Noisy Cam

[Scuddy]

Sorry, didn't make myself quite clear, merely quoting the Haynes manual who term the tool a 'valve lifter'. Really should be known as a bucket tappet depressor as it compresses the bucket whilst levering off the cam, so you can get the shims out without having to remove the cam.
Like you say, I've had a play on the old head and removed the cam, quick, small spray of WD40 onto offending bucket, wait a bit and gently 'wiggle' a stanley blade into bucket recess, popped out the shims a treat. Quick clean up and they look in good condition, no evidence of scoring or dishing, so I'll be looking to measure up with a micrometer and re-use.

I was hoping to get the shims on the new head out without having to access the crank pulley and slackening cam belt/opening cam, mostly 'cos I've never attemped it before with the cam 'in-situ'. Guess it cant be too difficult though?? I'll have to do it this way if I can't get me mits on the bucket depressing tool.

Cheers
Scuddy

[Caly]

I have a similier knocking after having a new head fitted with existing cams and valve gear. It is not to bad, but after reading this I am a bit concerned.

I do not want to take it back to the garage where I had the head done. Can any one recommend a trustworthy, good mechanic in the Gloucester, Wiltshire, Avon areas or within a reasonable travelling distance from Cirencester in Glos.
John

[tonymz]

I hear some kind of knocking on my engine while idling but I can't really tell when moving because of the turbo whistling noise. what do I look for?

[Smurf]

Scuddy
It is fairly time consuming to get the belt slackened off but it isnt at all difficult, just ensure the timing marks are all aligned when it goes back together and you should have no problems.

[Scuddy]

Smurf
Your right, the cam will have to come up to get the shims out. The tool referenced in the Haynes manual is a Toyota special SST 09248-64011. I'm sure the stealership (if they have one) will want the wife and kids as a ransom for it's safe return..hmmm

[Smurf]

I cant see how you can depress the bucket and then remove the shim as the tool would surely be pressing down on it?? I would have thought the best way is to measure all then remove cam and re-shim.At least that way you dont have to re-connect belt and turn engine over till you know they are all correct, but do turn the crank 90 degrees from TDC when turning cam to check clearances otherwise you may push valves into pistons. Sorry if you already knew that but its an easy mistake to make and an expensive one.

[Scuddy]

If you check the attachment on one of my posts on the first page of this thread, there's a diagram of the tool from the Haynes. It pushes on the lip of the bucket only, leaving the shim free, must be well strong to do this.
Thanks for the tip on the crank, I may well have overlooked it and wondered why I couldnt turn the cam as I'm swinging on the end of a 24" spanner OUCH

[stevo]

cam tool

We use a similar type of cam follower depressing tool, it was bought years ago for the Volkswagen engines with shim tappets, it works ok on the Surf tappets you should be able to get the tool through Partco, if not get a mate to push down hard on the edge of the cam bucket with a big flat screwdriver whils't you flip the shim out with a fine screwdriver ( you will see a small cut out in the cam bucket, prise out the shim there and manouvre it out with a magnet )
Cheers, Steve.

[Smurf]

Correct sequence to avoid any valve damage should be cam out, turn crank 90deg, cam back on, do all shims and measurements etc ie turn cam as much as you want, when all is correct set cam at TDC and turn crank back 90deg to original position ie reverse direction to original turn, do little adjustments to position to get all timing points re-aligned not forgetting the pump,put belt back on and re-tension.

[kevb]

ok u dont need a speical tool!
hammer a screwdriver in on the side of the bucket(not the tappet)and use a small screwdriver to pop up shim and lift out.measure shim with micrometer and select shim of appropiate size.thats all there is to it!

[kevb]

sorry spelt spiecal wrong cant remember write way to spell

[Scuddy]

Correct sequence to avoid any valve damage should be cam out, turn crank 90deg, cam back on, do all shims and measurements etc ie turn cam as much as you want, when all is correct set cam at TDC and turn crank back 90deg to original position ie reverse direction to original turn, do little adjustments to position to get all timing points re-aligned not forgetting the pump,put belt back on and re-tension.

I take it the 90 degree turn of the crank is required to bring cylinders down to a level where it's impossible to strike with a valve when rotating cam independent of crank?

[Smurf]

Yep, will put all 4 pistons at roughly 1/2 way down/up the bore.

[wibblywobbly]

Shims

If it is any help I used to change the shims on motorcycle engines when I did my own servicing etc. The cheapest tool was a 'c' spanner (the sort that comes free in a motorcycle tool kit for suspension preload adjustment) with the notch filed off. Just slide the narrow end under the cam and push down on the lip of the bucket. Acres of room to get the shim out that way.

Just a quick question. Are we discussing deisel knock here or tappet clatter? My 3.0 has the traditional deisel knock at tickover and when cold, but once warm and on the move it vanishes. I am now wondering whether this noise can be eliminated by adjusting the clearances?

Cheers

Rob G