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I dont think you need anything too massive and as long as its in the airflow I think a fan is overkill too. ( In this country anyway) The in rad cooler is only a totty wee thing. If you intend bypassing the in rad one ( which I think makes sense) I would say you need to add a thermostat to your system to avoid overcooling. Hayden ( and probably others) make these fancy coolers which bypass, based on viscosity, but I still think a stat is good. Hayden dont seem to have any UK agents. I,ll be in the US in October so might get myself one. Small enough and light enough for the hand baggage.
There are plenty of write ups with varying degrees of info. The links above are just examples and contain even more links. obviously if you use 4 runner in the search rather than Surf you get much more returns.
if the air co is being binned use the space in the bash plate - theres plenty room and decent airflow. the mounting points for the air co rad can be used to mount the new cooler with a simple bracket. bash plate protects the cooler as well. mount the cooler at an angle to clear the bash plate
i have 2 16 row coolers in there with fans and a remote oil filter.
Did a quick test yesterday and connected to the aftermarket atf cooler only. Bypassed the one in the rad....my water temp readings were the same as when both are connected. Guess my atf is running at a good temp and not upsetting the water. That and fitting the prado 71degree therm with a new water pump seems to have cooled the temps quite a bit. The aftermarket water temp gauge was giving me "gauge paranoia" as it is fitted to the top hose and reads the temp of the water as it leaves the engine, thus it's hottest.
After more, more and more reading I have adjusted my driving style when going up hills fully loaded with heavy stuff and turn the O/D off. This is keeping things all lovely jubbly instead of hubbly bubbly....
if the air co is being binned use the space in the bash plate - theres plenty room and decent airflow. the mounting points for the air co rad can be used to mount the new cooler with a simple bracket. bash plate protects the cooler as well. mount the cooler at an angle to clear the bash plate
i have 2 16 row coolers in there with fans and a remote oil filter.
Mines a 3.0 so the air con rad is with the engine rad but I see where your coming from.
Im thinking that the 32 row narrow one with a thermostatic switch for a fan mounted in front of the radiator should be man enough to bypass the original and recieve plenty of airflow - if any overcooling ocurrs then potentially some of the air flow could be reduced.
I dont think you need anything too massive and as long as its in the airflow I think a fan is overkill too. ( In this country anyway) The in rad cooler is only a totty wee thing. If you intend bypassing the in rad one ( which I think makes sense) I would say you need to add a thermostat to your system to avoid overcooling. Hayden ( and probably others) make these fancy coolers which bypass, based on viscosity, but I still think a stat is good. Hayden dont seem to have any UK agents. I,ll be in the US in October so might get myself one. Small enough and light enough for the hand baggage.
There are plenty of write ups with varying degrees of info. The links above are just examples and contain even more links. obviously if you use 4 runner in the search rather than Surf you get much more returns.
Ill take a look at the threads in a mo but how would the thermostat work regarding flow of ATF? are we talking of a a cooling system that only routes ATF to the cooler once it reaches temperature and varies the flow in the same way that a a water rad does?
I got this BMW cooler off ebay, had to adapt the inlet/outlet with a couple of air-line bits, it sits just under the bumper, no fan or thermo switch but i did fit a pair of temp gauges on the flow and return, no problems with it just never got round to adding the switch and bypass, ideally (and i think im right in saying this, no douby if im wrong someone will soon tell me)
run your flow from the trans to the thermo switch, from the switch pipe to the cooler and the bypass side of the switch to a tee, pipe the return from the cooler to the tee and then to the radiator "in" connection, pipe the return from the radiator back to the trans
the thermo switch shunts the fluid directly to the rad till it reaches the temp setting of the switch whereby the switch then shunts the fluid through the cooler and then onto the rad and then back to the trans,
think thats right? confirm anyone
the swtich will cut in and out as the fluid temp rises and falls keeping it at about the optimum temp
mine just goes through the cooler then back through the rad and back to the trans
Ill take a look at the threads in a mo but how would the thermostat work regarding flow of ATF? are we talking of a a cooling system that only routes ATF to the cooler once it reaches temperature and varies the flow in the same way that a a water rad does?
Yes, it will bypass the cooler until temp is reached. Another link coming up, first one i found and its a US site, but you get the picture Im sure
Just for clarity, the flow volume itself doesnt vary, just its direction, either through the cooler, or bypassing the cooler
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