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***Admin*** · 5 September 2019, 00:15

54) INTERCOOLER

After lots, and lots, and lots of searching (and begging someone to sell me one), I managed to source an intercooler which came off a Prado with a 1KZ/TE engine (same as 2nd/3rd gen surf and what I've got). It came complete with the modded rocker cover to allow room for the intercooler etc.

I took the truck down to Tony who fitted it.

The hood scoop and "boot" (the bit underneath the hood scoop which wraps around the intercooler) is from a Nissan dual cab 4x4 thing that tony was scrapping.

The intercooler should add about 10bhp if you cross reference the factory 1kzte non intercooled versus the factory intercooled 1kzte

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_KZ_engine

**Nz Joe** · 8 November 2019, 06:53

Hi Rob, very cool build. You've inspired me to buy a 1kz and r151 and give it a go in my ln61.

I've got a few questions about to engine mounts. How far back did you have to relocate them to get the 1kz to fit? I. Also see the shifter is very close to the front of the trans tunnel. Does it foul anything being that Close?

Thanks,
Joe.

***Admin*** · 27 January 2020, 15:48

55) Leather seats from an Audi TT MK1

I've done a separate write up for this. See here:-
https://hiluxsurf.co.uk/forum/modifi...st-gen-4runner

Attached Files

***Admin*** · 27 January 2020, 15:50

56) FRIDGE

As you can see from the pic of my seats above, I've fitted a Dometic (previously Waeco) CDF-11 10.5 litre fridge instead of the usual centre console.

This cools drinks VERY quickly and has two cupholders.

***Admin*** · 27 January 2020, 15:52

57) INTERIOR LED LIGHTS

The original interior light sucked. So I installed 5x strips of LED ones which I got from ebay and put on a switch. Now I can see when I turn the lights on!

Attached Files

***Admin*** · 4 May 2020, 19:45

58) FUEL LINES & AFTERMARKET FUEL FILTER

So I kept having issues with the factory 2nd gen fuel primer, and other replacement OEM 2nd gen ones I’ve tried. The problem being that they didn’t work, or didn’t last.

With help from another Surf lover James W, I fitted:-

a) An aftermarket fuel filter with a transparent housing so you can see if it has fuel in it and if it’s clean or not. Also means filters are cheaper and they should be a bit better if I ever use veg oil

The filter etc came from www.shopaqua.co.uk :-

http://www.shopaqua.co.uk/epages/es1...ducts/A1030010

I mounted the new fuel filter with a metal plate I made (which was painted after I took this photo). The little white air breather thingy that is on the filter housing when bought new was removed and sealed to not let air in.

b) 10mm internal diameter (3/8") fuel lines all the way from fuel pump to filter housing to the tank for better fuel flow

c) One way valve to prevent air locks and fuel going back into the tank / filter housing

It can drink fuel much better now, and at least I can visually inspect if there is fuel in the filter or not.

Attached Files

***Admin*** · 4 May 2020, 19:50

59) UNDERSEAL

I want this truck to last, so preventing rust is always a big priority.

I'd previously painted part of the truck with POR15, based on recommendation from another Surf owner. I've found it has really mixed reviews, and personally I've had mixed results. It always looks amazing when first painted on, but a year or two down the line you can find it just flakes off.

So I decided to try something different this time and used Dinitrol. The one I bought screwed onto an underseal gun and I sprayed it on using an air compressor. Worked much better than painting it on with brush (like I did with the POR15) and to be fair it looks much better.

Of course only time will tell how well it worked.

Attached Files

***Admin*** · 4 May 2020, 19:51

60) IMMOBALIZER & TRACKER

I fitted an immobalizer and tracker. Obviously for security reasons I'm not going to document how / what / etc here.

***Admin*** · 4 May 2020, 20:09

61) RADIATOR GUARD

The 3.0 litre 1KZ rad hangs down a fair bit on this, so needed some protection otherwise going off-road would be a little bit nerve-racking.

I am no expert at welding, but recently bought a MIG welder and have been learning bit by bit using a combination of YouTube videos, knowledge from friends, and luck.

I built it using the following materials:-

a) Steel sheet
b) Box frame
c) Some plastic end caps (to put in the ends of the box metal)
d) Hammerite Metal Spray paint

The guard is at a bit of an angle (deliberately).

I used the following tools:-

a) Welder (details below)
b) Angle grinder (x2). They are both BOSCH battery powered ones and I leave a cutting disc on one and a grinding disc on the other

I bought my MIG Welder from Weldequip who run this really great information site which I found quite useful:-

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

I called them before ordering my MIG welder and they were very helpful and informative.

***Admin*** · 4 May 2020, 20:16

62) UNDER BONNET LIGHTS

After having fitted LED lights into the interior, and loving how bright they are how much easier they make my life I decided to do the same to under bonnet.

Really simple install.

Order of wiring...

Leisure battery > fuse > little control box > under bonnet lights

The little control box simply has a fuse and then two sockets on it (input and output) so I can unplug if necessary (eg if removing the bonnet for whatever reason).

All the plugs and the control box (which is just a cheap "hobby box" or "project box" as I think they call them on ebay) were just bought from ebay and were fairly cheap, as were the LEDs.

Attached Files

***Admin*** · 4 May 2020, 20:29

63) WINCH

So I had a Goodwinch TDS 9.5 on my 2nd gen (at least that's what I think it was but the label has come off) and I decided to put it on my 1st gen.

After lot long at all the solenoid box which controls it died, as did the aftermarket wireless remote control unit I added onto it.

The solenoid box is a big old thing and was sitting on top of the winch motor, making it slightly susceptible to water damage I'm guessing. I put the little remote control unit inside the same housing (by default the winch is only controllable by a wired / plug in control and not wireless).

So I hate doing jobs more than once and I wanted to set it up again in a way that hopefully I wouldn't have to fix again. I decided to put the new winch solenoid under the bonnet so it's less exposed to the elements, and same for the remote control unit.

I did some research on what grade of cabling I'd need, and it seemed that 50mm2 would be the ticket for the kind of winch I have.
IMPORTANT - Make sure you use proper cabling (copper I'm assuming) rather than the cheap CCA stuff which is a copper alloy and a lot cheaper but has high resistance and won't do the job.

As you don't tend to hook winches up with a fuse (due to the large power draw) I wanted a kill switch just in case it caught fire or something so I mounted a kill switch (together with the socket for the original plug in control in case the wireless one ever dies). This was mounted on just an offcut piece of steel which I welded onto the truck. The steel offcut is one of many I have which I bought from ebay (if you're new to welding or need hobby bits like me there's sellers on ebay selling random sized offcuts fairly cheap).

The solenoid box was a generic one off ebay (not specific to my make of winch) but with the help of a bunch of searching on Google images I managed to work out how to wire it in; albeit slightly differently to the factory one.

Some winches appear to have four connections; A, F1, F2, and ground... and other winches are just like a standard DC motor and just have + and - which are reversed to change direction. Mine is the A/F1/F2/ground type but I've also attached a few different diagarams to this for whatever scenario you might be in.

The solenoid box was finally mounted with another steel plate in the engine bay near the leisure battery, together with the remote control unit. The metal plate was just another offcut, and then painted with Hammerite.

Last but not least the winch rope is a synthetic one. The original one was a steel one, which to be fair was probably better... BUT.... if a steel one breaks and catches you then you're gonna suffer a horrible injury (as TonyN on here can testify to with his trailer winch) and apparently many pay & play 4x4 sites won't let you on site if you have a winch with a steel rope due to safety concerns.

Attached Files