Some Help please.

[Sai-Lux]

Hi there, first-time poster on the forum but not a first time reader!

I've had my '93 2nd Gen SSR-X Hilux Surf 2.4Td since summer last year and have just been restoring her very slowly and with a low budget. She's had a hard life with previous owners! (Seriously it was like rescuing a puppy from the animal shelter) and can i just say, i knew nothing about cars before i got a Hilux! i learned on the job, so to speak, mostly from a manual, friends and this wonderful forum.

I have really enjoyed the whole process, grown a lot in confidence through 'just having a go' and exercising common sense and look forward to continuing my project surf.

The amount of work i've done to her so far is:

managed to shampoo the smell of petrol and sheep out of the interior
rewired the central locking system, (nipped in the door hinge)
installed a rear fog and switch,
swapped the Kph to Mph on the speedo assembly,
then replaced the speedo assembly, (the mileage wasn't moving)
rewired the rear de-mister,
replaced and rewired the tailgate lock switch, (so it opens with the key)
reconditioned the tailgate motor, (£30 from user on ebay)
removed the FET turbo timer (it was dead, do i need to replace this?)
replaced ball joints,
replaced the exhaust,
removed the panels and installed rear windows,
reattached the N bar to the front,
rewired and the old spots on that N bar, (one is completely rusted through)
installed a turbo, (it apparently exploded and near put the previous owner and his family into a wall, and he didn't bother replacing it)
changed the timing belt, (just for piece of mind)
replaced the nearside inner wall in the boot,
cut and fitted a new carpet for the boot and seat backs,
covered all other seats,
installed a centre seat belt,
built a roof rack/cage, (ordering spots soon hopefully)
repaired the radiator cracks multiple times,
and tried to stop that annoying right turn full lock crunch (by greasing those Steering Bump Stops) to no avail
and i've just dropped the rear drive shaft out to replace the universal joint.

...phew. I had some help by the way!

Would love to start modding her when i have the cash. i have to install running rails along the length of her to help support the new cage and then put four spots along the front. I've been waiting for a Landy bull bar (which'll need adapted) from a friend and then two more spots will go on that, and i would just love to restore the old colour again or maybe a gun metal grey instead.

But saying as how Mot and Tax are now up, this brings me to my thoughts on the suspension. I think i wanna raise her up +3" but i noticed the suspension bushes had turned to paste, so my thoughts were; take her through the MOT and see what she fails on, (hopefully not the shocks themselves) replace the things needed to pass the second time (like bushes) and save for the raised shocks. I think it saves me time and money.

So i have a few questions that i know you guys could answer:

1. Reading through the forums and chatting to a few mechanics i've realised you can put +3" Land Cruiser springs (hdj80) in the back for much cheaper and then buy the +3" longer shocks all round and raise the torsion bar at the front to match. Is this correct? Any advice for this? places to buy them etc. (Tried rough tracks and Millners but don't know the measurements of the ones i have on yet) i know i could even raise the front say +1.5" then maybe just buy +1.5" longer shocks but i'd rather not fart about if its gonna cost the same.

2. What other adjustments do i need to make after raising the car +3"? Will i then need longer brake hoses for example?

3. Apart from greasing the bump stops, (which didn't make a difference) is there another way to fix the creaky crunch on full lock right turns? Someone suggested it was an upper suspension bar bush and was a bitch to get at which puzzled me.

4. My Turbo squeals when under pressure, like an uphill climb, the turbine shaft moves very, very slightly from side to side when i opened her up. Any thoughts?

5. I would like the centre heaters to work! No air comes through them. i Have what appears to be an air con unit (motor looking device) lying on my garage floor that i think is part of it, but i'm sure there's a fan needed too.

6. i've read and heard so many different opinions about having a turbo timer, even the ones that said they're actually illegal. What does this forum think once and for all? Do i need to put one back in, or just be patient after long journeys and sit in the car with the engine running for 2mins?

I could show many photos if i get the opportunity which may help explain some of my questions.

As i'm sure everyone does when they first started, I have loads more questions but as its my first post, i don't wish to bombard the forum any more than i have!

Many thanks,

Sai

[shokenore]

Hello !!!

welcome
quite a long list you have there.
If budget is tight why dont you get a body lift ? £60 odd and 2" higher.?
I would check your alternator output if you are going to be running a load of lights,from memory I think the alternator chucks out about 45A and thats brand new not 20 yr old.

Using the search engine is a really good source of relevant info,have a look.

