Slippy auto?

[MudSurfer]

Hi all, seems that the manifold was only part of the problem. When cold, putting the truck into reverse, it takes several seconds of high revving for it to go backwards, much less for forward travel, but still a little more than before.

It is a very soft move into reverse, clearly slipping. When it's hot and you go into reverse, if you try to move straight away it almost snaps into gear and moves away no problem at all. If you select reverse and wait a second before moving, it's fine.

ATF is ok, I added a litre yesterday but it's made no difference.

Is it a case of replacing parts or swapping the whole unit?

TIA.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Did you disconnect the transmission cable at all? Could be a line pressure problem.
Make sure the little rubber marker on the inner cable is just visible at the adjuster on the throttle body.
Lurching into gear is usually due to a low fluid level, you know to check the ATF level with the engine idling, right?

[MudSurfer]

Correct on idle check. I'll look at the rest over the weekend, as it's likely I'll be too drunk to see from about an hour from now till Saturday morning. Got any pics of what I need to check? I didn't disconnect the cable though.

Cheers Vince and have a cracking Christmas

[surfenstein]

Andy I know you lost all but a smidge of your fluid when the hose burst.It is possible that you may of got debris in the gearbox trans filter and or there is some debris trapped around the gear select solenoids.

[MudSurfer]

I'll get it up in the air and drop the lot and give the filter a clean. Then see what I can do to check the solenoids. It does seem to feel like it slips ever so slightly in D but gear changes up and down seem good and smooth.

I'll give it a good look over on Saturday or Sunday. Cheers to you too Mark. Have a lovely Christmas and Happy New year

[MudSurfer]

OK, ATF drained out, and there is less than I thought there would be, I'm pretty sure I put in at least 5 litres....taken less than that out, maybe 4 4 1/2?

Anyway, it's all dark grey, despite most of it being new. Also, are there supposed to be magnets on the bottom of the sump tray?

I've taken them out and cleaned them, as they were covered in metal debris. I'm now going to take the filter out and clean that all up, make a new gasket and stick it all back together, then pop to Halfrauds for more ATF to refill.

Another job I've never done....nice. (not the Halfords bit, I've been there loads)

[surfenstein]

You would of pumped most of the oil out of the torque convertor when the pipe split so that would of taken a good few ltrs of oil to fill on its own.Likewise when you drain the oil at least 4ltrs will still be in the torque convertor. Magnets are fitted for that exact purpose to collect metal particles and keep them from harms way.

[Jameswallace]

Sorry to hijack but dont want to start a new thread for such a simple question, but what did you use to re seal the pan on the gearbox (and what quantity is required..?)

Thanks

[surfenstein]

Sorry to hijack but dont want to start a new thread for such a simple question, but what did you use to re seal the pan on the gearbox (and what quantity is required..?)

Thanks

You can use any high temp gasket sealant.prefferably a silicone based sealant.The trick is to get everything clean and de greased. I use standard gun cleaner thinners for this.

[MudSurfer]

I used loctite instant gasket, black silicone rated to a constant 200 degrees. I spent a good while making sure the old gasket was fully removed and cleaned out.

The filter I cleaned out with injector cleaner, cleaned the magnets off fully, degrease the sump pan and cleaned the selector solenoids with electrical contact cleaner to make sure all the old atf was out.

It's all back together now and will be filling it tomorrow.

Fingers crossed it won't all be knackered after that. ..

[MudSurfer]

OK, just checking over before the road test, going through the gears and topping up as needed, noticed that going from N to R, fine, D to N fine, R to N there is a 'clank' from somewhere.

Tried it several times to rule out external sounds, each time I go from R to N there is a light 'clank' sound. All other gears are fine, D to N, nothing.

Going to road test now and see how I get on.

Right - forwards we are in good shape, nice smooth changes, plenty of power, very slight hesitation to kick down, but can't remember if it's always been like that.

Still snatching at reverse though, leave it a second before moving and it's fine, but select and go straight away, it will rev a bit, then snatch into gear and go.

Checked the ATF level and it's slightly over the hot mark having just blatted up and down our road, so don't see it as being related to the fluid level being too low.

Vince - I still don't quite know what I need to look at re. cables and rubber marks, just to make sure I've checked that too.

As above, forward gears are fine, reverse is fine once you've waited a second, literally a second though, so no big deal. Then there is the 'clank'.

[surfenstein]

Does the truck shudder when it goes into reverse with the clank.. btw well done on changing and cleaning filters and fluid.lol

[surfenstein]

Vince is reffering to the kickdown cable adjustment at the manifold throttle body.

[MudSurfer]

Does the truck shudder when it goes into reverse with the clank.. btw well done on changing and cleaning filters and fluid.lol

Cheers mate - and there is a very slight shudder, more of one when going from N to D though.

No clank into reverse, it's coming from R to N that it clanks, it's fairly quiet, had to turn the radio off to make sure it was coming from the truck.

It may be the exhaust, it's all new now, and it the right place....dunno

[MudSurfer]

Vince is reffering to the kickdown cable adjustment at the manifold throttle body.

Manifold throttle body - silvery thing with wheely bit on the side?

Kickdown cable??? There are two cables, which one are you referring to, and what do I need to look at to check whether or not it's in the right place?