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This is wot i mean, it does make em stick out more and will prob will knock out an already buggered bearing quicker, i've had no probs tho, in fact i thinks it's better than adding wheel spacers as the spider's up against the hub where it originaly was, just the rims have been reversed, once you have the tyre removed it's quite easy to rebolt em and use a quality sealant (like sika) to reseal the bolted joint which is done on the inside prior to getting the tyre refitted
This is wot i mean, it does make em stick out more and will prob will knock out an already buggered bearing quicker, i've had no probs tho, in fact i thinks it's better than adding wheel spacers as the spider's up against the hub where it originaly was, just the rims have been reversed, once you have the tyre removed it's quite easy to rebolt em and use a quality sealant (like sika) to reseal the bolted joint which is done on the inside prior to getting the tyre refitted
A couple of (daft??) questions
does the tyre valve rotate to face backwards (now forwards) or do you have to inflate them from the backside?
Also - do you have to polish the inside rim and laquer it to get the same shiney finish or is the inside rim already polished/laquered to the same finish??
A couple of (daft??) questions
does the tyre valve rotate to face backwards (now forwards) or do you have to inflate them from the backside?
Also - do you have to polish the inside rim and laquer it to get the same shiney finish or is the inside rim already polished/laquered to the same finish??
I'm starting to like this idea!!
The tyre valve on these "crags" can be un done (theres a nut on the inside and rubber washers) and rotated round to suit, however i've done the same switch to my spare "mad blade" spoked alloy and you cant just turn the valve round on these, so i bought an angled valve (£5) and drilled a hole for it on the new outside rim, and blanked off the old hole with a nut, bolt washers and rubber washers plus a smear of sealant on the inside,
the hardest part of doing this is polishing the old inner rim, you need a polishing kit (non ferrious) which includes mops and taper drill or angle grinder fitting, and the polishing compounds, i rubbed em down to bare alloy with in creaseingly finer grades of wet & dry, (###### killer on you hands) then polish and finish off with solvol, dont bother useing laquer it only yellows and peels, the polished alloy stays good for ages and you can give em a quick going over with solvol if they start to dull, done mine over a year ago and their still shiney
The tyre valve on these "crags" can be un done (theres a nut on the inside and rubber washers) and rotated round to suit, however i've done the same switch to my spare "mad blade" spoked alloy and you cant just turn the valve round on these, so i bought an angled valve (£5) and drilled a hole for it on the new outside rim, and blanked off the old hole with a nut, bolt washers and rubber washers plus a smear of sealant on the inside,
the hardest part of doing this is polishing the old inner rim, you need a polishing kit (non ferrious) which includes mops and taper drill or angle grinder fitting, and the polishing compounds, i rubbed em down to bare alloy with in creaseingly finer grades of wet & dry, (###### killer on you hands) then polish and finish off with solvol, dont bother useing laquer it only yellows and peels, the polished alloy stays good for ages and you can give em a quick going over with solvol if they start to dull, done mine over a year ago and their still shiney
Was thinking of mounting them on face plate on lathe and hand polishing/burnishing to a high finish.
Thanks for the info - will post results as and when.
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