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  • 2" front diff drop blocks

    Couldn't drop the front diff by 2" ! When putting the bolts through they are no where near the holes!

    Managed to get >1" blocks in there JUST!

    What was I doing wrong? I've asked this before and been told the very front most mount just pivots down. When pivoting it down 2" the other two mounts are at too steep an angle to get the bolts in.

    ???

    At least my CVs are not at "self destruct angles" anymore though
    Oh Nana, what's my name?

  • #2
    The 2 diff spacers only need to be 1" as thats all you will get in there because of the exhaust
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/henpals/

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    • #3
      Originally posted by stormforce View Post
      The 2 diff spacers only need to be 1" as thats all you will get in there because of the exhaust
      Well, I got my exhaust bloke to modify the front pipe to allow for around 2" of clearance for the prop.

      How silly of me!

      LOL

      The 1" blocks are in there now. Thanks to TonyN for sending them They are slightly bigger than 1" though which is nice
      Last edited by dieselboy; 28 July 2010, 21:14.
      Oh Nana, what's my name?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by stormforce View Post
        The 2 diff spacers only need to be 1" as thats all you will get in there because of the exhaust
        I can't het mine in at all, the exhaust (or at least the heat shield) is too close to the diff.
        Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Albannach View Post
          I can't het mine in at all, the exhaust (or at least the heat shield) is too close to the diff.
          Why would you want to. Totally pointless mod, it ranks alongside 4" tail pipes on a saxo.
          Brian

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          • #6
            Originally posted by yoshie View Post
            Why would you want to.
            Because when my front suspension is at full drop, the driveshafts bind. If I ever get it in the air with power on to the front wheels, it'll damage a shaft.
            Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Albannach View Post
              Because when my front suspension is at full drop, the driveshafts bind. If I ever get it in the air with power on to the front wheels, it'll damage a shaft.
              Summit else going on then, I ran +4" and never had them bind on full droop.
              Brian

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              • #8
                Yoshie, when I went on a trail last Saturday I HAD to use 4WD to get up this mud / ruts. Using 4WD popped the shaft out of the CV joint enough to loose all CV bearings and split a CV boot. The big metal clip that held the boot on was mangled and to accompany this there was the famous CV clicking that suggests the CV is hitting itself. Free wheel hubs allowed me to get home.

                Just lowering the diff 1" has reduced the CV angle to more or less a torsion bar wind up with no spacers.
                We'll see how it is this weekend at Avalanche.

                The above may have been caused by the free wheel hubs though? There is a nut that goes inside the drive shaft to stop it retracting through the hub. I never used washers to space it out (didn't know I had to) so the shaft wouldnt have been able to move inwards at all. This may have pulled the CV / shaft out.

                See pic: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...3&id=534750544
                Oh Nana, what's my name?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by yoshie View Post
                  Summit else going on then,
                  Possibly, but I can't see what. I'll see what it's like on Friday, once it's had the geometry set.
                  Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by dieselboy View Post
                    The above may have been caused by the free wheel hubs though? There is a nut that goes inside the drive shaft to stop it retracting through the hub. I never used washers to space it out (didn't know I had to) so the shaft wouldnt have been able to move inwards at all. This may have pulled the CV / shaft out.
                    That's just a retaining bolt and it's only there to keep the shaft in if the circlip comes off, it won't have pulled anything anywhere. Tightening the bolt without the washers (AVM hub issue only) just locks the hub up.
                    Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Albannach View Post
                      That's just a retaining bolt and it's only there to keep the shaft in if the circlip comes off, it won't have pulled anything anywhere. Tightening the bolt without the washers (AVM hub issue only) just locks the hub up.
                      As I have found!
                      Do you know much about this circlip? I think it's off! We put a new shaft in tonight and we were rushed - I could see the circlip stil in there so I held it with a finger whilst we pushed the shaft through.
                      Oh Nana, what's my name?

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                      • #12
                        I ran 3" sus lift and 2" body lift for over 2yr. I abused the surf off road to the limit of it's ability on almost a monthly basis and never burst a shaft.

                        I had warn manual hubs for road miles but no BJ spacers.
                        Alan has just fitted BJ spacers to his truck, which runs the same set up as my old truck.
                        These spacers really helped the shaft angles and ride quality, while keeping all the extra height the 33s gave the diff.

                        I would aviod dropping the diff if at all possible as the whole idea of lift is to fit larger tyres to lift the diffs for extra clearance. I understand some trucks dont see heavy off road use and in that case diff spacers would be a simple and cheap option to get the look and aviod cv/cv boot issues.
                        If however, you are going off road hard, keep the diffs as high as your new rubber will allow.
                        Brian

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                        • #13
                          I've done the 2" spacers and 2" body lift and wound the front bars up 0.5" apprx. The upper control arm is very close if not touching the upper rubber bump stop. I didn't know this until the other day, and have no time / means to lower the truck or trim the bump stop for Avalanche.

                          Since the upper control arms mounts don't move, what is the distance from the arp to the bump stop? May be the front of my truck is higher than yours? I'm just trying to summise why I've had issues and others havent.


                          On a completely different note, How do you get more than 2" lift from the front of a 4Runner / Surf? Like what the yanks achieve. Some of them run some stupidly large lift - over 10" easy. I just can't work out how they get that much without lowering the front assembly or changing it to non-IFS completly.
                          Would have liked to have seen the front of this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZxj0...eature=related
                          Oh Nana, what's my name?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by yoshie View Post
                            I ran 3" sus lift and 2" body lift for over 2yr. I abused the surf off road to the limit of it's ability on almost a monthly basis and never burst a shaft.
                            You didn't use spacers though. The spacer pushes the bottom wishbone 2" further down than normal at full droop. A torsion bar lift only moves the suspension round its curve, the suspension never exceeds what it's designed to do.
                            Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dieselboy View Post
                              On a completely different note, How do you get more than 2" lift from the front of a 4Runner / Surf? Like what the yanks achieve. Some of them run some stupidly large lift - over 10" easy. I just can't work out how they get that much without lowering the front assembly or changing it to non-IFS completly.
                              They use 4" bracket lifts, the same as Linda has on her truck.
                              Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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