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  • Timing

    Just a quickie.....

    Recently changed the head & injectors, everything back right, cam timing spot on etc & still have a slight misfire before operating temp is reached, bit of smoke & sooty injectors. Miss goes away when warm but it runs on slightly when I switch off and shudders slightly to a halt rather than switching off clean. Pump timing was not touched during head change.

    Spoke to a local diesel specialist who seems convinced that, due to the miss happening when cold that it is probably electronic so my ECU needs to be plugged into a Toyota machine (or Launch 431?) to be reset or adjusted. I have no fault codes.

    What is the consensus here? Are the ECU's in these trucks computer adjustable? Be good to know before I go and drop £75 +VAT per hour on getting it looked at.


    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


    Cheers

    Ben

  • #2
    The ECUs can't be 'reset'.
    If the engine runs on after switch off, then it's either a dribbling injector or a vacuum pipe is missing or disconnected at the throttle body somewhere.

    How did you discover the injectors were 'sooty'? Repeated installing and removing them will introduce air into the fuel each time causing a miss-fire.

    If it runs faultlessly when warm but miss-fires when cold then it's a sensor fault, either on the pump itself or the coolant temp sensor on the side of the block.

    Do you know how to check for stored fault codes in the ECU?

    Comment


    • #3
      sounds more like a injector prob than the ECU dont sound like much of a diesel expert to me
      i,m pretty sure that they are not adjustable may be repairable
      and there are not many people that have the kit to run diag,s on thease trucks
      most can only make a guess on the lap top they show for land cruisers not the hilux
      and anyway if yer ecu is gone it be cheaper to get a second hand one
      i paid £75 inclu delivery for one for mine
      i got same motor as you 3rd gen 1998
      the old git

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Vince,

        All vac lines checked many times mate. Injectors were replaced after doing the head due to having these issues since rebuild. The injectors from the old head were very clean but when removed to re-install into new head but when I replaced them with a diesel bob set on Friday, the old ones were sooty which I have to say I expected due to the black grey smoke and diesely smelling exhaust.

        Should the injectors have been "bled" after fitting?

        I had it hooked up to a "reader" at a local garage and they told me it was showing no fault codes although I have not done the pin connection method since fitting new injectors. Would the reader not have thrown anything up?

        Many thanks

        Ben

        Comment


        • #5
          Check the codes with a pin first and see if anything comes up.
          well, that was a bad idea!

          Comment


          • #6
            Turbo giving boost ?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by wishbone View Post
              Turbo giving boost ?
              Yup and sounds fine.

              Will check with a bit of wire in the ECU and see if anything comes up. Do general garage readers that plug into the diagnostics port not show up faults?

              Cheers

              Ben

              Comment


              • #8
                Not often on surfs
                well, that was a bad idea!

                Comment


                • #9
                  OK, connected TE1 & E1 in the diagnostic plug tonight and got continual short flashes of check light indicating that all is well however the O/D light was flashing too, is this normal?

                  Then connected TE2 & E1 together and got the same but without O/D light flashing.

                  Any ideas?


                  Cheers

                  Ben

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    TE2 and E1 are for a different test mode, you need to go for a test drive with them connected, then switch back to the TE1 - E1 sockets and and read the codes again and see if anything has comes up while driving that isn't part of the 'basic' 9 DTC code range.

                    TE1 is for testing components against their known orginal values and getting stored codes, TE2 is for testing parts as they change during changing driving conditions and good for finding intermittant faults.

                    I'd be wary of getting to involved with too technical or expensive, like we said on the phone the other week, it ran fine before you changed the head, now it dosn't, 9 times out of 10 its something not quite right on reassembly, experiance says its something to do with pulled wires, dodgy vac lines or some crap got in the fuel system.

                    Very frustrating I know.
                    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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