Tracking!

[dieselboy]

Does anyone else have problems with tracking? I've just managed to throw mine out again! This will be the 2nd time having it done this month.

I've thought about it and I think it's because the steering arm angles are pretty steep, when the wheel is under a pushing or pulling force it has leverage on the track rod's..
Is this something I have to live with, or can I do something to stop this happening?

Granted I did just drive over a small wall but I thought it was slowly.

User error or can I strengthen or lower the steering arms?

[TonyN]

are you sure the cams arn't slipping, it'll be hard to set with all the mods, and wear ball joints quicker, but shouldn't just 'move' unless you've bent something.

[dieselboy]

I'm really not sure Tone! I've parked up and had a brief look, and all I can tell is that it now has toe out. I didn't think the cams could give toe out?

I've Friday off so looks like I know what I'll be doing on the day off!

[POPEYE]

If your cams are loose it'll throw the "toe-in (out) out
if they adjusted it right and did everything up as they should it souldn't go out of line unless ya hit summat hard,

[JUDWAK]

what ya mean small wall they are made of bricks and they not realy small when you put them togeather
so whats a small wall to you?
sounds like sumink wrong ya tracking should last longer than that dude
its not coz ya hit owt to knock it out
you would remeber something like that
it needs a fair old knock to knock ya tracking out

[puddlesurfer]

Slight thread hijack!

If you lift your truck to fit 33's (like dieselboy) how to you adjust the camber angles of the wheels?

I'm assuming he used BJ Spacers, so if you put a spacer under each of the top wishbones which lowers the hub down - effectively giving the lift , it's going to push the bottom wishbones further down, pulling the bottom of the wheel in a few degrees - Am I right? Or am I totally not understanding how these spacers work?

@Dieselboy, you were going to measure the distance from centre of hub to wheel arch for me, If you get time I'd appreciate it.

[dieselboy]

Sorry about not getting the measurements! I promise ill do this when I get home from work tonight.. hope I remember now I've promised. And you are right about camber. The bottom arms are adjustable on eccentric washes called cams if I'm not mistaken. I haven't managed to measure because last night was the first I've driven it since Saturday evening.

I think steertrak didn't tighten everything properly. To be honest it hasn't felt as good as when the first people did it right after the lift so I'm going there next. Steertrak are monkeys imo. Biosurf says he used them and it didn't feel spot on either..

The wall wasn't big, may be 30cm at most, and it wasn't a 90 degree climb either as some of it was missing, plus the other side wasn't a drop as it was level so more like a step than a wall. Should have just said step. I crawled over it. But I did hold the steering where I wanted to go, I think if I had let the steering wheel go it would have turned.
May be I drove over it wrong? Can't see how though, I've seen rock climbing videos with way bigger obstacles.. :/

Popeye I'm in Portsmouth again on Saturday!

[POPEYE]

Slight thread hijack!

If you lift your truck to fit 33's (like dieselboy) how to you adjust the camber angles of the wheels?

I'm assuming he used BJ Spacers, so if you put a spacer under each of the top wishbones which lowers the hub down - effectively giving the lift , it's going to push the bottom wishbones further down, pulling the bottom of the wheel in a few degrees - Am I right? Or am I totally not understanding how these spacers work?

@Dieselboy, you were going to measure the distance from centre of hub to wheel arch for me, If you get time I'd appreciate it.

Have a look through this, the video shows how it all works
http://www.yotatech.com/f128/drivewa...ite-up-163666/
(assumeing the soddin link works)
your dead right, fitting spacers to the top brings the bottom in (positive camber) so the lower wishbone needs to be adjusted "outboard" giveing a slight "negative camber" it dont have to be dead on zero camber so long as both sides are the same and your not running on the inside of the tread
when i did mine i removed both sides track rod ends, got the camber/castor about right then fitted 2 X 2mtr lenghts of straight batten to each wheel, measured fore and aft till both measurements were the same and adjusted the track rod ends so they just slotted back in the arms, final adjustment made after the rod nuts and split pins were refitted, this got both front wheels in lighn with each other but not in line with the rear ones, the guy in the vid used string but i didn't bother, it looked in line but in fact is slightly out so the truck "crabs" very very slightly, doesn't notice apart from the steering wheel is now "off center" i'll get round to doing it soon a i get some RSJ to jack on across the pit! *hint!!!

oops! first pic's the wrong one

[dieselboy]

Have a look through this, the video shows how it all works
http://www.yotatech.com/f128/drivewa...ite-up-163666/
(assumeing the soddin link works)

When I go there, I am informed of this:

vBulletin Message
You have been banned for the following reason:
Racial slurs, ignoring warning from a mod and posting PM publicly.

Date the ban will be lifted: Never

[POPEYE]

When I go there, I am informed of this:

Try rejoining with the user name "grand wizzard" and tell em your from Alabama