Help needed

[gemini]

taken from post #1

I unplugged the connector from the loom (I’m not sure where or which Temp sensor fed this?) I doubt if this is relevant, you’ll know if it is?



this seems to have been overlooked and could it be the problem, unplugging connectors from the loom when you dont know what they are is not a good idea

[smithg]

[smithg]

Unplugged Connectors!!

Hi All,
Thanks Ian, you've got me thinking! There was one disconnection I mentioned in my original post. Both an Auto-Elctrician and I had dismissed this as contributary, However, I'll mention it again as its nagging me now!
About 3 weeks before my problem started I fitted a Capillary thermostat, I thought this a good idea before I started towing again. I disconnected the last connector to the electric fan, taped up the feed end, connected the R/H battery through a relay, and the thermo switch to the fan connector. After adjustment this works perfectly, and did so for the 700 + miles until my problem? Does anyone think this may influence the ECU in anyway, enough to make it over-fuel?
Gary.

[gemini]

Hi All,
Thanks Ian, you've got me thinking! There was one disconnection I mentioned in my original post. Both an Auto-Elctrician and I had dismissed this as contributary, However, I'll mention it again as its nagging me now!
About 3 weeks before my problem started I fitted a Capillary thermostat, I thought this a good idea before I started towing again. I disconnected the last connector to the electric fan, taped up the feed end, connected the R/H battery through a relay, and the thermo switch to the fan connector. After adjustment this works perfectly, and did so for the 700 + miles until my problem? Does anyone think this may influence the ECU in anyway, enough to make it over-fuel?
Gary.

if you can i would put things back the way they were and see if it makes any difference, with the pump being electronic anything could be happening

[smithg]

Diesel Pump Timing HELP!!!

“I now have a completely overhauled and re-set pump. After bolting this back on the block, carefully ensuring the marks I made on the pump body and the block lined up exactly, I noticed that when fitted, the sprocket, is now out of position? I took the trouble to mark the shaft and where this corresponded to the casing on removal, as this was not in line when I picked it up? I got the guy in the shop to line it up for me, he told me not to worry, as the important thing is to get the sprocket to line up with the marker as it is spring loaded.

Now call me stupid, but all the info in the workshop manual and the data sheets I have, stress that all the sprockets must line up with the markers before the new belt is fitted. Fine, but the sprocket springs back, and will only settle in four positions and none of these are near the TDC marker? I don’t remember the shaft springing back (anti-clock) when I removed the sprocket, I suppose it could have? Should I position the sprocket with the belt itself? There is no mention of this anywhere!

Or could this mean that the plunger stroke is out? I assumed this would all be set up at the overhaul, do I need to reposition the pump body, and will this get the sprocket to line up? Perhaps the pump fitted in this position, and where I have exactly refitted it, could have been the cause of my troubles all along??

Lots of questions I know, but surely this will finally provide the answer?

Going Mad!

Gary

[Guest]

“I now have a completely overhauled and re-set pump. After bolting this back on the block, carefully ensuring the marks I made on the pump body and the block lined up exactly, I noticed that when fitted, the sprocket, is now out of position? I took the trouble to mark the shaft and where this corresponded to the casing on removal, as this was not in line when I picked it up? I got the guy in the shop to line it up for me, he told me not to worry, as the important thing is to get the sprocket to line up with the marker as it is spring loaded.

Now call me stupid, but all the info in the workshop manual and the data sheets I have, stress that all the sprockets must line up with the markers before the new belt is fitted. Fine, but the sprocket springs back, and will only settle in four positions and none of these are near the TDC marker? I don’t remember the shaft springing back (anti-clock) when I removed the sprocket, I suppose it could have? Should I position the sprocket with the belt itself? There is no mention of this anywhere!

Or could this mean that the plunger stroke is out? I assumed this would all be set up at the overhaul, do I need to reposition the pump body, and will this get the sprocket to line up? Perhaps the pump fitted in this position, and where I have exactly refitted it, could have been the cause of my troubles all along??

Lots of questions I know, but surely this will finally provide the answer?

Going Mad!

Gary

Gary.

When I did mine, because of the spring tension on the pump sprocket I lined up all of the teeth one tooth out, the pump sprocket was set first and the position gained from that.

Cheers

[smithg]

Diesel Pump Timing HELP!!!