[puddlesurfer]

Hello welcome

[gwh200]

Hello.

My only suggestion is, don't wind torsion bars up, fit balljoint spacers. This will save untold wear on your front drivetrain.

[MWS]

Hello Sai. You might just fit in well here. You seem to have an insatiable appetite for both turning spanners and bashing the keyboard.....Keep it up!....Cheers....Mick.

[Sancho]

I'll try to answer for you:

1. Correct. Just ask for Landcruiser springs. From what I know, you don't have to specify a length, the HDJ80 springs are just longer than the surf ones. What GWH said about the torsion bars.

2. I don't think so for that amount of lift, but a grown up will confirm shortly.

3. You can get plastic caps for the bump stops, but most would recommend more grease. I'd definitely eliminate this possibility before playing with other stuff. It's 'always' the bump stops.

4. Is it a new turbo you put in? Check the hoses coming out of it. Sometimes they split and whistle under pressure.

5. Can't help without seeing what you have already. The fan and motor are, I think, in one unit. One of the breakers on here will have on if you need one. Does air come out of the other vents and can you hear a motor?

6. I think they're pointless. If you were running a highly tuned engine at amazing boosts it might have a point, but you're driving an old smelly heap and I think its best days are gone. I used to let my engine run for a bit after I stopped, but only about 10 seconds whilst I turned the lights off and looked for the stuff I'd slung in the passenger footwell.

[Sai-Lux]

Hi guys! thanks for the warm welcome! Fellas you've been outstanding. Ill work down the list;

Lol, cheers for the encouragement Mick, I think after last night's episode with the universal joint its more bashing both spanners and keyboard!!

gwh200 thanks for that, didn't know i could! Ill look up the cost of those.

shokenore, would a body lift be the better thing to do? What all is involved in that? i had one fella on here say not to. Don't know why he preferred springs to the body lift...(one thing is i love surfing and some of the main beaches car parks have a height restriction, and so this means if i raise it at all, i may not fit under the entrance bar! But i may have to just sacrifice my parking privileges for a higher ride.) Thanks also for the alternator thoughts, didn't think of that! Yeah there'll be 6 spots altogether.

Sancho, cheers for the list of answers, i like lists lol
1. What's the difference between body lift and ball joint spacers? Dumb question. Take it you wouldn't need both, its one or the other.
2. thanks good to know.
3. If it's definitely just this area making that noise then ill just try more grease. here's my efforts from last time:
This is what i was shown on the forum (not sure what the green circle meant)


and here's what i did. As you can see the end caps are still there but worn through.



If this is still the issue then ill just keep working at it til one of us gives up!

4. It was a new turbo that i got cheaper (£200 on ebay from hong kong im ashamed to say) but im pretty sure it was brand new. Thanks ill check the hoses.

5. Do these help? A asked for the air con unit, he gave me these. There was also some sort of mounting arm with it. i've no clue where it goes!




Here's what someone on the forum offered me methinks i have some bits missing!


6. LOL sounds fair enough!...thanks! and she doesn't smell anymore! well, not as bad....


So Fellas, what would be the general thought on Body lift to spring and shock lift? im looking for the one that will be less of a fuss on the old girl i think!
i take it my options are; body lift or rear +3" hdj80 springs and front ball joint spacers.




For anyone who's interested; here's last night's saga, with a happy ending.

Ok so here's my finished Drive Shaft with new uni joint. 5mins to fit the new one....2hrs to remove (hammer the crap out of) the old one!!!!! I had no idea that they were the end caps, they looked like part of the Flange! they were completely WELDED in place.



So here's the fruits of my labour.

ill put it back on the truck when my sanity has returned, along with my knuckle skin.

There was a good youtube video (if you can get past the presentation) which helped explain the manual i have.
http://youtu.be/g76yO8p4TI0

Should grease the nipples on this newly installed marvel? the instructions in the "manual" said not to as all new ones come fully greased. hmm....can you ever over grease a joint?

[shokenore]

Hi
2" body lift will set you back about $60.
Basically you undo the bodyshell from the chasis fit spacers and bolt back up.
Some mods will be required to the radiator mounts and front bumper.
There are plenty of threads from people who have done this.
My lift kit is I am embaressed to say is still in the box,have to tap up a mate with a level drive .

[Sai-Lux]

Cheers Shokenore,

Ill have a search through for all the details. Is it something I'd be able to tackle myself do you think?

