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Must admit, I've never been a fan of the Weller's myself, but I would suggest going with either those or the Antex irons. The Weller tips seem to be slightly more robust than the Antex ones, but I use an Antex unit, personally.
You generally tend to find that any other brand will either have a poor range of tips/spares, or that Weller will probably buy them out at some point and ditch the range completely. Adjustable temperature range is preferable over a fixed wattage iron too.
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Plus make sure that all parts of the joint are heated thoroughly and consistently before applying the solder, and also that the output setting of the iron is correct for the task at hand. It'll blob or not flow/bond properly otherwise.Originally posted by Predictable Bob View PostThe most important thing to remember when soldering is that everything must be clean and free from oxidation to get a good joint - that's components, wires, soldering bit AND the solder !
For the model work, (and possibly the vehicle work), I'd suggest a micro flame torch. The butane type. Every portable gas iron I've ever used seems as useful and reliable as a pile of turd.
With regards to the vehicle connections, you can simply prep the wiring in the house/workshop with your normal iron if there are a lot of joints, (and tin the wire ends if you wish), then make the final connections with crimp connectors. Properly done, and using a good crimping tool, crimped joints will be no less reliable than a soldered joint. Soldered is always going to be the best connection, but it's not the only option.Last edited by MattF; 25 November 2009, 05:01.
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