Engine won't start after fuel pump repair

[NickW]

I've had the fuel pump fitted with new seals by a reputable company mentioned on this forum, and I've re-installed the pump, but with everthing back together I can't get it started. It turns over but there's no attempt to fire up.

I don't understand how the injectors work, I can see that fuel is getting to the top of the injectors because I've had several leaks from the top connections. So I'm wondering if it's an electrical fault, maybe a cable could have fractured whilst they were moved around, or maybe I've not put something back correctly. I assume the injectors are opened electrically at just the correct time. There's an electrical connection that is in the middle of the 4 injectors and it connects to what looks like an earth bar.

The other thing I was wondering about is how critical is the rotated position of the pump; I've aligned it to the scribe mark, but how accurate does this have to be, what if it was 1mm out?

Can anyone advise please?

[TobyJug]

I've had the fuel pump fitted with new seals by a reputable company mentioned on this forum, and I've re-installed the pump, but with everthing back together I can't get it started.

I don't understand how the injectors work, I can see that fuel is getting to the top of the injectors because I've had several leaks from the top connections. So I'm wondering if it's an electrical fault, maybe a cable could have fractured whilst they were moved around, or maybe I've not put something back correctly. I assume the injectors are opened electrically at just the correct time. There's an electrical connection that is in the middle of the 4 injectors and it connects to what looks like an earth bar.

The other thing I was wondering about is how critical is the rotated position of the pump; I've aligned it to the scribe mark, but how accurate does this have to be, what if it was 1mm out?

Can anyone advise please?

did u bleed the injectors?

[NickW]

I've pumped the plunger on top of the filter unit. Is there something more to bleeding?

[stormforce]

I've pumped the plunger on top of the filter unit. Is there something more to bleeding?

on the top of the fuel pump there is a 17mm nut.Undo that a bit and then pump the primer again till fuel comes out then tighten the nut again.
Then you need to undo the 17mm or 14mm nut on the injector its self and have someone crank the engine over till fuel is pouring out then do the rest in turn

[TobyJug]

on the top of the fuel pump there is a 17mm nut.Undo that a bit and then pump the primer again till fuel comes out then tighten the nut again.
Then you need to undo the 17mm or 14mm nut on the injector its self and have someone crank the engine over till fuel is pouring out then do the rest in turn

thanks Rich.....


u beat me.....
lol

[little ben]

as you have some1 turn it over, disconnect & reconnect the 12v to the solenoid at the back of the pump, if she still wont fire....open the 8mm nut on the top of the solenoid & remove the wire. Then use a 24mm to turn the bottom of the solenoid housing, (can be done by taking off the tank return pipe).
Take the solenoid out of the pump .diesel will pore out of the hole, dont worry. Also the center pin of the sol. will be there take care it doesnt fall. that centre pin drops into the pump when you switch off the ignition, this stops the flow of fuel to the engine. but if faulty it will drop down when its not spose to! remove the centre pin and re-insert the rest of the sol. back into the pump. give it a turn & if it runs you'll have to stall it in 5th gear to kill the engine, the key could be in your pocket and she'll stay running with out the centre pin!!
if this is the case you need a new sol.

[NiftyNev]

as you have some1 turn it over, disconnect & reconnect the 12v to the solenoid at the back of the pump, if she still wont fire....open the 8mm nut on the top of the solenoid & remove the wire. Then use a 24mm to turn the bottom of the solenoid housing, (can be done by taking off the tank return pipe).
Take the solenoid out of the pump .diesel will pore out of the hole, dont worry. Also the center pin of the sol. will be there take care it doesnt fall. that centre pin drops into the pump when you switch off the ignition, this stops the flow of fuel to the engine. but if faulty it will drop down when its not spose to! remove the centre pin and re-insert the rest of the sol. back into the pump. give it a turn & if it runs you'll have to stall it in 5th gear to kill the engine, the key could be in your pocket and she'll stay running with out the centre pin!!
if this is the case you need a new sol.

He has not got a Fuel Cut Solenoid so should ignore this advice.

Nev

[NiftyNev]

Bleed the injectors as advised above. Injectors are pressure operated not electrical. Also check the glow plug wiring where you have mentioned an earth. This is not an earth and should have insulators to prevent the wiring from eathing to the manifold. If earthed it will blow the glow plug fuse.

Nev

[little ben]

He has not got a Fuel Cut Solenoid so should ignore this advice.

Nev

How come, how does the pump work, is it electrical rather than manual?

[NickW]

Thanks everyone for your help so far, much appreciated!

I've checked the rail to the glow plugs and it is live when the ignition is turned on (I checked the connection at glow plug no.1 too).

I've released the 14mm nut on the top towards the rear of the pump lid (it's on the return line connections) and pumped the primer, and fuel does flow from there. However when I crank the engine on the starter there is no fuel coming from the pipes at the injectors!

The air sensor cable is disconnected from the air filter housing but before the pump was removed the engine did start without this connected.

So I assume this now points to the solonoid not working, maybe due to an electrical fault. This is a Denso pump on a 2.4TD SSR EFI. There's 4 electrical connectors, the top one goes to the top of the solonoid valve (red and black wires), the next 2 are grey and brown connectors, and the other one is the largest white plastic connector (red and black wires) which connects to some where on the back of the pump at low level; Any idea what each of these do?

[NiftyNev]

How come, how does the pump work, is it electrical rather than manual?

Non EFI pumps have a 12V solenoid. EFI have a Spill Control Valve which is controlled by the ECU. It works on a much lower voltage and is quite different to a 12V solenoid. If you remove it you will ned to have the pumo recalibrated.

Nev

[The Ferret]

Might sound daft, but I had exactly the same thing when I did mine. Just wouldn't start. I tried new glow plugs, injector cleaner, alsorts.

Untill we found out that the timing was exactly 180 degrees out!!

As soon as we sorted that, she sparked up first time. I know it's a ball ache to check, but it may be worth it.

Ferret

[NickW]

I've checked the cable that goes to the top of the solonoid valve and there is 2volts at the connector's red wire when the ignition is on, and this drops to 1volt when cranking. Also checked the continuity of the black wire, there are zero ohms between that and earth when ignition is on, which was expected.

[NiftyNev]

Try this -

Disconnect the harness to the SCV and measure the resistance of the SCV

Should be 1-2 ohmms @ 20* C (68*F).

Nev

[NickW]

Try this -

Disconnect the harness to the SCV and measure the resistance of the SCV

Should be 1-2 ohmms @ 20* C (68*F).

Nev

Thanks for the diagram. I've measured the voltage at the live feed to the SCV again with a new digital multimeter and that is giving me 4.6volts. The resistance across the SCV with both meters is zero ohmms.