Rear Suspension Lift

[Bludger]

OK, I'm getting ready to have a go at a Rear 2" Lift. I've read thread after thread from people who have done a lift, and looked at the 'Showmesomeinfo' website detailing how to change the springs. That site doesn't tell me what else I need to do to complete the lift i.e fitting new springs, adjusting the panhard Rod, front torsion bars, etc.

Has anyone done a 2" lift from start to finish that could provide a step by step guide for all us people who want to do a lift but are not exactly sure how to go about it.

If I'm doing a lift of the rear end only, will I need to make any adjustments to the front suspension?

I understand I can get a bracket to adjust the panhard rod from Explorer UK, but what is the bracket called on the Explorer website?

I've attached a picture of what I think is the Panhard Road. Is this correct? And where is the Brake Bias Valve which needs adjusting?

I'm reluctant to go out and buy a whole lifting kit because of the expense, and I only want to lift the rear. I also don't want someone else to do the lift as I would like to do it myself.

If anyone has a step by step guide, please let me know. Either post it on here or email it to me.

Cheers
Dave

[Hawaii]

Hi m8

Are you wanting to lift the rear only because it's dropped (saggy arse). If so, all you need to do is gat a couple of 20% uprated springs from Milners.

They take a couple of hours to fit, bring the back end back up - without lifting and improve the handling.

They cost £40 + vat & delivery

hope this helps

ta

hawaii

[Bludger]

Hi m8

Are you wanting to lift the rear only because it's dropped (saggy arse). If so, all you need to do is gat a couple of 20% uprated springs from Milners.

They take a couple of hours to fit, bring the back end back up - without lifting and improve the handling.

They cost £40 + vat & delivery

hope this helps

ta

hawaii

No I actually want to raise the back up more than level. Bushwacker and Dirty Dog have posted pictures on here with just a lift at the rear, and I think it makes the car look loads better.

Yes, I admit it, the lift is for aesthetic reasons rather than practical. I also hear that a lift like this improves handling as you don't get as much roll around corners. It makes everything a bit stiffer.

[TonyN]

The valve bracket is here, you can make a extension for this mount however much lift you get.



To be honest, I'd not fit the drop bracket or adjust the valve yet, let the springs settle in to their working hieght before making any permenant adjustments, as in all honesty, you don't often need to bother doing it most of the time. You rarely get a whole 2" out of a ' 2" ' rear coil.. more like 1 1/2 or so. the axle alignment isn't far out after its settled, then fit the panhard rod bracket if it still bothers you.

[BUSHWHACKER]

The only things I puchased for my rear lift, was the springs and shocks.
You need to jack up the rear of the truck, and place axle stands under the chassis rails just in front of the rear wheels. Wheels off, and unclip the handbrake cables from the control arms. Remove shocks and solenoids from the tops and unplug them. Unbolt LSPV (rear brake valve) fron axle, and the brake pipe 'tee' connector. Unbolt anti-rollbar from the axle. unbolt the panhard rod from the drivers side only and let hang loose. Now push down on one side of the axle to get the spring out (you might need spring compressors if you can't push the axle down enough)
Retrieve rubber 'cushion' from the spring and give it a clean, place on top of the new spring and re-fit new spring to the truck.
Repeat on the other side.
Then position jack under the rear diff and raise slightly to fit new shocks.
Then re-fit anti-rollbar.
Fit drop down bracket for panhard rod then re-fit panhad rod to bracket (leave the drop bracket bolts loose to help with fitting the rod)
Now you'll have to either fit a longer flexy brake hose, or make up some sort of spacer like I did to keep the slack in the original brake line.
Next is to fabricate a bracket to raise the LSPV. I just removed the bracket and turned it around and re-fitted it so that the LSPV was two inches higher.
One more thing to do is to fit longer anti-rollbars links to the ends of the bar where they connect to the chassis. I still haven't done mine, as it's on my list of 'To Dos)

Next, re-fit wheels and lower to the ground, job done.

[Bludger]

Thanks for that Vince. Just out of interest, I looked at the picture diary you posted showing your suspension lift, and noticed how clean and tidy your truck is underneath. Did you paint it yourself?

How long did it take? I wouldn't mind doing that to mine, as you can see, mine looks a bit rusty and dirty.

[BUSHWHACKER]

I did my lift over a weekend, starting on a Friday and finished on Sunday afternoon so I could clean and paint bits and pieces. I used red, smooth Hammerite, only 'cos I got given a big can of it! I sprayed the black bits with underseal spray. I'll probably keep my truck for ever so a little preventative maintenace was called for.
Also I did mine in the hot weather last year so the paint dried quickly. and I made my own drop bracket for the panhard rod too!
The shocks are white 'cos thats how they come from Explorer.

[Click]

Hi
Just got the 2" lift kit form roughtrax, i have been reading all the posts on wot to and wot not to do when fitting but i am getting completely confused !! do i need to adjust brakes ? do i need to fit panhard rod drop bkt ?. some posts say you need to, some say you dont.
I am pretty c*** when it comes to this sort of thing and the last thing i want to do is knacker up my truck!.
Any advise would be great

Many thanks in advance

Darren

[codlord]

Personally I have not fitted any drop bracket, brake pipe extension or adjusted the brake bias valve (in fact this is the first I have ever even heard of the valve!) - even with my alledged +2" springs (as other have said not usually +2" and also have sagged) and my +2" rear spring spacers.

I have not noticed any problems either visually (i.e. the wheels do not look like they are pushed to one side or whatever and not noticed any issues driving on or off road.

[TonyN]

Personally I have not fitted any drop bracket, brake pipe extension or adjusted the brake bias valve (in fact this is the first I have ever even heard of the valve!) - even with my alledged +2" springs (as other have said not usually +2" and also have sagged) and my +2" rear spring spacers.

I have not noticed any problems either visually (i.e. the wheels do not look like they are pushed to one side or whatever and not noticed any issues driving on or off road.

Yeah, what he said!

It'll fine without all the other c rap, technically the other stuff can be done to get everything perfect, but with a small lift its not usually an issue.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Yeah, well I had to do all the other c rap 'cos I would have ripped my flexy brake hose off, and my rear wheels would have locked up before the fronts and my wheels stuck out about an inch on the drivers side. so..........

[jaky cakes]

Here's a picture of my under carriage (snigger!!)
All these mods are home jobs.

[Dog_Book]

remember if you want to adjust the front just wind up the torsion bars

[TJG]

Is anyone going to seriously tell me that sticking the back 2" in the air is going to improve handling? If so why were so many Capris and Cortinas wrapped around trees and lamposts in the late 70's?

[BUSHWHACKER]

Something to do with flares and afros?