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  • #31
    Originally posted by BAV1 View Post
    thanks tony no need to get personal whats the ride like hearing mixed feedback some stating its still a stiff ride some staing they are ok like i said i prefer a stiff ride (that doesnt sound right) but need to stop the hard landings from potholes and speed bumps

    cheers again


    To be honest, the whole suspension needs sorting, if the front has been lowered like it looks it has, you may find the front is on the bump stops as well. You may find if the shocks arn't original they might be to short as well. Depends on whats been done to it, wit hthe body kit its hard to tell if its been lowered, or just worn springs and t/bars.

    Also if it has been lowered, the front bars won't be under much tension.

    IMHO +2" HD rear coils are fine, but opinions differ, if you want the truck to handle nicely on the road, and work offroad and carry weight, and depending on whats been done it, I'd probably bin the lot and fit Procomp 9000's all round, +2" rear coils, and hoick the front up a little.
    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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    • #32
      Originally posted by TonyN View Post


      To be honest, the whole suspension needs sorting, if the front has been lowered like it looks it has, you may find the front is on the bump stops as well. You may find if the shocks arn't original they might be to short as well. Depends on whats been done to it, wit hthe body kit its hard to tell if its been lowered, or just worn springs and t/bars.

      Also if it has been lowered, the front bars won't be under much tension.

      IMHO +2" HD rear coils are fine, but opinions differ, if you want the truck to handle nicely on the road, and work offroad and carry weight, and depending on whats been done it, I'd probably bin the lot and fit Procomp 9000's all round, +2" rear coils, and hoick the front up a little.
      sounds good tony been thinking along the same lines as the front also seems a littel loose any idea on cost all in to sort suspension breakdown would be good if poss i know the tyres are going to set me back around £300 - £400 any body local who can phyisically take a look and determine what is needed if im going through all that how much extra for a little lift so i can get bigger tyres

      i dont have the know how or facilities to carry the work out myself either

      what i want is like the attached as i dont do any major offroading but would like to know it can get me out of the sticky stuff when camping
      Attached Files
      Last edited by BAV1; 7 April 2008, 22:18.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by BAV1 View Post
        i know thats the next project my uncle owns a body shop and that was going to be the first job but he got busy so i got pushed out it will be coming off

        im looking at the Kumho 834 ROADVENTURE MT 31x10.5 15 as these are cheaper than the goodridge but have a very similar tread pattern

        when i remember does any one want a 5 sensor parking system still in its box i bought it for £75 but never got around to fitting it and after nearly reversing over the missus (she crouched down behind the truck) decided on a camera instead as it will come in handy when hooking up the custome trailer im modding

        cheers
        look at insa turbo dakar same tread pattern [£50+] a tyre
        Only Toyota can get you out of shite

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        • #34
          That one looks like it has a saggy arse too! Nice tyres n rims though.
          http://www.apspropertyfix.co.uk/

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          • #35
            i know but if it was level

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            • #36
              Originally posted by BAV1 View Post
              i know but if it was level
              Niiiiiiiiicce!!
              http://www.apspropertyfix.co.uk/

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              • #37
                hoping i can re-use my rims and maybe source a 5th for the back no look yet though

                Comment


                • #38
                  Keep looking theres shed loads about. Have a word with Rich (stormforce) see what he's got lying around. Or are you wanting to match your existing rims?
                  http://www.apspropertyfix.co.uk/

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                  • #39
                    thanks guys would this pretty much cover everything i would just then need tyres and to get that kit off

                    http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=150&vid=187

                    jon

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                    • #40
                      hi rich dont suppose you have any rims the same as on my truck lying about only need one for the spare

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                      • #41
                        Might be better off getting rear springs and shocks all round and winding up the t bars. Some guys on here say the t bars aren't worth uprating.
                        http://www.apspropertyfix.co.uk/

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                        • #42
                          i was just looking at the price as i think its cheaper than buying everything seperatly and maybe keep the bars or donate

                          does the hard soft setting effect all wheels if so and i wanted to replace with the switchable ones there £100+ each cant stretcg to that can you recommend which shocks you would go for i dont want to much bounce as i do alot of road driving but would like to do some gentle offroading without stressing about breaking somthing as at the moment i cross my fingers at every pothole

                          im assuming im going for

                          the uprated rear spings from milner £50
                          front shock ? £ ? from
                          rear shocks ? £ ? from
                          shock boots ? £ ? from

                          can you forsee any other problems as result of changing coils etc or should the above and tyres sort my probs once and for all out as i really like everything else about the truck and really dont want to get rid

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                          • #43
                            I'd go for Milner LC springs and procomp ES9000 rear shocks +2"

                            Wind up the front torsion bars to level her out and drive it for a while to see how she goes and then decide if you want uprated torsion bars for the front and some shocks as well.
                            Alan

                            yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by KERRSURF View Post
                              I'd go for Milner LC springs and procomp ES9000 rear shocks +2"

                              Wind up the front torsion bars to level her out and drive it for a while to see how she goes and then decide if you want uprated torsion bars for the front and some shocks as well.
                              thanks alan im now getting sick of spending lumps of cash here and there not sure what the torsion bars actually do apologies for my ignorance

                              thinking i might for the extra £100 just bit the bullet and put the milner coils on the rear and new shocks front and rear get it over with if im putting es9000 on the rear what would i put on the front whats the difference between es5000 (i think thats right) someone on here mentioned them a while back wheres the best place to get them from whats the handling and drive like on the es9000 as i dont want the ride to bouncy

                              another stupid question not looked are there any springs at the front to change if so what would i need ive not seen any on milner
                              thanks all
                              Last edited by BAV1; 7 April 2008, 23:16.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                your shocks control bound and rebound, stop you bouncing to much on your springs (rear) or torsion bars (front) so a medium to stiff shock will help to stop you feeling seasick and too bouncy. A hard shock will give maximum bound and rebound control but can feel a bit harsh.

                                I have driven the ES9000's and I think they feel really good, a compromise of stiffness and comfort.

                                You torsion bars act like your rear springs, only on the front, and they give a torsion effect of pushing the hub via the wishbones down onto the road to maintain contact.
                                Winding the bars up to level out the ride can be a bit bouncy for lots of offroad use (this is where uprated torsion bars are useful) but for road use they are ok.
                                Alan

                                yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."

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