Sticky brakes

[BAV1]

Hi guys

after a little more help

looks like I have sticking callipers brakes are hot after a drive and can hear a chhh chhh chhh (sorry only way i can describe it) noise that changes with speed but disappears under braking also get some side to side shudder when braking.

any ideas or am I looking at new Callipers

cheers guys

[MWS]

Hi guys

after a little more help

looks like I have sticking callipers brakes are hot after a drive and can hear a chhh chhh chhh (sorry only way i can describe it) noise that changes with speed but disappears under braking also get some side to side shudder when braking.

any ideas or am I looking at new Callipers

cheers guys

How hot? Your brakes will always be hot after use. The noise that you describe sounds like your "wear indicators ", little sprung strips built into the brake pads, that break free, after they wear out, and rub on the disc. Try checking the pads.

[BAV1]

cheers mate had MOT at end of Jan and they said pads where OK but brakes where out of balance and only just passable

seems to be good wear on pads and disks

how hard is it to take the calliper off to check pistons as I've heard they can get a deposit around the piston that stops it working as well


thinking I may as well service the rear brakes to at the same time but last time I tried I couldn't get the hub off and was told the pads may be sitting in a groove of the hub and may need new shoes etc if forced are there any tricks to getting the hub off so I can at least give everything a spray

cheers again

[s car go]

Sounds to me like warped disks! New disks and pads plus rebuild calipers,or new calipers,depending upon your expertise.

Removing calipers is easy enough,but if you have a siezed piston it can be a chore getting them out. I used the cars own system to push the pistons out,by removing the pads and blocking the pistons that were moving with strips of steel,untill all the pistons were at their limits. You just need to be carefull of pushing the pistons out too far,or you end up with brake fluid everywhere. I can't remember with the back if there is an adjuster to let the shoes off???

Regards

Mark

FYI- the firm I ordered my seals from

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-4-R...item3f0d4bf832

[BAV1]

that sounds expensive

I'm sure I could fit new disks, callipers and pads (little worried about cost though)

just don't want to try fixing what I have without knowing exactly what is involved and the risks as don't want to be left without a car if I then need bits

cheers

[s car go]

Disc and pad kit,about £60 from RT
Caliper repair kit £35.
Don't waste your time and money not replacing or overhauling the calipers,because its the calipers that warp the discs,because they do not release from the discs after braking=excess heat=warped disc!

Ask me how I know!!!

[BAV1]

do you have any more info on overhauling the callipers and where to get the kit from

as I'm thinking do that first and the disks pads (as I'm thinking of doing new rear hubs and pads if I can work out how to get them off lol )

cheers

[BAV1]

sorry didn't see your ebay link so what's involved in the overhaul and how long did it take you

assuming the actual rods can be cleaned up as I've heard the develop a ring of crud that stops the full movement

don't want to spend £40 and 3 days only to have t get new callipers after all lol as that's just my luck
cheers again

[shokenore]

Just because your MOT place said the pads were ok,have you actually had a look at the pad thickness?

Jack the truck up take a wheel off and have a look.

Sticking calipers are not the end of the world .
You may find if the pads are worn down really low that the pistons are quite a way out and can sometimes "stick" when they try to retract.


My money would be on pads fubared.

[BAV1]

good point mate but the pads do look OK to be honest


cheers

[gary-r]

pull a pad out and check the face before buying anything. roughtrax are supplying pads that don't fit the discs. it leaves a lip on the back of the pad as it wears down and gives symptoms of siezed calipers. grind the lip off and the brakes work normally again.

if i remember there are 2 disc diamaters with not much between them and both sets of pads fit but cause the above.

[BAV1]

thanks Gary will do that first and post pics if needed lol

just need to find removal guide just so I am pre warned of any little clips etc that can go ping

[MWS]

pull a pad out and check the face before buying anything. roughtrax are supplying pads that don't fit the discs. it leaves a lip on the back of the pad as it wears down and gives symptoms of siezed calipers. grind the lip off and the brakes work normally again.

if i remember there are 2 disc diamaters with not much between them and both sets of pads fit but cause the above.

You're right on that, Gary. Same thing on mine, a while back. The pads looked quite meaty until they came out, and the thin top edge was relatively thick, compared to the contact area.........Check the pads, Jon. They're easily removed.

[NiftyNev]

It's difficult to know condition of calipers till you remove them and check for seized pistons. Badly seized or corroded means new callipers. Others just need a clean and a seal kit. Jack the front of vehicle up, apply brakes, then spin each wheel to see if they spin freely or the brakes are binding. Aslo check pads for uneven wear. Uneven wear is a sure sign of pistons seizing.

Nev

[BAV1]

thanks for all the ideas guys keep them coming half way through a 10 day shift so building up a list of checks so please keep them coming

cheers again