Originally posted by tintin
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Originally posted by Apache View PostI've taken out the centre and rear roof lights ready for the same mod. The rear one being very bright would be really handy.
BogusСви можемо
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Originally posted by Apache View PostIan, the ones I got ar 16'000mcd, so pretty bright for a conventional LED package.
The seller is cjtaylor99Too young to die and too old to give a toss
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Not to pooh pooh your work (which is much better than I can/could do!!)
But for those of us who like "plug and play" mods then you can get just about the exact same set up on ebay
search for festoon led
I think making your own is way cooler plus learning how to set up led's etc is also cool (I will be sad and admit to having spent a fair few hours trawling the candlepower forum).
For those interested I tried the led inline festoons as in the led's fit between the metal terminals and found they did not work too well but then tried one like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6-SMD-LED-Lamp...item3a59561fb7
mine had 12 led's in it, I have a 4 runner so only a single light in the middle (no fancy map lights up front) and the single light in the middle is amazing lights up the whole car.
But as I said earlier keep the good work up.
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Doesn't matter as you wont be using the limiting resistors anyway. As long as the LEDs *themselves* are around the same forward voltage spec, four in series is fine for use on a 12V vehicle.
I'm glad I dont have pooh on my lights.
I could have bought festoon bulbs, but that wouldn't have been nearly as much fun, or as brightCutting steps in the roof of the world
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All those LEDs he sells are the same. He just provides them with the correct resistors to operate a single LED on either 12V or 5V. As you'd be using 4 in series, you dont need the resistor as the LED forward voltage is (from memory) 3.4V to 3.7V, so a chain of 4 will drop between 13.6V and 14.8V, which is safe for use on a 12V system.Cutting steps in the roof of the world
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Originally posted by Apache View PostAll those LEDs he sells are the same. He just provides them with the correct resistors to operate a single LED on either 12V or 5V. As you'd be using 4 in series, you dont need the resistor as the LED forward voltage is (from memory) 3.4V to 3.7V, so a chain of 4 will drop between 13.6V and 14.8V, which is safe for use on a 12V system.
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Originally posted by Albannach View PostNice mod, I think I might do something similar. If I can my get series/parallel wiring head on!
|+LED-+LED-+LED-+LED-|
|+LED-+LED-+LED-+LED-|
|+LED-+LED-+LED-+LED-|
|+LED-+LED-+LED-+LED-|
| .............................. |
+ .............................. -
Ignore the dots, the site doesn't allow blanks.
Is that right?
Looking at the layout above does the strip board run vertically?
If so does the first vertical row of LED negatives shown share the same track also running vertically?
And does the + for the next row sit in the same track as the last Neg?
Sorry to be a bit basic - although Ive done loads with wiring and stereos etc all round vehicles the last time I used a strip board or played with PCBs was when I was at school!!
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Did you get the LEDs from the same place so you got the correct ones?
Just take 4 LEDs, and join long leg to short leg, long leg to short leg til you have a row on 4 travelling at 90 degrees to the direction of the track. +ve is the long leg end, -ve is the sort leg end. Then all you do is take as many '4s' as you need and join them in parallel so the end long leg and the other end short leg are joined to the ends of the other rows of 4, just like in Albannachs crazy drawing
Done all my internal lights now. It's like the sun's in there
Just started building the red LED boards for my high level brake light. Think I'll order some new clear front indicators and fit white LED boards in them, moving the indicators to where the sidelights are now. Moved them on my 2nd gen and it looked much nicer.Last edited by Apache; 26 January 2011, 17:33.Cutting steps in the roof of the world
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It wont matter which way round you fit the rows of 4 leds in the board as long as one end of each row has a pos + and the other end has a neg -,
then connect up each end of each row pos + to lights feed, and neg- to neg
it's difficult to explain and better seeing a pic, as you know (or may not) one leg of the led is longer than the other, this is the positive leg,
on a row of four insert the four leds through the board the same way round so you have pos, neg, pos, neg, pos, neg, pos, neg, join (solder) the positives to negitaves APART FROM EACH END, this will give you a row of 4 leds soldered together with a pos leg on end and a neg leg the other,
do the same with the next row and so on, then connect the pos end of each row to your feed, and the neg end of each row to the neg/metal etc,
this may be of some help
http://led.linear1.org/led.wizToo young to die and too old to give a toss
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