Thanks Andy,

Sounds a good alternative! I’ve a couple of questions though? Firstly, the bracket position on the pump (where it was set by the repairers) this would not correspond with the scribe I made, so I undid the central bolt (plunger bolt?) and got the pump to line up exactly as before. Was this not a good idea, as could the sprocket have lined up correctly with the pump in this position? (I’ve not tried moving it as I could not guess that position again) Secondly, the position of the pump sprocket timing marker now lines up on the far edge of the following belt tooth, just before the next sprocket tooth,(retarded?) therefore by turning the sprocket clockwise one tooth the marker would probably align with the edge of the correct tooth (but spring back again). As I agree with your theory, and do not want to set the sprocket against the pump springs pressure I need to wind the cam and crank back anti-clock a tooth + to set everything, does this fit your description? Finally, as ewveryone agrees how critical a tooth can be, will this method definately set the timimng bang-on. Gary.

[Guest]

Thanks Andy,

Sounds a good alternative! I’ve a couple of questions though? Firstly, the bracket position on the pump (where it was set by the repairers) this would not correspond with the scribe I made, so I undid the central bolt (plunger bolt?) and got the pump to line up exactly as before. Was this not a good idea, as could the sprocket have lined up correctly with the pump in this position? (I’ve not tried moving it as I could not guess that position again) Secondly, the position of the pump sprocket timing marker now lines up on the far edge of the following belt tooth, just before the next sprocket tooth,(retarded?) therefore by turning the sprocket clockwise one tooth the marker would probably align with the edge of the correct tooth (but spring back again). As I agree with your theory, and do not want to set the sprocket against the pump springs pressure I need to wind the cam and crank back anti-clock a tooth + to set everything, does this fit your description? Finally, as ewveryone agrees how critical a tooth can be, will this method definately set the timimng bang-on. Gary.

Got it exactly, everything back one tooth anticlockwise and then fit the belt. You can then set the tensioner (loosen the bolt so that the tensioner springs back) then turn over the engine on the bottom crank bolt a couple of times, you will then see if the timing is spot on once the belt has settled, the tensioner is in the correct position and with the crank timing mark in the correct position, then everything will be lined up. Finally tighten the tensioner bolt and reassemble.

Cheers

[smithg]

I wish I hadn't done that!!!

Hi all,
Timing sorted, absolutely spot on,But.....! To originally check the timing (pre-pump overhaul) I screwed the crank pulley bolt straight into the shaft without washers or spacers! several turns to check, then many more once the new O.E. belt and spring were fitted and I've got a very tight crankshaft bolt surprisingly...Doh! I 've locked up the Cam and Pump at TDC again, and tried gentle pressure, but I need to lock-up or grip the shaft key somehow? I thought of grips but they'll muller the key and surface! Is there a tool that can be applied to the key? My Surf is Auto, and my garage to small for me to get to the flexi-plate/ring gear, has anyone any ideas?
Gary.

[smithg]

Same Problem!!!!!

Hi all,
I hope I can get you all thinking this time as the problem is the same!
All put back together: new O.E. timing belt and spring, timing checked 14 TIMES! when I fitted the new Crankshaft sprocket this had a white line on the outside, which seemed to want to line up with the metal pointer? as the line was just short of the pointer I took the cover off again only to find that the proper marker (cut out"V" just behind the pulley key) on the inside of the pulley still lined up correctly . I re-checked this several times and on every complete turn all markers were absolutely spot on. I've had the pump overhauled and re-set (£278.00!) and replaced several heater hoses and clips that looked tired. After bleeding out the air,she started third pull!
And everthing is as before; Oil pressure perfect, engine runs smoothly but this "knocking" is still there!!! I am going to try to get a genuine expert who definately can distinguish Diesel knock to listen to the engine, as I am thinking about camshaft shims and allsorts now! Remember this engine has only covered 4,000km and has run perfect up to when she cut out (at less than 2.2k revs) any ideas? N/B The fuel theory is out as after warming her up I disconnected the tank and run her on a can of new bog standard "Tesco Diesel" and the knocking was exactly the same! I also disconnected the batteries for half an hour to re-set the ECU and ran her on the Tesco Diesel for 10 minutes again but no joy. HELP PLEASE!!!!
Gary.

[Homer]

Has it got EGR? See the 'Fault Finders needed' thread sounds vaguely similar. Just a thought.

[JimL]

when I fitted the new Crankshaft sprocket this had a white line on the outside, which seemed to want to line up with the metal pointer? as the line was just short of the pointer I took the cover off again only to find that the proper marker (cut out"V" just behind the pulley key) on the inside of the pulley still lined up correctly

if you turn the brightness up on your screen to max, you can just see the V notch on mine, and no white line

**edit** thinking more bout that I remember there was a white mark and I pencilled it out on the sprocket coz it marked nothing and was a distraction from the true mark

[smithg]

I may have the answer!!!!!!

