Head cracked? how do i know

[TonyN]

I have the bracket you need. email me.

[Don Logan]

Jesus, i'm thinking of getting a Surf, but know nothing about mechanics. Does this kind of thing happen often even if the head has been rebuilt or is it all due to the fact that the alternator was loose?

I wouldn't have a clue how to negotiate all that testing stuff, and would end up with a buggered motor or a huge garage bill.

[marky]

Jesus, i'm thinking of getting a Surf, but know nothing about mechanics. Does this kind of thing happen often even if the head has been rebuilt or is it all due to the fact that the alternator was loose?

I wouldn't have a clue how to negotiate all that testing stuff, and would end up with a buggered motor or a huge garage bill.

Buy a 3.0L as they are not as prone JOBS DONE!

[Fatty Smalls]

I second what Marky says, but the 3.0's can still suffer heads cracking ,like any motor. At the end of the day these are old motors and if they aint been looked after then its problems. I walked straight in & brought it after a 15min test drive ,in which time it didnt overheat & drove fine. In hindsight i should of done an AA inspection ,but thought id save £80 .

[Fatty Smalls]

Well the old B******d is overheating again ,volatile super steam bubbles pi$$in out the expansion bottle again. So tightning the belt worked for a while but alas its cooking (cheers to Tony for Bracket). George Stevenson would be proud of my toyota rocket!

Anyways Im gonna scrap it ,but before i do a mate says lets remove head to just check if it is defo a crack. Could anyone give me a run down of the minimal tools needed to complete head remove & refit. As i might wanna drive it thru the geezer's house who sold me it

Decent socket set & spanners
torque wrench
will i require any specialist tools or can i get away the basics and for the refit
is it just new gasket ,head bolts and oil?

Cant find any links for full instructions of head removel ,can anyone point the way or any boffins fancy doin a full write up and posting as a sticky.
Think of the Karma you would get for a fully illustrated head removel & refit guide. Im not the first and sure not to be the last who might need this.


'And if your head explodes with dark forebodings too
I'll see you on the dark side of the moon' Roger Waters- He must of had a Surf 2.4

[stormforce]

basically anything attatched to the head take off.The head bolts are 14mm if i remember rightly.Make sure you got a decent socket set for taking the head bolts out as they will be tight as a tight thing can be.
I stand on the inner wings to lift the head out of position only cause i cant be hassled to use the hoist i got here but is all simple enough really.
You will need a torque wrnch for the refitting proccess tho

[Chillitt]

A few ratchet spanners will make it a lot easier to get the EGR stuff off, but they aren't essential. Oh and something substantial to get the bottom pulley nut off... Have fun!

[Fatty Smalls]

Well head out and no visable cracks ,so going for crack test & Skim at engineer's 2moro.



So i'm back on the merry~go~round of solving the overheating ,and took the head off for nothing.
The water galleries on the head & the block ,the oblong ones which are blocked by the gasket were all full of crud (iron fillings) . So i will flush the block waterways.


So i got some questions

1. Without a compessed air line to blow out the block waterways of crud ,if i flush with water ,how do i not get all the crud & water from going in the cynlinders,oilways & head bolt threads?

2. On testing the crud is magnetic obviously ,do you think it would be a good idea to place a small magnet (maybe inside thermostat housing or bottom rad outlet) to catch the crud ?

3. How to service & refill viscous fan as i dnt think its performing?

4. Them head bolts with their 12 point stars ,i got em off with a standard 14mm socket ,but it was'nt a perfect tight fit .So im concerned that when torquing up i might sheer one off ,so where do you get them exact sockets as a trip to halfords only had 14mm 8 pointstar sockets ?

[Fatty Smalls]

Coolant block drain plug

Head is cracked at valves on cyl1 ,not that i can see it but thats what engineer says. Maybe ill get a new head ,but on checking the block the waterchannels are full of crud. So i removed Block drain plug but nothing came out ,i can see water in waterchannels on top of block. Tried poking a length a coat hanger up the plug hole but its solid. So unless i can clear & flush block i dnt think its worth replacing head.

Has any1 ever got the 17mm nut out of the block what the block plug screws into. As the brass plug came off easy ,but the longer 17mm nut in the block is super tight and maybe locktighted in?