I understand what its mate like i'm sure you're dying to get it done! Right now i just can't wait to get her road-legal again. MOT on 2nd Aug, got another quick check on Tue with a mechanic coz i want her to pass first time. It takes forever to get a date with the DVLA. Then we're away on a surf trip 2nd week of Aug.

Got the drive shaft back in there this afternoon so she's back on rear wheel drive! Quite satisfying when you've done it yourself, but man my body aches from draggin myself in and out from under that ###### thing.

[Albannach]

1. What's the difference between body lift and ball joint spacers? Dumb question. Take it you wouldn't need both, its one or the other.

It depends on what you want to do, one lifts the body, the other is part of a suspension lift. You can do both if you like.

3. If it's definitely just this area making that noise then ill just try more grease. here's my efforts from last time:
This is what i was shown on the forum (not sure what the green circle meant)

That picture is upside down. There are 4 steering stops, one at the front and one at the back of the hubs on each side. The green circle is showing you the grease nipple on the bottom ball joint.

5. Do these help? A asked for the air con unit, he gave me these. There was also some sort of mounting arm with it. i've no clue where it goes!

That's an air conditioning pump, but it doesn't look like a Surf one.

Here's what someone on the forum offered me methinks i have some bits missing!

What did you ask for?

i take it my options are; body lift or rear +3" hdj80 springs and front ball joint spacers.

Or both, depending what it is you want to do.

Should grease the nipples on this newly installed marvel? the instructions in the "manual" said not to as all new ones come fully greased. hmm....can you ever over grease a joint?

Either you misread the manual, or your manual is telling you shite.

Yes, you have to grease it.

[Sai-Lux]

Hi Albannach, (a fellow Celt?) thanks for joining the conversation!

Yeah essentially i just wanna make the thing taller! Im gonna research the forum, when i get a chance, into body lifts as the vibe im getting is they're cheaper.

Aye i know the image was upside down, that's how i got it on the forum, i just flipped it when i needed it. Didn't realise there were ones on the back too, just went out there and greased them too and.... NO NOISE ANYMORE!!!! fantastic, cheers pal. Still can't seem to find this grease nipple in the green circle though...

Ah ok, it looked more like an alternator to me, it was handed to me by the fella who sold it to me and he was handed it by the fella who sold it to him. perhaps it was something more symbolic, "this car was handed down to me from my father and his father before that, for generations, here take the holy alternator as a symbol of motivation, to remind you of the legacy being passed on to you."...or something like that. It did come from Ireland, you know how relics are and all that there. Or perhaps its like when you give someone a knife you're supposed to give a penny with it as a custom. It's larger than a knife and alternators are like the next step up...anyhoo!

Yeah i was asking the guy on the forum why no air came out of my central vents in the cockpit and i was told its coz they work on a pump and fan system, he then offered me this part in the photo. Which looked more like a contraption that went under the dash than in the engine bay.

As far as misreading the manual on the uni joint greasing, you tell me....

Page 230-> works on drive shaft maintenance and on 233 here's that little corker.


It's not like the Heinous Book of Lies (Haynes) we're talking about its the Aussie manual that i've also come to know and hate. =)

So short answer here; grease the nipple on the uni joint and on the drive shaft yoke sleeve? (about 4inches away from the joint).

[POPEYE]

Well you certainly got your work cut out on that old "pre-letgotopot" surf, the pic of the heater thing is in fact the heater thing that fits behind the dash on the passenger side, it's got the fan in it, whats missing is the section that holds the air-con exchanger, it bolts to the big flange you see there and the air ducting bolts onto that, if the fans not running check the fuse first, if thats ok it may well be the actual fan switch (in the heater controll unit in the dash), i modded a few for guys and come across several well burnt out

