to be easier to spin up like a small flywheel, but keep momentum like a bigger one.
Google can tell you anyway.

As for replacement, Roughtrax do both dual and solid. Solid will be fine, it's fitted to UK 4runners as standard.

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/index.ph...&term=flywheel

[lord_flashart]

I had the same trouble and changed mine to a solid flywheel about 3 months ago.
It is more noisy after the change, the gearbox chatters when in neutral until you put your foot on the clutch to disengage it as the dual mass flywheel takes out the vibrations and energy spikes from the engine but the solid one (being solid!) can't.

It takes a bit of getting used to but it's fine now!


If you have the pre-facelift 2nd gen then you'll also have a 225mm clutch which will need changing (but I expect it's trashed now anyway due to bits of spring and fly wheel getting in between the plates and chewing it up) but on the upside it'll be replaced with the 240mm clutch which is much better anyway and it's inlcuded in the new kit along with the thrust bearing.
I would also change the spigot bearing and crank shaft oil seal while you're in there. They're cheap and you may as well to save another few hours if you need to change it later on. In fact, I have a spare spigot bearing and oil seal if you'd like to make me an offer for them?
You may also need to change the clutch actuator pin from the slave cylinder (I did) as it's wasn't long enough to disengage the clutch fully with the new components in there.
If it's a post facelift 2nd gen then you'll already have a 240mm clutch and some of that won't be necessary just thought I'd add the info in case.

While you're in there copper grease the clutch actuator to stop any future squeaking, it's really annoying! Mine started squeaking about a month before the flywheel broke so I was lucky; I didn't have to take the gearbox off twice!


Hope this helps,


Ray.

[tomtrux]

I had the same trouble and changed mine to a solid flywheel about 3 months ago.
It is more noisy after the change, the gearbox chatters when in neutral until you put your foot on the clutch to disengage it as the dual mass flywheel takes out the vibrations and energy spikes from the engine but the solid one (being solid!) can't.

It takes a bit of getting used to but it's fine now!


If you have the pre-facelift 2nd gen then you'll also have a 225mm clutch which will need changing (but I expect it's trashed now anyway due to bits of spring and fly wheel getting in between the plates and chewing it up) but on the upside it'll be replaced with the 240mm clutch which is much better anyway and it's inlcuded in the new kit along with the thrust bearing.
I would also change the spigot bearing and crank shaft oil seal while you're in there. They're cheap and you may as well to save another few hours if you need to change it later on. In fact, I have a spare spigot bearing and oil seal if you'd like to make me an offer for them?
You may also need to change the clutch actuator pin from the slave cylinder (I did) as it's wasn't long enough to disengage the clutch fully with the new components in there.
If it's a post facelift 2nd gen then you'll already have a 240mm clutch and some of that won't be necessary just thought I'd add the info in case.

While you're in there copper grease the clutch actuator to stop any future squeaking, it's really annoying! Mine started squeaking about a month before the flywheel broke so I was lucky; I didn't have to take the gearbox off twice!


Hope this helps,


Ray.

yeah thats great thanks... and also very interesting!! i'm waiting to find out if this is definatly the problem before i go spending money i dont have lol.
the realism of the clutch and other bits being damaged as a cause of it is cringing as i've never kept a vehicle long enough to incure expensive repairs... (hell i've had 9 cars in 3 years so not even had to MOT 1 lol) one of which was a hilux wich i regretted selling... hence another hilux :-) so finally got a vehicle i enjoy owning.only paid £800 for it so expected to spend a few hundred to keep it going for 2-3 years until i yould afford a twin cab hilux!!! anyway, enough babbling lol.i really appreciate the info.sounds like a solid flywheel is a good idea. could always sound proof the foot wells if the wife complains about the noise lol.

swriously though is the solid flywheel definatly the more reliable option (the extra vibration wont damage anything else??) or is it just a cheaper option? i'd probably still do it if its just cheaper but like to know what i'm doing!

one last thing... post face lift is with the lights that are not sunk in???? thats what mine is!!

thanks again for the help i really appreciate it

[lord_flashart]

The solid flywheel is definately more reliable as there are no moving parts to break and yes, you are running the facelift version.

This will make things slightly different; I went for the solid conversion as my clutch was the smaller 225mm type and once I'd got both a dual mass flywheel and a 240mm clutch and then the bearings and an oil seal I was running into serious cash which I just didn't have.
With your setup you should be able to just change the flywheel if you want providing none of the other parts are damaged. The clutch will already be the 240mm type and therefore may not need replacing which will balance against some of the extra cost if you decide to go for the dual mass type but I would get a clutch, bearings and seals anyway as if it is damaged then you have it there to change without extra delays and if it's not then you can send it back.

As far as damage to anything else is concerned I can't say long term but I have done a few 300 mile trips around Cornwall and a few 600 mile trips around wales with a bit offroading on each plus commuting and 'normal' driving without any issues. It feels a little different and sounds a little different as you would expect but as for performance; it's absolutely fine.

You could save the money for other mods or if money is tight then just keep it for fuel!?



Hope this helps,


Ray.

[tomtrux]

thanks ray, your advice has been great! i think i may go with clutch change too along with the other bits you suggested as it makes sense while its in bits!!! also i expected it to be expensive anyway and with the flywheel, clutch and other parts being available in a kit from roughtrax at £350 its done with piece of mind!

the only other thing engine wise is to get my valve clearences done as they are sounding a little noisy!!! and fingers crossed toyota reliability should get me on the path of reliable motoring!!!!

as for the job in hand do you know if this is something i could do myself if needed be?? if i found all the instruction needed etc or does it require professional knowledge and special tools????

thanks again, im most greatfull

[lord_flashart]

There may be people on here who would disagree but you would ideally have at least 2 people if not 3 and a proper ramp. It's possible to do it yourself I expect but it would take much longer and be much harder, especially if you don't have a ramp and, to be honest, be much more dangerous due to the weight of the gearbox etc., you wouldn't want any of the big components to land on your feet (with a ramp) or on your head/chest (without a ramp).

I did with a friend of mine at his garage and it took a few hours with lots of tea and donuts!!

As for your valve issue I don't know I'm afraid, I've not done anything with those.


Do you want the bearing and oil seal I have? They are £14.10 from Roughtrax + carriage. I'll send 'em out for a tenner as they are brand new and boxed.

Thanks,


Ray.