hi guys some help needed please,im in the process of making some 4" nylon blocks for a body lift.ive done the 2" body lift is there anything else i should be aware of apart from the steering column,fuel tank filler,handbrake cable,brake lines,radiator is part of the chassis now so thats no problem,i would really like to fit 35x12.5x15 .i take it that the 35 is for the width of the tyre,the 12.5 is the wall height and obviously,the 15 is the wheel diameter.is this correct.if so does anyone know if the 35s will clear the suspension components on the rear.i.e the shocks and l/c springs.or will i have to use spacers.im just mulling around with thoughs in my head,if its to difficult then im gonna have to go with the 33s.any help appreciated.
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4" body lift.
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I think you'll find the 35 is the total diameter 12.5 is the tyre width and 15 obviously rim diameterOriginally posted by vatchmanhi guys some help needed please,im in the process of making some 4" nylon blocks for a body lift.ive done the 2" body lift is there anything else i should be aware of apart from the steering column,fuel tank filler,handbrake cable,brake lines,radiator is part of the chassis now so thats no problem,i would really like to fit 35x12.5x15 .i take it that the 35 is for the width of the tyre,the 12.5 is the wall height and obviously,the 15 is the wheel diameter.is this correct.if so does anyone know if the 35s will clear the suspension components on the rear.i.e the shocks and l/c springs.or will i have to use spacers.im just mulling around with thoughs in my head,if its to difficult then im gonna have to go with the 33s.any help appreciated.If it aint broke dont fix it
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Have a look at this http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml - should give you most of the answersRoger
My Pointer ate the dog trainer
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hehehehe,ive got that covered im making stabilisers.i think the 9000s all round plus l/c springs and uprated torsion bars should take care of that vince.Originally posted by BUSHWHACKERYou'll need to put some lead shot inside the tyres so the truck won't fall over when cornering!www.overfab.uk
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I know you're an engineer and all that, but the longer the blocks are, the greater the bending stresses at the junction with the body and the chassis. The bolts will need to be pretty thick for 4" blocks wont they?Cutting steps in the roof of the world
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ive got a load of high tensile m14 bolts and nuts ,they should do the trickOriginally posted by ApacheI know you're an engineer and all that, but the longer the blocks are, the greater the bending stresses at the junction with the body and the chassis. The bolts will need to be pretty thick for 4" blocks wont they?www.overfab.uk
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Like these guys, eh VinceOriginally posted by BUSHWHACKERYou'll need to put some lead shot inside the tyres so the truck won't fall over when cornering!
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.html
yup - put some inside your tyre and no balancing weights on the rim - they automaticaly rebalance the tyre as it wears.Another member of the 'A' team
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hey thats pretty cool.didnt they use to fill tractor tyres with water to get the same effect.Originally posted by The Lovely BoyoLike these guys, eh Vince
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.html
yup - put some inside your tyre and no balancing weights on the rim - they automaticaly rebalance the tyre as it wears.www.overfab.uk
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From what I remember when me and Vince did mine, some of the mounts will take larger diameter blocks too. Would be worth it if you can get thicker nylon bar.Originally posted by vatchmanive got a load of high tensile m14 bolts and nuts ,they should do the trickCutting steps in the roof of the world
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Centrifugal force. They will always move to the outermost point which allowsOriginally posted by ApacheDoes that really work?? I'm struggling to understand why the beads would move to the bit that needs the weight added?
them to remain stationary. If it's unbalanced, they won't stabilise, and will keep
shifting, until they reach the spot where balance is achieved.
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ive got 70mm diameter nylon rod.looking at the site earlier, might be a little on the thick side for some bushing on the surf,but i can machine the thickness down,so shouldnt be a prob.Originally posted by ApacheFrom what I remember when me and Vince did mine, some of the mounts will take larger diameter blocks too. Would be worth it if you can get thicker nylon bar.www.overfab.uk
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It works - I remember seeing it on Tomorrows World (eek) many years ago. On that system they had a pipe fitted to the inside of the rim, the pipe had 6 ball bearings in it, loose, as the tyre accelerated the balls found their perfect balance.Originally posted by ApacheDoes that really work?? I'm struggling to understand why the beads would move to the bit that needs the weight added?
It's physics, see.........Last edited by The Lovely Boyo; 11 December 2006, 20:31.Another member of the 'A' team
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Three minutes late.Originally posted by The Lovely BoyoIt works - I remember seeing it on Tommorows World (eek) many years ago. On that system they had a pipe fitted to the iside of the rim, the pipe had 6 ball bearings in it, loose, as the tyre accelerated the balls found their perfect balance.
It's physics, see.........
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