Originally posted by shokenore
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Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View PostThe only other thing I can think of, is that the switch contacts could be corroded.
With a multi meter set up on resistance, with the probes over the contacts when the switch is made I have zero resistance.
With the probes on the contacts at the plug end I also get zero resistance.
At the motor connection end i also get zero resistance.
The polarity swaps from 13 volts positive to 13 volts negative with the up/down of the switch.
It works maybe once or twice then stops, but the window will always power down.
I have come to the conclusion that it must be something to do with the auto down/up doohickey circuit board.
I could be wrong but that is the only thing that is left.?
On a plus MOT today passed with an advisory on corrosion on rear brake pipeEat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.
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Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View PostYou can Lexurf's old (but fully functioning) driver's door switch unit in exchange for yours?
The switch plate part is sprayed silver though, see attachment.
Ok after a bit of searching here and there, it would appear that inside the door control module are the relays which carry out the up/down switching.
For the old hacks on here this will come as no surprise, but as the majority of links to the window issues results in dead ends this might be of use to some out there, especially those who are now encountering these issues.
So far it looks like a tenners worth of relays and some soldering or a new(ish) door control module for about £20.Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.
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