help with cooling the engine bay

[wiggy]

What i meant by turning the scoop around so the hole faces the windreen..hot air rises out.. can also strip the bash plate off the bottom to aid airflow if you are on road only.
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...t=bonnet+scoop and a picture on this one http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...t=bonnet+scoop
But as apache said unless you are making a racing car its still going to be hot as .......... in there and i wouldnt really worry about it in the uk. .....could always take the bonnet off!!!

[shokenore]

lifted bonnet detail for those interested.
has it made a difference i have no idea even the missus didnt notice?
i can see how air can exit thro the sides and rear .winter demisting for window?
but i guess if you are not off roading removing the rubber engine bay/chassis skirts would be a good idea

[greecysurf]

When a car goes to the design and build stage they look at airflow for drag co efficient and also cooling, the more air you can pass over an engine efficiently the cooler the engine will run, The plastic rubber parts on the side behind the wheel are there to keep dirt of, remove these and the airflow improves, ducting air from outside over and around the engine helps to cool it, the trick is to help the air escape the confines of the engine bay, if you look at racing cars and the way they are vented, it is done to be as efficient as possible, ie air goes in circulates, then is vented away, so the vents at the front with ducting allow air in and around the engine, the vents at the side with the ducting allow the hot air out, if you park you car with the engine running and stand near the drivers or passengers door, your legs will get very hot with the cold air blowing under and pushing the hot air out. This is the effect you need when the car is moving, ducting works as long as you have cooler air being fed in, and the warm air being fed out.

[BAV1]

lifted bonnet detail for those interested.
has it made a difference i have no idea even the missus didnt notice?
i can see how air can exit thro the sides and rear .winter demisting for window?
but i guess if you are not off roading removing the rubber engine bay/chassis skirts would be a good idea

hi mate dont think im hassling you but did you send that adaptor as i have had a recorded delivery and wasnt expecting anything if not no worries

cheers jon

[lord lucan]

lifted bonnet detail for those interested.
has it made a difference i have no idea even the missus didnt notice?
i can see how air can exit thro the sides and rear .winter demisting for window?
but i guess if you are not off roading removing the rubber engine bay/chassis skirts would be a good idea

this is the best way but bigger gap maybe 17mm nut spacers i have this on mine and you can feel the heat coming out

[shokenore]

has anybody tried wiring in a relay with a run on timer into the radiator fan,like the have on them there modern cars en that?
i'm sure the boffins at toyota would have tested the heat issues i can understand the need for cooling the engine bay when the engine is running and do you really need the engine cold?wont this cause more problems? surely you get enough air thro' the rad and blown all over by the viscous fan .
checking on some of the au and nz sites they seem to lean towards a recore on the rads and sometimes have a larger (was gonna put one snigga snigga)rad i can understand the issue with the "poor" coolant passes in the cylinder head but thats more to do with internal heat
any body any thoughts or am i misguided

[POPEYE]

has anybody tried wiring in a relay with a run on timer into the radiator fan,like the have on them there modern cars en that?
i'm sure the boffins at toyota would have tested the heat issues i can understand the need for cooling the engine bay when the engine is running and do you really need the engine cold?wont this cause more problems? surely you get enough air thro' the rad and blown all over by the viscous fan .
checking on some of the au and nz sites they seem to lean towards a recore on the rads and sometimes have a larger (was gonna put one snigga snigga)rad i can understand the issue with the "poor" coolant passes in the cylinder head but thats more to do with internal heat
any body any thoughts or am i misguided

Yes me!

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=56237

[BUSHWHACKER]

The overheating/cracking issues is definitely to do with the poor head design, mainly the water passages, they're too small, especially on the 2.4. An upgrade to a larger capacity radiator would help tremendously.

There's nothing wrong with the standard 2.4 radiator though, I've been cooling my 4.0 V8 with one for the past year with no shroud, no viscous fan only a 16" electric 'pusher' fan thats thermostatically controlled and I've had no cooling problems, plus it fills the engine bay considerably more than the 2.4 diesel engine, as you can see........

[POPEYE]

Every time i see that it makes me want to go and kick mine