Brake Problem

[Morr]

......In time I intend to replace both front pads & rear shoes, and bleed the whole system, maybe replacing any flexi hoses with braided steel lines, and maybe painting the calipers and drums (yeah, I know - bling bling) but that's a while away......Mark

From way back in the first post on this thread, I see you were considering replacing your brake lines with braided ones. Despite the improvement these would make, it may not be the best idea as I have been led to believe that the NCT here in Ireland will fail you for having these. According to what I've heard, as the testers cannot see thru to the inner rubber line to check for cracking they will fail you on brake lines!.
I don't know this from personal experience, and it may be incorrect, but its something to check out before you shell out, altough I think you'll be shelling out enough on discs etc for the moment.

Hope you get you brake sorted and are back on the road soon.

[NiftyNev]

Obviously I need to fit new discs, pads and dust boots. I'm going to order them from Milner this morning.

Mark

While you're are there get the piston seals a well.I think you may need them.

Neville

[silvtr1000]

I ordered 2 discs, 2 pairs of pads, 2 new fitting kits (£3 - how could I not?) and a repair kit for both calipers (piston seals & dust boots).

And I couldn't resist a new pair of rear springs...

The whole lot comes to about €220 excl delivery. I'm sure Mrs 1000 won't give me too much gyp, given that this'll all mean I should make it home alive whenever I get out in it.

I was supposed to be going fishing next Sunday. Now I'll be working on this lot. Still, there's satisfaction in doing the work and knowing it's done.

Anyone know if the old discs are hard to get off?

An ex-apprentice mechanic workmate reckons I should just beat a tight-fitting 12-point socket over the stuck locknuts and use force to turn them off - any thoughts?

I'll keep y'all posted.

Mark

[Chillitt]

last time i had work done on my car i forgot to tell the chap where the dohicky was for the locking wheel nuts. i popped back later to tell him and found him doing just that - pummelling an old socket over the locker...er.. so it must be right...well it worked, anyway..

[TonyN]

[QUOTE=laser_jock@work]

Then press the brake pedal to push the pistons out, you'll see the sticky one, it wont want to come out, one you've pushed it out, plenty of WD40 and push it in, then pump it out and repeat till it comes out freely.

NEVER use WD or similar petroleum based products to clean brake components- you will wreck the seals. DOT 4 fluid as used in the Surf is glycol based and mineral oils are NOT compatible with the seal materials used. Use only clean brake fluid or approved cleaning solvents.

More wisdom on brake fluids here:

http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml

Nevillef

I KNOW, but the pistons are rusted in and needed getting out some how, there no point in being nice to seals, they'll be repaced after the caliper is stripped anyway. As I've already pointed out on page 1 of this thread!

Your way to late for the 'correct Tony' bus, have another go on a different thread.

[da SLUG man]

http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/forums/att...achmentid=9760

no wonder... that thumb is totally inadequate to stop a surf!

[mart 870]

If you still cant get your locking wheel nuts off Halfords sell a locking wheel nut remover, it looks like a socket but has a lefthand thread on the inside. You hammer the remover on and turn it anticlockwise as if you were undoing the wheel nut as normal, the more you turn it the more it grips onto the wheel nut until it loosens it. I`ve got a set which i have to use sometimes when "forgetfull" custmers loose there wheel nut keys.

Instead of braided hoses you can get kevlar ones, they look like normal rubber ones (i.e. your mot tester can check for cracks properly) but they have the strengh of braided ones, plus you can get them in lots of lovely colours lol.

If you go for braided lines try your local hydraulic hose factors, i use them for the brake lines on the stock car and they only charge £10 a line.

[silvtr1000]

RE: Tony/WD40 - in this case, given that the seals were most likely going to be replaced anyway, and that WD40 is a better penetrant than brake cleaner, the advice to use WD40 to free the stuck pistons was, in my opinion, sound. Tony did refer to my mention that the seals would have been replaced in the future: thus, no harm done.

RE: Thumb - I was contemplating not posting the pic with my thumb in it, or even editing the thumb out. I thought the thumb looked a bit skinny, maybe more like a finger (albiet one on a deformed or double-jointed hand). However I am satisfied that in real life my thumb is a fine size, and quite proportianate to the rest of me. If anyone needs any pics of my thumb being compared with other items, please send me a pm.

RE: Locking wheel nuts - Last night I hit them really hard lots of times with a rubber hammer, 6" extension, 19mm socket and the nut key, and they all freed off. I had been squirting them with WD40 since Sunday morning.

I hope to take off the calipers & discs tonight, and maybe take out all the seals & pistons. I might even be able to fit all me new bits before the weekend and still be able to go fishing!!

Any tips on removing the discs very welcome.

More questions:

I presume the wheel studs (skilfully marked with yellow) stay put?

Is the disc/plate thing (marked with red) part of the disc unit - it obviously has to come off. If it's separate, is it re-used, or does a new disc include it? (Milner have no pics).

I presume the drum (with the green X) was (will be with the new one) part of the disc unit?


Thanks gang.

Mark

[TonyN]

Never seen a disc break there! KEWL!

once you get the hub off, you need to punch the wheel studs back though the disc (front to back), and then the 2 bolts to split the disc from the hub.

Once you've seen the new disc, it should be obvious.

[da SLUG man]

Never seen a disc break there! KEWL!

once you get the hub off, you need to punch the wheel studs back though the disc (front to back), and then the 2 bolts to split the disc from the hub.

Once you've seen the new disc, it should be obvious.

on mine i just un bolted the 2 17mm caliper bolts, removed the caliper and pulled the disc straight off the hub?!?... needs hitting with hammer to loosen off mind!
the disc wasn't actually bolted to anything.

[TonyN]

on mine i just un bolted the 2 17mm caliper bolts, removed the caliper and pulled the disc straight off the hub?!?... needs hitting with hammer to loosen off mind!
the disc wasn't actually bolted to anything.

Must be a 3rd gen thing, or you REALLY broke it!

[da SLUG man]

Must be a 3rd gen thing, or you REALLY broke it!

broke it i reckon!! hehehe!!

[Mike66]

We will tuck this post away somewhere till we need a favour tony!! ok mate.
Can resurrect it at any time.

[silvtr1000]

Just spoke to my wife - my stuff has arrived from Milners. I need a house with a built-in garage. How much do I want to get stuck in tonight? All my work has to be done on my substantially gradiated driveway. Looking forward to it anyway. I'll take pics and do another over-long write-up...

Mark