@ MattF

[POPEYE]

Hi mate, thanks for the pic's link, some very interesting stuff there, i've a couple of questions, the copper T you made up there, can i ask wot it was for, only i was thinking of makeing summat similar to cut into the heater hose where it sits on the bulkhead, the highest point, thought it might help bleed air out up there, and wot was the second double one for (or was it a rethink of the first one?) thinking about it that might work better for me, bleed and fill!

I've decieded to keep the viscious fan viscious, one go at the screws on the back convinced me to leave the bugger alone, christ their tight, think i'll concentrate on added cooling methods, fans, maybe an extra small rad, etc,
missed a nice alloy raceing rad on ebay, went for £20 and i did'nt have 20 quid,
So wot you running now? the electric fan, you dumped the viscious? is the electric better?, also i was a bit worried about doing the pump shaft in after continual use with the fan locked, ian

[MattF]

The first one, with just the vent screw, was the initial creation to go inline in the pipe through the bulkhead to the matrix, for bleeding air out of the system. The second pic is the updated and enhanced version. That's for the same place, but with the draintap to loop a pipe back to the rad cap opening, so that one can setup a recirculating bleed system. Vince or Chillit has a picture of that method in action.

Yup, dumped the viscous altogether. Purely electric now. Must say, upto just it appears to be performing impeccably. Have added an indicator LED on the gauge cluster that's linked to the far side of the switching relays, so that I can monitor when the fan is on/off, and it's very predictable. Normal running, without pushing the foot to the floor, the fan will usually be off at speeds of 20-30 mph +. A good hill will get the fan to kick in almost as soon as the temp starts rising slightly, and stop/start traffic will get the fan to kick in fairly quick once she's at normal operating temps. Cuts out quite quickly once she's back on a clear run going 20-30 +. The temp gauge is usually sat around 80'ish. I've never had her hit 90 since installing the electric fan, but she hasn't had a full summer of stress testing yet. On motorway runs, the fan is normally off on straight runs unless one is going up a long hill.

That three relay setup allows for manual operation, auto operation or complete over-ride of the fan.

The overall verdict, upto just, is favourable. The other beauty of the electric fan is all the extra space you have without the fan shroud and viscous fan in the way.

[POPEYE]

Right, cheers matt, i was right about the copper T's then, i've often thought, hows it suppose to fill up if the pipework is highter than the cap, i'll do a search on vince and chillitt see what set up they did, well the fan sounds ok then, i'll have to visit the s$$$$pers soon so i'll lookout for a decent electric fan and copy your set up if i may, my truck was rearely under 85 degrees, and topped 90 if i pushed it, meanwhile i'll stick the old fan back on, thanks again mate,

[MattF]

Just had a look. It's Vince who has the pic, but it's disappeared from the thread. I'm sure he'll volunteer it up again shortly, won't you Vince?

With the shrouds, there are some alloy ones knocking about if you can find them. The ones I got were GM's. Best place to head for is the rad pile where they put 'em ready to be weighed in. Saves looking under all the bonnets.

[MattF]

Btw, don't know if you'd found the diagram, but here's the relay wiring setup:

http://outgoing.bauchan.org/toyota_s...ay_diagram.jpg

and this is where/how they're mounted:

http://outgoing.bauchan.org/toyota_s...fan_relays.jpg

[POPEYE]

While i'm at the s$$$$yard i'll look out for the fan sensor switch i broke, i believe the corolla one is ok? antone with a lower temp seting than the on i had, i never did hear the thing cut in unless i switched it, and it went on to 100 degrees a couple of times, i've got 3 fans from the truck, 2 AC and the back-up, the 2 AC ones have different blade set up tho, why?

[BUSHWHACKER]

While i'm at the s$$$$yard i'll look out for the fan sensor switch i broke, i believe the corolla one is ok? antone with a lower temp seting than the on i had, i never did hear the thing cut in unless i switched it, and it went on to 100 degrees a couple of times, i've got 3 fans from the truck, 2 AC and the back-up, the 2 AC ones have different blade set up tho, why?

The A/C fans are pullers. The back-up fan is a pusher.

[POPEYE]

Ah thought they might be, but was'nt sure, so why has one got 4 blades and the other 6 (?) i think, they would work tho if i fitted an extra rad underneath there, like the ac set up but for coolant (but a bit smaller) i was thinking would an intercooler rad do for that idea, i could use one of the fans on it, it's about the right size, it's off a 3.1 trooper, was gonna dump it but it might work ok, oh well it keeps me out the boozer

[MattF]

Yup, the Corolla temp switch is the one you want. That's what controls my main fan. They're the exact same fitting, and are rated around 90 degrees, according to the stamp on the casing, but mine seems to kick in a tad lower.

[POPEYE]

Yup, the Corolla temp switch is the one you want. That's what controls my main fan. They're the exact same fitting, and are rated around 90 degrees, according to the stamp on the casing, but mine seems to kick in a tad lower.

a bit lower than the original will do for me

[MattF]

a bit lower than the original will do for me

The original aux fan switch is rated at 102 degrees, I believe, so the Corolla one is a far better replacement.