Ok i have a twiterin noise when the engine is at idol looking at the pully there does seem to be some movement. A. is it ok to drive and B. how easy to change? any advice from anyone who has changed one before? if i take it to a garage and get them to change the cam belt also can they do it at the same time?any idea on price funds low at the moment!!!!!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
harmonic balancer
Collapse
X
-
Right! not to bad a job, it's a lot easier if you remove the rad but possible with a struggle with it in, first i'd make sure it has come adrift, if you can manage to paint a small white line accross the two halfs of it you'll be able to see if they become out of line when you run the engine,
assumeing the bond has gone you need to remove the fan assbly then undo the four bolts holding the two pullys on the front of the ballencer, slacken off the alt and steering pump (and air con pump if you have one) remove the belts, you need to lock the engine from turning, i had a 2ft bar with holes drilled so you can bolt it to two if the holes in the balencer then when you undo the crankshaft bolt (it's useually tight, so you want a decent socket and wrecking bar for leverage) the bar will jam on the chassi and stop the engine turning, fit the new one (unless your doing the timeing belt) and torque up the crank bolt, not sure what the setting is, i just made dam sure it was was tight, refit everything in reverse order and ya off,
If your doing the cam belt remove the timeing cover before fitting the new ballencer and turn the engine over till all the timeing marks are ligned up,
slacken the idler pully and remove the old belt, take care when fitting the new one in case the timeing marks move once your satisfied it's on ok re tension the idler and turn the engine over several times to make sure the marks still lign up, fefit every thing in reverse and should be ok,
when i did my belt it went on so easy that i thought i'd done it wrong,
hope this help ya mateLast edited by POPEYE; 24 March 2008, 13:15.Too young to die and too old to give a toss
Comment
-
Originally posted by hiroler View PostA. is it ok to drive
Originally posted by hiroler View PostB. how easy to change?
Originally posted by hiroler View Postif i take it to a garage and get them to change the cam belt also can they do it at the same time?
Originally posted by hiroler View Postany idea on price funds low at the moment!!!!!
Comment
-
Originally posted by POPEYE View PostRight! not to bad a job, it's a lot easier if you remove the rad but possible with a struggle with it in, first i'd make sure it has come adrift, if you can manage to paint a small white line accross the two halfs of it you'll be able to see if they become out of line when you run the engine,
assumeing the bond has gone you need to remove the fan assbly then undo the four bolts holding the two pullys on the front of the ballencer, slacken off the alt and steering pump (and air con pump if you have one) remove the belts, you need to lock the engine from turning, i had a 2ft bar with holes drilled so you can bolt it to two if the holes in the balencer then when you undo the crankshaft bolt (it's useually tight, so you want a decent socket and wrecking bar for leverage) the bar will jam on the chassi and stop the engine turning, fit the new one (unless your doing the timeing belt) and torque up the crank bolt, not sure what the setting is, i just made dam sure it was was tight, refit everything in reverse order and ya off,
If your doing the cam belt remove the timeing cover before fitting the new ballencer and turn the engine over till all the timeing marks are ligned up,
slacken the idler pully and remove the old belt, take care when fitting the new one in case the timeing marks move once your satisfied it's on ok re tension the idler and turn the engine over several times to make sure the marks still lign up, fefit every thing in reverse and should be ok,
when i did my belt it went on so easy that i thought i'd done it wrong,
hope this help ya mate
Comment
-
I think you'll know when it finally part's company, the noise, the overheating, the lack of chargeing, some pully bolts come off easy some tight, some pullys come off easy some ya need a puller, my bolt was bl00dy tight, thought i was going to snap the bolt, it did this to a cut down ring spanner and a 3 ft tube bar on it, but the pully just tapped off with a rubber mallet, just make sure you do it up tight tho and unlike me, forget it, resulting in the whole lot comeing off and shattering the pully flange and nearly buggering the crank shaft spigot,Too young to die and too old to give a toss
Comment
-
Ok so here is what i have is there anything else i need to do this job
1 cam belt
2 Tensioner
3 Idler Pulley/Gear Toothed
4 Front Crank Pulley
I was looking at the roughtrax site they sell Timing/Cam cover gasket,
Woodruff Crank key, and Cam tensioner spring is it worth changing these aswell or do i have all i need??
Comment
-
Originally posted by hiroler View PostOk so here is what i have is there anything else i need to do this job
1 cam belt
2 Tensioner
3 Idler Pulley/Gear Toothed
4 Front Crank Pulley
I was looking at the roughtrax site they sell Timing/Cam cover gasket,
Woodruff Crank key, and Cam tensioner spring is it worth changing these aswell or do i have all i need??
Oh and for christ's sake dont turn the engine over with the belt off!!!!!Last edited by POPEYE; 31 March 2008, 18:09.Too young to die and too old to give a toss
Comment
Comment