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**POPEYE** · 28 July 2017, 09:24

I take it the existing 4in body lift has been done properly ie;- metal added to the steering shaft, the hi-lo lever the fuel hose from the filler cap pipe to the tank etc?
Getting the back up to 6in on body and sus will be a major task, backs not so bad but the front I'm not sure!, it's gonna throw all the tracking, caster and camber out a lot, not impossible but be prepared for spending a few bob, not too sure you'd get 6in without having to replace wishbones, best to ask one of the professional customizers, there was one I cant remember the name of who undertake stuff like this (for a hefty price)
Basicly there no limit if moneys no object, look at the professional monster trucks that you see at shows, then there the law!! if cops think it looks dangerous on a public road they will be on ya I'd go for a 2in sus lift along with the 4 on the body making 6in all told, much easier and DIY affordable, and will look the b0ll0cks

**RebelV8** · 29 July 2017, 01:09

Yeah, the existing 4 inch lift has been done properly, it was already done when I bought it. It works well, the body lift makes it look good and leaves the centre of gravity where Toyota designed it, so you can throw it into a corner without worrying about it too much, lol.
That one is staying as it is though.
The other one, I was thinking I'd see how far I could go with it.
Happy with the idea of it being a major task and not too concerned about having to work through any problems it throws up. I'd love to do a full on monster truck version but know they're not road legal over here. However, as 44 inch tyres are road legal ( even though the price of a set of them alone would give my bank manager a heart attack, lol )
Admittedly the amount of cash it would take could be an issue, although I wasn't planning on doing it in a weekend or a few months. Taking a chance with the law could be fun as well, might investigate your suggestion of 2 inch and 4 inch though and see where it takes me.
Thanks for replying with sound advice

**POPEYE** · 29 July 2017, 09:49

No worries, and good luck with it, fitting land cruiser rear springs will get you about 3in of lift at the back, but you will need a pair of alloy or hard plastic top mounting rings so they sit properly, to get the same at the front 2in blocks under the top wishbones and crank up the torsion bars an inch will level it out (mine looks a bit arse end high as I never touched the bars)

for 2in blocks you will need to disc cut some metal under the wishbones to get them in flush but not too bad a job, if it's any help I have some pics of when I did mine and also the drawing for the front spacers measurements etc let me know and i'll look em out,

**Predictable Bob** · 29 July 2017, 12:50

Was the guy you're thinking about Surfenstein or summat similar ? I think his name's Andy and he lives down in the west country somewhere. Woodsie will probably know more

**POPEYE** · 29 July 2017, 16:07

Originally posted by Predictable Bob View Post

Was the guy you're thinking about Surfenstein or summat similar ? I think his name's Andy and he lives down in the west country somewhere. Woodsie will probably know more

No Bob, there was a company that did it, I know surfinstein started up as well, think it was called "outrageous 4x4" but yes he would be prob the best to ask,

**RebelV8** · 30 July 2017, 01:13

Originally posted by POPEYE View Post

No worries, and good luck with it, fitting land cruiser rear springs will get you about 3in of lift at the back, but you will need a pair of alloy or hard plastic top mounting rings so they sit properly, to get the same at the front 2in blocks under the top wishbones and crank up the torsion bars an inch will level it out (mine looks a bit arse end high as I never touched the bars)

for 2in blocks you will need to disc cut some metal under the wishbones to get them in flush but not too bad a job, if it's any help I have some pics of when I did mine and also the drawing for the front spacers measurements etc let me know and i'll look em out,

Yeah, I'd love to see the pics, thanks

**POPEYE** · 30 July 2017, 12:04

OK , I cant find the spacer drawing which gives you the measurements you'll need, when I opened the file it's full of other crap so don't know what happened there, i'll keep looking in case it's got moved to another file when my lad changed my pc or perhaps someone else has it as it was posted many times here in the past,
hope these pics help, also did some write ups when I did it and cant bl00dy find them either,
basicly loosen up the top ball joint stud nuts and the big castle nut, make sure you on a nice flat surface, hard stand or garage floor, jack up on the frame so both front wheels are off the deck, find or make some strong steel bars (like the pics) and fit them under the top wishbone so they done shoot out when you lower the jack, as the frame/chassis come down the bars will keep all the weight on the top bones, kake the lower wishbone weight with another jack and remove the top ball joint, you'll need to lever the bone down with a long breaker bar to part the joint, (it also helps to remove the shock absorbers,
One the joins out hammer out the studs, have a good clean up and offer up the spacer, you'll see where metal on the underside of the bone is going to foul on the spacer, so disc cut gradually metal away till the spacer fits nice and flush to the underside of the wishbone, it pays now to either fit new upright grease nipples or extensions for the old ones so you can get a grease gun on em, fit the spacers with new longer high tensile bolts and lock nuts, refit the bJ into the swivel and refit the castle nut and a new split pin, that's it just about, grease up and put the new plus 2" shocks on,

the back is pretty easy, an old f~~ker like me can do it on my own I'm sure you'll have no trouble, again loosen both top arm bolts, jack up the chassis till the wheels are well off the deck, support the axel so as to remover the bolts already loosened up and anything else so the axel can drop down as far as it can, by this point the old springs will fall out,
With the axel free to drop and be able to be levered down (I used a length of 4x2) push the axel down and insert the new LC springs and top mounts, letting the pressure off the axel should keep them in place, jack up the axel and refit the top radious arm bolts, fit new plus 3" shocks and either alter the panhard rod or fit an adjustable one, have the truck back on it's own weight for seeing how much to cut and lenghted it, I just cut it through midway, found some steel bar that was a good fit into the rod (there hollow tube in fact) refitted it and saw that there was about 15mm of the insert showing, tack weld it so it wont move and remove and completely weld all round, I cleaned the welddown and painted it but no reall need if you aint fussy, make up brackets to lift the brake load compensator unit and n/s support and a new longer brake hose. about it!

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