some ideas needed... well more like questions...

[gwh200]

Thats Rod's problem - he's all torque.

You sure andy.....i never seem to see any effort !!

[Bibs]

Forget the 2.4 diesel as they just won’t have enough power.

Oi you they only struggle on very steep hills.

[Diezel Weazel]

Oi you they only struggle on very steep hills.

Calm down dear !!!! it's only a Forum .....

There's always a payback .... Don't know where, don't know when tho !!!!

[Bibs]

Calm down dear !!!! it's only a Forum .....

There's always a payback .... Don't know where, don't know when tho !!!!

Ha ha ha just defending my trucks honour an all that

[darkdezigns]

Oi you they only struggle on any hills.

[Bibs]

[darkdezigns]

[PDR]

The V6 has pi$$ all torque... its gutless on 33's.


from what i've read anyway!

I can’t see that 33”s will make a lot of difference. I’m running mine on 31” General Grabbers.

The V6 Petrol might not have as much torque as a diesel but it has more power.... I constantly leave a wide range of sporty hatchbacks etc standing at the lights and I’ve not come across any other diesel Surf, Mitsubishi Warrior, Nissan ect that can keep pace with my V6 once I press the ECT button.

[Bibs]

I constantly leave a wide range of sporty hatchbacks etc standing at the lights and I’ve not come across any other diesel Surf, Mitsubishi Warrior, Nissan ect that can keep pace with my V6 once I press the ECT button.

Ooooo a Hilux boy racer
yours is petrol though?

[nero279]

I can’t see that 33”s will make a lot of difference. I’m running mine on 31” General Grabbers.

The V6 Petrol might not have as much torque as a diesel but it has more power.... I constantly leave a wide range of sporty hatchbacks etc standing at the lights and I’ve not come across any other diesel Surf, Mitsubishi Warrior, Nissan ect that can keep pace with my V6 once I press the ECT button.

aye an the rest of us haven't come across any other head that fit's quite so neatly up our arses as that of a v6 owner

[RodLeach]

rod the only thing thats full of sh!t is you. its hasnt got a spare wheel on its roof has it???. its not gonna handle like a sports car,its a 2tonne truck.

I know its not going to handle like a sports car! S'why i didn't say.. if you only do a body lift you'll lose the sports car like handling!!

I had stock shock absorbers on my truck when it had its body lift fitted an it handled like sh!t! Much worse than the suspension lift. I noticed it.. Im sure someone else has noticed it!! I'd advise a suspension lift over a body lift any day of the week!

I can’t see that 33”s will make a lot of difference. I’m running mine on 31” General Grabbers.

The V6 Petrol might not have as much torque as a diesel but it has more power.... I constantly leave a wide range of sporty hatchbacks etc standing at the lights and I’ve not come across any other diesel Surf, Mitsubishi Warrior, Nissan ect that can keep pace with my V6 once I press the ECT button.

im only going with what i've read on yotatech... they have the 3.0 V6 as stock out there an they seem to hate it with a passion! Its only a tiny bit more powerful than a 3.0ltr diesel but with sh!t mpg.. Wouldn't consider one myself!

an 150bhp isn't that much! An i will promise you a Nissan navara.. new shape! Will out run your surf no trouble at all!

[RodLeach]

aye an the rest of us haven't come across any other head that fit's quite so neatly up our arses as that of a v6 owner

ohh c'mon mate!! That aint completly true!

[POPEYE]

Thats Rod's problem - he's all torque.

Hehehehehe

[00Brood]

How difficult is it to install the 2" lift kit from RT and adding the 1.5" ball joint spacers with the 2" coil spacers, manual locking hubs and can it be done in one day?? What will the final lift be? 2” or 4”… and I’m still confused about the shock length that’s needed for the lift said above???

[POPEYE]

What your planning to do is exactly what i've done, it'll be much better on a 3lt tho, you'd be hard pushed to do it all in a day unless ya get a tech weekend going, as for shocks i'd go for +4" on the back although i still have the olduns on there, they top out and bang on bumps etc, +2" on the front, 2" body lift is quite straightforward, WD all the mount bolts/nuts several days before, loose'm all three steering columb clamps, loosen the jubelee's on the fuel filler hose to the tank, remove the shift lever plate, as you may have to cut some of the tunnel, the hi-low lever jammed with a 2" lift on mine, remove the rad lower shroud, loosen all the mount bolts then do one side at a time, remove the bolts from one side and jack up enough to get the new spacers in, fit the new bolts and hand thighten, do the other side and when all is ok tighten em up, adjust the filler hose and tighten up, adjust the steering clamps so they all have a decent amount of shaft in em and not just on the end of one or the other, tighten em up, if you get bumper lift brackets and rad drop brackets with the kit fit them or make some up, (easy enough)
thats more or less your body lift,
on the back sus, either go for spacer blocks on your old springs, +2" longer springs or land cruiser springs, (i got the LC springs) with those you will need some alloy seating blocks, otherwise they dont seat properly at the top, these will give about 3" of lift, giveing around 5" lift at the back,
front sus, 2" spacers on the top wishbone, you'll need to jack the wheels clear, and after removeing em loosen the big castle nut on the top controll arm, jack up the top wishbone and larrup the controll arm so it parts, (i made up a lenght of box steel with a bolt welded to hold the top wishbone with the weight of the truck resting on this, it made removeing/refitting a lot less dangerious than the block of wood i tried frist, pic's if ya need em),
unbolt the top mound and beat out the old "captive" bolts, grind out some metal from under the top wishbone (the 2" spacer fouls there, you'll see where by offering it up), fit the spacer with the new longer bolts and refit the controll arm, and castle nut +split pin,
(i fitted new grease nipples to the top mount while i was at it, straight ones as opposed to the angled ones, it'll make greaseing up easier as the nipple will now be in the recessed hole of the spacer,refit wheels and bounce it up and down to settle it, if you want the truck looking level you could wind the torsion bars up an inch or so, i didn't bother so my fronts lower than the back, up to you, get the camber/castor/tracking redone as the front wheels will now be "bow'd" in at the bottom, (still aint had mine done yet)
33X 12.50's will go on the standard rim and should claer the arches with this lift, with a more negative camber tho you will either need more lift or cut/beat some metal till it clears on full lock,
i'm assumeing all this is good for the 3lt but if not someone will put ya right,

like i said all this stuff is fine if the trucks not gonna be your dailey commuting transport, dont have to use mine much so i can put up with the rough ride, driveing it on the m way dailey would soon pi$$ me off and forget all about fuel consumption, good luck with it,

forgot! manual hubs are a good idea and easy to fit, otherwise diff and arb spacers are recc