GEC electric motor

[POPEYE]

I need some advice on repairing this, as you see it would appear the courier dropped it and it has smashed the bakalite connections box that was bolted to the motor caseing, you can see the two terminals left hanging there with two wires attached to each and i assume the center post which is now badly bent was/is the earth connection, however amongst the smahed bits are another two terminals, ami right in thinking if i can refix the termaials with wires on and then connect the supply to either of these it will run and the direction it turns depends on which way round i connect the live and neutral, (i believe motors can spin in either direction) so what were the other terminals for?

any "best tips for refitting a box to house these terminals? i was thinking of say resin or rubber mold stuff (got a small can of that with the hardener)

the sellers been very good, spent quite some time on the phone to him and he already refunded half the cost, and is going to interlink with these pics to make a claim so i may even have some more refunded,
other than the damage the motor is new (unused), shaft dia and speed (1425)are sopt on for my pillar drill and also it looks right on the old drill,
anyhelp advice much apprecieaded, ta
ment to add as you see the bakalits in so many bits i cant even glue it back together to see how it looked

[Ambobeer]

Are there no connexion diagrams?
Single phase motors are not self starting, that means that if you spin them they continue to turn but they will not start to spin from rest.
To make this happen you have to involve some trickery and introduce a second winding that works out of phase somehow to the main winding. This can be done through winding in a different way or by using a capacitor. It's this second winding that dictates which way the motor spins. Connecting live and neutral either way should have no difference.

I'd guess that what you have are two windings connected in parallel. If you can work out which is one and which is the other, swapping the polarity of one or the other will effect the direction of spin. swapping both would have no effect.

One thing to be aware of, sometimes the 'start' winding is not rated for full time use and switches off once the motor is up to speed via a centrifugal switch. If this is the case here it may be that the switch could have been damaged and the motor will emit a genie type puff of smoke after a few seconds and refuse to start ever again.

I think the remaining unused terminals will just be an after effect of mass production.

Hope this lot helps a bit, can't offer much more help without looking.

[meooo]

Could they just have been holding the bakerlight part in place?

[POPEYE]

Result!!! the seller sent me a pic of another motor (he had three of these on sale) so you can now see whats what, all i need do now is identify the terminal numbers from the shattered bit, already found bits with 2, 3, 4 stamped on, so hopefully should be ably to work things out from that,

thanks Peter, meooo

[Ambobeer]

So I'd guess red and black would be a pair, you would need to separate and test with an ohmmeter, and yellow and blue would be a pair.

Connect phase to red/yellow and neutral to blue black. If what I've said is right, if it's going the wrong way try phase to red/blue and neutral to yellow/black.

How many KW is it? Do you have a starter with overload?

[POPEYE]

Eh!
i know it is a capasitor start, not sure of the KW as the plate details are in the garage, i believe it a 1/2 hp motor, will check the plate in the morning,
managed to glue some of the bits together and can now tell what the terminal numbers are, top left to right are 1 & 2 lower are 3 & 4 earth being the center post,
oh, no overlaod fitted (i think, well pretty sure)

[POPEYE]

Aye, most of my questions were asked before the guy sent me the pic of the "intact" box, and i'd glued the bits together to find where the terminal numbers were,
so do i have this right? when i come to connect a three core lead to this, and connect as per the yellow sticker details, if the motors spinning in the wrong direction do i just reverse the live and neutral wires on the lead, in other words i dont have to remove any of those two pairs exiting the caseing and reverse them?

if this was 12v i wouldn't be so $hit scared

[meooo]

Aye, most of my questions were asked before the guy sent me the pic of the "intact" box, and i'd glued the bits together to find where the terminal numbers were,
so do i have this right? when i come to connect a three core lead to this, and connect as per the yellow sticker details, if the motors spinning in the wrong direction do i just reverse the live and neutral wires on the lead, in other words i dont have to remove any of those two pairs exiting the caseing and reverse them?

if this was 12v i wouldn't be so $hit scared

Going by the label you need to swap the motor red and black leads to reverse direction Ian, not your input live/neutral

[POPEYE]

Going by the label you need to swap the motor red and black leads to reverse direction Ian, not your input live/neutral

Cheer's mate, your right, realise that now, it came to me in the night when i was thinking about it!!! just need to get or make a box to fit the terminals in now,

thanks very much everyone for the help and advise,

[Ambobeer]

Lie it does say in the label, swap red and black round.

By the way, I don't think it's capacitor start. It would have a huge appendage (the capacitor) bolted on to it if it was. That's nothing to worry about though.

[POPEYE]

hi mate, it does have a capasitor, it just dosen't show in the pics i posted, long "appendage" shaped thing fixed to the caseing, and on the plate it says "cap start"
getting there, i got the motor bolted onto the drill and sorting put the stepped pully at the mo, then i can sort out a connector box and hopefully it'll soon be up and running,
thanks again, ian

[Ambobeer]

OK, so now for the scary bit. If it's a 1HP motor, according to here:- http://hvacwebtech.com/motoramps.htm it'll take about 4.2 amps. When you switch on a motor like this it takes about 10 times that for an instant. If you're going to try to run it off a 13amp plug I think you may quickly become the proud owner of a big box of blown fuses.

Unless your drill has one built in you might want to look into a starter with an overload. This takes care of the switching and also protects the motor from burning out. Something like this:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1HP-SINGLE...item58927b74fe

Having said all that you might get away with running it from a plug top? Have a go and see, if not I'll try and guide you towards what else needs doing.

[POPEYE]

According to the description it's a 1/2 hp motor, but i take your point, i sometimes have the same problem with my compressor motor, many a time it's blown the fuse at the consumer unit on start up, (cant remember what hp that one is tho) i'll try the drill and if nesessary i'll get one of those start switches, cheers mate

[Andy Pandy]

Have a lathe with 2 hp motor and never blown a fuse yet!!!!!!
Knowing my luck next time i fire it up it will. Have consumer unit with RCD fitted and it seems to work wonders. Not being a [Lecky} dont know if this makes any difference,also run 210 amp stick welder on same circuit and 150 amp mig.


{IF IT AINT BROKE MODIFY IT}

[POPEYE]

Aye, i should have added that the comp motor very rarely does it but when it does it's always when the tanks up to pressure and the cut out's opperated, and it's when the motor restarts (or tries to restart, theres always a loud humming so i reach for the switch quick but dont make it sometimes) that it sometimes overloads the main fuse, bugga is it nearly always blows the fuse at the mains and not the 13amp one in the plug!! that knocke out all power to the garage, always guessed it was other stuff switch'd on as well as the comp that was the prob,