Thanks for the replies,
JimL, yes I agree with you and can confirm that the "V" in your picture is the one I used to align the crank, the white marker is on the main pulley that I replaced (£107.00!),this sits on the outside of the timing belt cover, after all the sprockets have been concealed. As the pointer becomes the only marker visable at this stage my wandering mind thought these should line up?
Homer, I shall endeavour to find out if my Surf has EGR? I think it has as I remember seeing fuses or relays relating to this. Oh yeah, what does EGR stand for? I've got the full picture with the EFI and the ECT functions, but not EGR?
Before I go down the EGR route what do you think to this theory?
When I put the re-con Engine together I used the original Diesel pump, this was set at TDI by my pal, and all seemed fine for 4k (as my story goes) what he did'nt do, or either of us were aware of, was the pump timing!!!! Apparently this is crucial, particulary as there was nothing to line up the pump body with on the new block!!! My Denso electronic pump has some timing markers on the body but the new lump has nothing to correspond with!
Now my theory is= we got almost lucky installing the pump and it was only slightly out, but not enough to stop the advance & retard, knock sensors & ECU from compensating. However, once I put the advanced fuel in, THEN loaded up my caravan for the first time BINGO! Fuel cut-out cuts in and the Diesel knock appears? I am aware there is a special tool and a dial gauge needed to set this up, and of course the settings which are not going to be the same as in my (sometimes helpful!) Aussie manual. Can anyone help?
I know I'm in for a few days dismantling again, but this could be the answer!!
Gary.

[gemini]

Thanks for the replies,
JimL, yes I agree with you and can confirm that the "V" in your picture is the one I used to align the crank, the white marker is on the main pulley that I replaced (£107.00!),this sits on the outside of the timing belt cover, after all the sprockets have been concealed. As the pointer becomes the only marker visable at this stage my wandering mind thought these should line up?
Homer, I shall endeavour to find out if my Surf has EGR? I think it has as I remember seeing fuses or relays relating to this. Oh yeah, what does EGR stand for? I've got the full picture with the EFI and the ECT functions, but not EGR?
Before I go down the EGR route what do you think to this theory?
When I put the re-con Engine together I used the original Diesel pump, this was set at TDI by my pal, and all seemed fine for 4k (as my story goes) what he did'nt do, or either of us were aware of, was the pump timing!!!! Apparently this is crucial, particulary as there was nothing to line up the pump body with on the new block!!! My Denso electronic pump has some timing markers on the body but the new lump has nothing to correspond with!
Now my theory is= we got almost lucky installing the pump and it was only slightly out, but not enough to stop the advance & retard, knock sensors & ECU from compensating. However, once I put the advanced fuel in, THEN loaded up my caravan for the first time BINGO! Fuel cut-out cuts in and the Diesel knock appears? I am aware there is a special tool and a dial gauge needed to set this up, and of course the settings which are not going to be the same as in my (sometimes helpful!) Aussie manual. Can anyone help?
I know I'm in for a few days dismantling again, but this could be the answer!!
Gary.

heres the egr

[Guest]

Thanks for the replies,
JimL, yes I agree with you and can confirm that the "V" in your picture is the one I used to align the crank, the white marker is on the main pulley that I replaced (£107.00!),this sits on the outside of the timing belt cover, after all the sprockets have been concealed. As the pointer becomes the only marker visable at this stage my wandering mind thought these should line up?
Homer, I shall endeavour to find out if my Surf has EGR? I think it has as I remember seeing fuses or relays relating to this. Oh yeah, what does EGR stand for? I've got the full picture with the EFI and the ECT functions, but not EGR?
Before I go down the EGR route what do you think to this theory?
When I put the re-con Engine together I used the original Diesel pump, this was set at TDI by my pal, and all seemed fine for 4k (as my story goes) what he did'nt do, or either of us were aware of, was the pump timing!!!! Apparently this is crucial, particulary as there was nothing to line up the pump body with on the new block!!! My Denso electronic pump has some timing markers on the body but the new lump has nothing to correspond with!
Now my theory is= we got almost lucky installing the pump and it was only slightly out, but not enough to stop the advance & retard, knock sensors & ECU from compensating. However, once I put the advanced fuel in, THEN loaded up my caravan for the first time BINGO! Fuel cut-out cuts in and the Diesel knock appears? I am aware there is a special tool and a dial gauge needed to set this up, and of course the settings which are not going to be the same as in my (sometimes helpful!) Aussie manual. Can anyone help?
I know I'm in for a few days dismantling again, but this could be the answer!!
Gary.

Gary.

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation and doesn't have any fuses. It is a vacuum activated unit which under certain engine conditions recirculates exhaust gas into the combustion cycle. The reason for this is that the inert gas in the Exhaust lowers the combustion efficiency and reduces the temperature of burn to below the temp that Nitrogen Oxides are formed. It is purely a emission control function.

If you do a search for EGR on here you will find a number of posts and some pictures showing where it is.

Cheers