Coolanty types

[tashtego]

I've just found this online while helping a friend choose a suitable coolant for his Surf...

1. Ethylene Glycol (e.g. Bluecol) - this is the traditional stuff that uses silicates to stop corrosion by passivating the metal surface. This is OK for most European cars, but not Japanese cars.
2. Ethylene Glycol - low silicate. This is required by most Japanese cars. OEM Nissan, Toyota 'red' etc. If you use high silicate AF's in jap cars the water pump seals tend to fail early. I think Merc. and BMW OEM antifreeze is also low-silicate and phosphate-free, but not sure.
3. Mono Propylene Glycol (e.g. Comma Coldstream) - this still uses silicates and is claimed to last 4 years. MPG does not conduct heat as well as EG and currently carries NO recommendation from any car manufacturer - best avoided, esp. for Jap cars. Only claim to fame is that its less toxic than EG.
4. Organo-Acid Technology (OAT) - e.g. GM 'DexCool'. Recyclable and biodegradable; organic based. Claimed life of about 5 years. MUST NOT be mixed with the types listed above - if you wish to switch to OAT type then system must be thoroughly flushed. I would not use this in an engine unless it was the original factory fill - there have been reports that it attacks certain seal materials and solders in some engines. GM (USA) currently having some fun with customers on this one....
5. Ethylene Glycol-based 'Hybrid Organo-Acid Technology' (HOAT). Uses EG, but with OAT-based corrosion inhibitors, most usually BASF's "Glysantin" package (also known as 'G-05'). Lasts 4-5 years (depending on who you believe). I think Halfords 'Advanced Antifreeze' is this stuff. Again, best to flush your system if switching to it.

Is this true? We were about to buy 5L of BP Isocool blue coolant....

Cheers

[Webbo]

I've always used Blue with no probs, Just dont mix the colours.....

[tashtego]

Since starting the thread I have done a bit of research on Aussie, NZ and South African websites. The consensus is that silicates in coolant can damage water pump seals, hence toyota and all the other jap manufacturers recommend their own Red coolant, which is silicate free. The dilemma for us here is that 10 L of toyota coolant red readymix is around 120 quid, from the main dealership! Otherwise there are the traditional blue silicate ones, such as BP Isocool CT and other cheaper brands.

What would your advice be?

Thanks a lot!

[Ben_D]

Since starting the thread I have done a bit of research on Aussie, NZ and South African websites. The consensus is that silicates in coolant can damage water pump seals, hence toyota and all the other jap manufacturers recommend their own Red coolant, which is silicate free. The dilemma for us here is that 10 L of toyota coolant red readymix is around 120 quid, from the main dealership! Otherwise there are the traditional blue silicate ones, such as BP Isocool CT and other cheaper brands.

What would your advice be?

Thanks a lot!

Drop the cash on the genuine coolant would be my advice, it lasts for years (about 10 according to a Toyota mechanic) and will work with your engine. Notworth risking it really.

Cheers

Ben

[tashtego]

Thanks Ben,
You are quite right, just seems odd to spend so much when the evidence is so patchy and anecdotal, and you see and hear so many people, such as Webbo, happily using ordinary blue coolnat in jap cars for years without any problems...when the guy at Toyota told us the red was almost 15 quid a liter I thought he meant it was concentrate, not premix...

[Webbo]

Why spend all the money, As said I have been using blue for over 7 years !

[Albannach]

Why spend all the money, As said I have been using blue for over 7 years !

It degrades and becomes less effective over time, I think the recommended replacement period for the cheap stuff is every two years.

Remember, it's not just something to stop the water freezing, it does many more things.

[Ben_D]

I think I paid about £20 per 5L of pre mix here.

I still had 10L sat here to go in, not in any hurry as the guy at Toyota laughed at me when I said I was changing it after 2 years and about 20,000 miles.

Cheers

Ben

[BUSHWHACKER]

It degrades and becomes less effective over time, I think the recommended replacement period for the cheap stuff is every two years.

Remember, it's not just something to stop the water freezing, it does many more things.

I've always used the cheaper version, but then I also like to flush the cooling system every other year.

[markp2]

Tashtego.
Why do you need any antifreeze in Malawi? I know it gets a bit chilly up on the Zomba plateau but I would have thought that keeping the thing cool was a much higher priority overall.
How about an anti-corrosion additive without any antifreeze properties. I used Redline Water Wetter in my race engines which worked to reduce engine temps as well as preventing corrosion.
Cheers,
Mark

[tashtego]

yes...

Hi Mark, your absolutely right, in fact it doesn't even freeze up at Mulanje, let alone Zomba!The thing is that I can't find any anticorrosion products like the one you mention, so us guys here normally buy stuff like BP or Holts antifreeze and coolant, for the anticorrosion properties, which works well. Only problem is that I keep reading about this silicates thing, that they can damage the jap waterpump seals. Maybe it's just a lot of old cobblers, maybe I should just go and get a "green" from the fridge and relax...thiung is here we try to prevent rather than cure, coz decent parts are rare and original toyota parts are crazy prices, so we rely on good maintenance.

Cheers