Can my multi mode 4wd 3rd gen be modified to stop the centre diff locking when low ratio is used? As in, can I fit a switch to control when diff lock is used rather than it automatically engaging. So low ratio can be used on tarmac when towing etc.
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Also a rear electronic diff lock was an optional extra.
I actually have the information on my PC somewhere, as part of the transfer box service manual... I'll look it up
What I don't know is how good it is for long term and higher/road speed and prolonged use at that speed, as its really made for low speed crawling.
I'm not sure how the temperatures will go...
I did calculate that on diesel gearing, on 33s, it'll top out in 4th just under 100 on the redline of the V8.... If it doesn't go bang, I'd imagine it'd get there pretty fast!Last edited by Karma Supra; 13 August 2014, 00:29.More Lift.
More Tyres.
More Engine.
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Yeah the torque must near double by the feel of it. Ha ha. I want to have the option of unlocking the diff for moving trailers around the farm yard and low speed crawling about when on dirt tracks and diff lock is not needed. Just now I have to do these things in high ratio and low ratio would make it easier on the car at least.
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Shouldn't harm the truck unless you move more weight than it can handle.
Putting your foot down hard while in high gear puts lots of stress on the crank and gearbox while doing it in a low gear moves that stress out to the drive shafts and axles however a lack of grip normally saves them from damage as you get wheel spin.
Just think of it like riding a bike, you can feel the pain in your legs in to high a gear!
If you have massive grippy tyres or a big trailer on the back you might suffer some damage in low range, but one would assume that you will be taking it easy in those cases.
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Originally posted by popuptoaster View PostShouldn't harm the truck unless you move more weight than it can handle.
Putting your foot down hard while in high gear puts lots of stress on the crank and gearbox while doing it in a low gear moves that stress out to the drive shafts and axles however a lack of grip normally saves them from damage as you get wheel spin.
Just think of it like riding a bike, you can feel the pain in your legs in to high a gear!
If you have massive grippy tyres or a big trailer on the back you might suffer some damage in low range, but one would assume that you will be taking it easy in those cases.
Cheers
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How boggy do your yards get? We use our 3rd gen all over the place on ours, and our Paj, and we have only needed to engage L4 once when moving cattle at the height of the floods when the fields were so boggy we started to struggle with the trailer. Most of the time, with a decent set of ATs on the Surf and MTs on the Paj, they go anywhere in H2 or H4 on tricky bits, I doubt you'd need to do any mods, just use as is and make sure your tyres are up to it.Too old to care, young enough to remember
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Originally posted by MudSurfer View PostHow boggy do your yards get? We use our 3rd gen all over the place on ours, and our Paj, and we have only needed to engage L4 once when moving cattle at the height of the floods when the fields were so boggy we started to struggle with the trailer. Most of the time, with a decent set of ATs on the Surf and MTs on the Paj, they go anywhere in H2 or H4 on tricky bits, I doubt you'd need to do any mods, just use as is and make sure your tyres are up to it.
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Anyone got an idea on this? Am I best to put an inline switch on positive or earth wire between the gear lever and transfer case? Going to have a look at doing it this weekend at some point. Just a basic toggle switch on the dash is all I'm thinking of using. Any further info or ideas would be great.
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Originally posted by Dobbslc View PostIf it's just a solenoid that shunts the diff lock then it won't matter which wire + or - that you switch.
Just make sure it's rated high enough to handle the current. 20amps?
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