ALternator charge lead

[MattF]

Surf's dont like 15-20 miles an hour backwards with half lock and 'normal' suspension mode.

I'll add that one to the 'never do this' list then.

[andy_enuff]

Some pics attached! Never do this! I bought a new body shell in the end (see post here re that. I'm going to break the old one eventually, when I get time. Engine still works fine etc, just no bodywork!

[andy_enuff]

To add some more info to the original thread topic, I have done some more testing (with a smaller relay and the original) after removing the instrument panel and taking out the cards that make the symbols for the warning lamps.

Now it is clear that when the ignition is on and the immobiliser is not armed, there is a feint glow from the battery light and also oil light and of course temporarily the heater plug light. Anyone any ideas how i can make this work, it's preventing me doing ANYTHING else with the electrics

[MattF]

Now it is clear that when the ignition is on and the immobiliser is not armed, there is a feint glow from the battery light and also oil light and of course temporarily the heater plug light. Anyone any ideas how i can make this work, it's preventing me doing ANYTHING else with the electrics

What voltage is actually at the second battery isolation
relay coil when the ignition is on but the engine isn't
running?

[andy_enuff]

About 10.5V. If I take out the charge fuse and measure each of the contacts I get 12 volts ish on the dash side of the fuseholder and 1.5v ish on the alternator side. If the fuse is left in and I measure from relay coil to earth its 10.5v

[andy_enuff]

any more thoughts?

[MattF]

any more thoughts?

Without knowing the in's and out's of how the alternator
works, nope. Unless, of course, you're willing to modify
things a bit? Should be possible to add an extra few
gubbins so that the relay wouldn't be powered unless
the voltage was >12V.

[andy_enuff]

I don't mind modyfying, did you mean something like a breakdown diode?

[MattF]

I don't mind modyfying, did you mean something like a breakdown diode?

A zener would be a quick hack, but it would work.
Depends upon how reliable you want it to be.

[andy_enuff]

I've had another look at this problem and have some more info to add.

I've disconnected all the split charge wiring. The dash lights now don't come on at all when the engine is immobilised and the ignition is in 'run' with the engine stopped. The engine runs fine, the alternator charges fine, but I was under the impression that all the dash lights should be lit. Any more ideas Matt?

[andy_enuff]

Has anyone got a pic of a pre face lift LN130 ALternator wiring, something can't be right with this one since I changed the engine, surely?