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54mm HUB box spanner now available at Difflock

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  • #16
    Originally posted by cataclysm
    Crazy mofo!

    Although a bad torque wrench can screw your bearings up -- they only need a touch, and cheapos tend to be inaccurate low down.
    I tend to spin the nut until it first meets resistance, then gently 'feel' the bearing to the right tightness.
    Don't know about the Surf yet, but my quattro used to eat bearings until I stopped getting the garage to do it.
    If thats all your doing then you havent seated the bearing properly they have to be tightend to seat them the wound back to the correct setting

    But hey it's only a wheel bearing what could possible go wrong
    Last edited by yoshie; 19 December 2007, 17:56.
    Brian

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    • #17
      http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsit...ringsfront.htm

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      • #18

        Vince I've seen that but this quote

        "The best way i can describe how tight to do it up is this.
        With the hub socket and a ratchet bar on the nut,use the weight of the ratchet to tighten up the nut."


        Now although the Oz tech site is good this avice is just wrong. To fit properly the bearing should be torqued down to seat it then slackend to the correct setting
        Brian

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        • #19
          Originally posted by yoshie
          Vince I've seen that but this quote

          "The best way i can describe how tight to do it up is this.
          With the hub socket and a ratchet bar on the nut,use the weight of the ratchet to tighten up the nut."


          Now although the Oz tech site is good this avice is just wrong. To fit properly the bearing should be torqued down to seat it then slackend to the correct setting

          Yeah, I know what you're saying, but all you need to do is make sure the outer shell of the bearing is fully seated in the hub, no need to use a torque wrench, just a weight gauge hanging from one of the wheel studs for accuracy, or for the less anally retentive, just tighten the nut until theres no disc 'wobble'

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          • #20
            Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER
            Yeah, I know what you're saying, but all you need to do is make sure the outer shell of the bearing is fully seated in the hub, no need to use a torque wrench, just a weight gauge hanging from one of the wheel studs for accuracy, or for the less anally retentive, just tighten the nut until theres no disc 'wobble'

            Thats what i done And guess what..............I'm still gettin the vibration on the steering wheel at 40
            www.scottishmudclub.com for scottish events

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            • #21
              Originally posted by smiffy
              Thats what i done And guess what..............I'm still gettin the vibration on the steering wheel at 40

              Is that since you changed wheels? maybe they need balancing.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by TonyN
                The size is 54mm, but thats a non-standard/not popular sockets size, so sockets run to about £50, 55mm fits just fine, and cost about £25 for a decent socket.

                Cool, one order for a 54mm box spanner coming right up!
                Paul </Slugsie>
                Immortal.so far!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by smiffy
                  Thats what i done And guess what..............I'm still gettin the vibration on the steering wheel at 40
                  Maybe you need to be more "anally retentive," as Vince so eloquently put it
                  Brian

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER
                    Is that since you changed wheels? maybe they need balancing.
                    Well,it is since i changed onto std rims,but they were balanced when swaped over. Perhaps a visit back to the garage is called for
                    www.scottishmudclub.com for scottish events

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by smiffy
                      Thats what i done And guess what..............I'm still gettin the vibration on the steering wheel at 40
                      on the commercial type hubs(fully floating with an inner and outer bearing)
                      you tend to tighten the bearings till you cant achieve any 'lift' on the hub assembly(generally with a crowbar)it needs to be done as yoshie said.
                      tighten to seat the bearing then back off and 'nip'

                      its pretty much the same with the surf.the hub assembly is extremely robust for such a class of vehicle.its not a fully floating hub but,it still requires the bearing to be seated.the wheel bearings would not be out of place on a small commercial !!
                      Non intercooled nothing.

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                      • #26
                        never torqued a tapered wheel bearin in me life and never had one fall off, wobble or anythin else happen other than the wheel go round like it should, worked in about 7 garage's over the last 15 years, and ive never seen anyone else torque em either, i think nipping the surfs up with the box spanner is more than sufficient imo, done me own a couple of weeks ago and there still spinning nicely, although sometimes a good source of information there are some things yer read in the haynes manuals that are like things yer read in news papers and they should be taken with a pinch of salt, again just my opinion.

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                        • #27
                          I replaced mine with Yoshie using a 55mm socket (£21 on fleabay for a Symes) and used the torque settings, ran for a day and then readjusted and they are bang-on.
                          Bearings aren't free so it's worth getting it right.

                          Garages suck!
                          Alan

                          yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by KERRSURF

                            Garages suck!
                            totally agree, but it comes in handy for workin on yer own surf in a nice warm enviroment with a ramp and all the right tools to hand

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                            • #29
                              I found the best way was to just sit an watch my uncle do that kinda stuff!!

                              Its quite easy - especially when my cousin comes out with some bully beef sarnies!

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                              • #30
                                If you want to know how tapered bearings should be installed and adjusted then go to the Timken website. Timken invented the tapered bearing as far as I know, so they should know. A torque wrench is not needed or even recommended. The only torque needed is for the initial seating of the bearing. Tapered bearings should be adjusted to allow for expansion. Torqueing a tapered bearing will remove this and shorten its life dramatically.

                                Nev

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