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  • Two questions

    Q1. How easy is it to change the front crankshaft oil seal? Will I have to drop the sump after pulling off the bottom pulley?

    Q2. Is there anyone out there that has a 2.4 TD engine out of the engine bay? If there is, is there any chance you could pull out the "knock sensor/crankshaft sensor". I am trying to find out what the sensor is actually sensing. Is it a proximity sensor detecting the teeth on a gear being driven? Or is it a knock sensor that detects an actual knock.

    The reason I ask Q2 is that I fitted an engine that does not have the hole in the block for the sensor that sends a signal to the fuel injection pump. Because of this there is no turbo boost on my truck. I have put up with this for a year but the lack of power is getting me down now. I am looking for a way of fooling the sensor, but the timing has to be correct. Maybe some of you hardened DIY masters could shed some light on this sensor. I really can not get enough money out of my wife to get a new engine (unless there is a kind chap or chapess out there that wants to swap a short engine for a short ammount of cash........) Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Might make myself look like an arse with this, but I thought the knock sensor
    controlled fuel pump timing, not turbo boost.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by chasharman
      Q1. How easy is it to change the front crankshaft oil seal? Will I have to drop the sump after pulling off the bottom pulley?

      Q2. Is there anyone out there that has a 2.4 TD engine out of the engine bay? If there is, is there any chance you could pull out the "knock sensor/crankshaft sensor". I am trying to find out what the sensor is actually sensing. Is it a proximity sensor detecting the teeth on a gear being driven? Or is it a knock sensor that detects an actual knock.

      The reason I ask Q2 is that I fitted an engine that does not have the hole in the block for the sensor that sends a signal to the fuel injection pump. Because of this there is no turbo boost on my truck. I have put up with this for a year but the lack of power is getting me down now. I am looking for a way of fooling the sensor, but the timing has to be correct. Maybe some of you hardened DIY masters could shed some light on this sensor. I really can not get enough money out of my wife to get a new engine (unless there is a kind chap or chapess out there that wants to swap a short engine for a short ammount of cash........) Thanks in advance.
      Tony is looking into doing my front crank shaft oil seal at the mo as part of a cambelt change
      www.daemon4x4.org

      Comment


      • #4
        Contact Jotto as he may have a bottom end from his 2.4 EFI for sale .
        Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!

        Comment


        • #5
          I'd be interested in the answer to Q1 as well. Mine is currently keeping the front crossmember from going rusty but it's going to need sorting sooner or later.
          Roger

          My Pointer ate the dog trainer

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          • #6
            oil leak

            My oil leak is doing more than stopping rust, it is getting me banned from visiting anyone with a lovely new loc-bloc drive, ( sorry Mike). Everyone at work knows which spaces I have parked in, and I have been given my own space round the side now, he-he.
            My excuses ammount to " I am only returning some oil back into the ground, so that future generations can dig it up when there is none left"...

            Comment


            • #7
              a knock sensor detects detonation or pre ignition and then adjusts the timing in accordance. a crank angle sensor controls the ignition timing or in the case of a diesel , the fuel pump/ injectors. i think this is correct, certainly the case with petrol engines.
              665 the neighbour of the beast

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              • #8
                Crank seal requires removing all components associated with a timing belt change as well as the crankshaft gear. No need to remove sump. Make sure you order a seal to match your vehicles model and frame numbers because there was two different seals used during this period of production.

                Crank angle sensor gets a signal from a protusion on number one con rod and controls timing etc through the ECU. Without this and the coolant sensor, which is also not on a 2L-T, it will never run properly.

                Nev
                Last edited by NiftyNev; 3 August 2006, 01:20.

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                • #9
                  much thanks

                  thanks for the replys guys, looks like another engine for me .
                  at least I might not have to fix the oil leak now, might just replace bash plate with a large catch plate with built in sump and drain.

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