bodylift! it's perfectly "doable" on your own, if an old fecker like me can do it anyone can, when you get your lift kit it'll consist of 8 hard poly or alloy spacers that look like big cotton reels (without the lip) 2" is about the max without haveing to do any other major atlerations, there will also be 8 longer nuts and bolts, these very in lenght as they need to go in certain locations, (check the lenghts when you have removed one side of bolts to see where they go)
before you start remove all the plastic mount covers from inside the truck haveing removed the door edge trim so you can pull the carpet back and give all the old mount nuts a good dose of "WD40" or whatever over several days beforhand,
makeing a start! park on some level ground, have plenty of blocks etc and at least two jacks, remember you only jacking the body not the chassis so just make sure the thing cant roll on ya,
loosen the fuel tank hose clips top and bottom and ensure it can slide, remove the radiator bottom shroud, remove (unclip) the rubber dirt shields from both front inner wings (not a biggie but when they "pop" off while your jacking away it does tend to make one $hit one's self)
loosen all three clamps on the steering columb, remove the center console so the 4wd "HI-LO" shift is visable where it's near the tunnel metalwork (this lever sometimes rubs on the tunnel so some metal needs to be cut away, easy enough and it only happens on some 2" lifts, lower lift aint a problem,)
let the handbreak off before jacking (you will probably need to bend the handbreak pivot assembly (under the truck)after the lift to "lign" it up a bit)
either remove the front bumper or any inner wing trim thats fixed to the wing and the bumper, the bumper will req some brackets to bring it up to to where it was or there will be a 2" gap,
loosen all mount bolts but do not remove them yet, (the bolt heads have what are jokeingly called "captive washers" supposed to hold the bolt while you undo the nut but mine all gave and the whole lot turned so you either need to get someone to hold the socket and bar on the top or jam the bar while you undo em,
when all nuts are off, slowly jack up ONE SIDE keeping an eye on the break lines at the front, there's useually plenty of spare pipe coiled up there but pays to watch it, plus anything else that might be attached to both chassis and body, i did the drivers side first but i dont think it really matters, jack up till you can just remove the old bolts and slip the new spacers in, drop the new bolts through makeing sure the right bolt is in the right mount (lenghtwise), fit the nuts hand tight and then do the other side, when the jacks are down and you happy everthing's sitting good, do up all the nuts,
re-center the fuel filler hose and do up,
center the steering columb joints so no one joint only has a small bit of shaft in it, you'll prob need to replace some of the clamp nuts and bolts as the old ones fit in a groove in the splined shaft and these will now be out of line,
also check the shaft isn't rubbing too badly on the plate where it passes through the bulkhead, (some times have to grind some metal off this plate, although i didn't, it rubbed a bit but it worn itself in ok,
next check you can select HI_LO without the lever rubbing or jamming, if it's stuck like mine was just grind some metal away till it's nice and free,
next it's four little brackets to lift the rad back up the near enough where it was before, and some bumper lift brackets to bring the bumper back up to near the grill and lights, thats about it! have a look at the handbreak clivis and bent it to lign it up, have a check round and make sure everything ok and all done,
you've now got room for an intercooler on top of the motor, room to get at and dump the EGR shoit, and it looks meaner


suspension lift not too bad, i personally wouldn't lift the front by winding the torsion bars up but if you do dont go for more than one and a half inches, any more and their likely to go "BANG"
front ball jiont spacers are straight forward but remember you'll need to do (or get) the camber/castor and toe-in redone after, it'll look like a bow-legged chickin otherwise, (not to mention fecking up the tyres)
to take the increased "angle" out of the driveshafts you can either fit 2" front diff spacers, these drop the back of the diff which pivots at the front and decreases to drive-shaft angle or as i did fit free wheeling hubs on the front, click em to X2 for normal driveing and and X4 if your going off road, means jumping out the truck everytime so whichever way you do depends how much off roading you do,
LC springs on the back will give ya about 3" of lift, regarding the brakes i just spaced off the rear load compensator unit to take the "tightness" off the break hose, new plus 2" shocks all round and you'll get 33"'s on ok
i have some pics of the verious bit's if there any help, let me know,
good luck with your "project"

[Sai-Lux]

Man sorry it took so long to reply!

That was fantastic thank you so much for that in depth, step-by-step guide! I'm sure many will find that useful. Personally, im gonna do it as soon as i can and just print out your guide and follow it myself. You make it sound easy!

Where best should i get the spacers? I normally shop on somewhere like Rough Trax but they only mentioned suspension lifts and these in their lift kits section. Is it among these?

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=11&cid=150

[Rustinho]

Man sorry it took so long to reply!

That was fantastic thank you so much for that in depth, step-by-step guide! I'm sure many will find that useful. Personally, im gonna do it as soon as i can and just print out your guide and follow it myself. You make it sound easy!

Where best should i get the spacers? I normally shop on somewhere like Rough Trax but they only mentioned suspension lifts and these in their lift kits section. Is it among these?

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=11&cid=150

These guys make the body lift kits that quite a few folks on here have used. They sell on fleabay but if you buy direct it saves you a few quid.

I originally bought some slightly cheaper ones from a fleabay seller but they were such poor quality that I didn't dare risk using them!