Little bit of advice from the Bumper/slider experts

[JD_975]

Hi all

I`ve been getting out on a few laning days and some off roading and I`m really enjoying it, so much so that after the last trip I have officially left the "shiny" squad!

The last roading trip left my wheel arch extensions looking pretty sorry for themselves and my side steps and rear bumper didn't fair too well either so the decision has been made to bin all the plastic, the side steps and the standard rear bumper in favor of some rock sliders and a tubular rear bumper.

The questions are coming in a minute hang on in there!

Right I`m familiar with MIG welding through work and I`d like to have a go at building these for myself, I`ve done some internet research into the designs I like and I`ve being looking at materials to use, I`ve happened upon a quantity of very cheap steel scaffolding tube, now the guy who has this says he has used it for 4x4 bumpers etc before and it`s fine (which he would because he is trying to sell me it) but from my google searching a lot of people say it`s a big no no but dont really give any explanation why.

So basically is it ok to use this tube, it looks to be fairly substantially built and I have access to a pipe bender that will bend it, or is it no good and if so why and what should I be looking for?

Bear in mind I`ve decided this truck is no longer a daily driver and does not have to look pretty for it`s intended purpose, a lot of people have said I need to use 3 to 4 inch tube as it will look better, I really couldnt care less what it looks like if it does the same job!

Thanks in advance

John

[gary-r]

scaffold tube will work if its going to be a cheap way of making the bits up.

only problem with it is its usually galvanised - great for rust but shitty for welding. its nearly always thin walled as well.

make sure you grind the galvy coat off the pipe real well or the welds will be soft and break easy. they will look like aero chocolate if its not clean.

personally id buy decent 3mm wall mild pipe. it will turn out much stronger and you can always get the bits powdercoated so the finish lasts.

[gary-r]

just an add on - watch the fumes - galvy smokes like mad when you weld it and you should really have an air fed mask.

blinding headaches are common and bringing up breakfast has also been known

ive been a welder for over 30 years and i hate the stuff.

[JD_975]

Thanks for the reply Gary,

The stuff I`ve looked at looks to be about 3mm wall thickness, it`s definitely not thin walled anyways but yeah it is galvanized so if I go for it I`ll be sure to grind it down properly and be careful with fumes.

I`ve done a test bend with a piece and it bent to 90 degrees fine so it`s looking good for it so far.

John

Edit: Sorry meant 60 degrees, unfortunately thats the most I can do with the gear I have available.

[TonyN]

Technically, tube is lighter, flexible and expensive, Pipe is heavy, brittle and cheap.

But everyone uses pipe, it's ok for most and cheap. But be aware of ther difference.

Others have said pipe is evil to weld, and if you whack it hard check carefully for cracks, especially if you use it a lot for jacking.

I'd use Pipe on my truck, but I wouldn't use it for fabrication on a customers truck.

[yoshie]

You can pick up blue band steel tube for around £7 a meter.
Pointless being tight if it's for safety.

You can also buy cold rolled for a little more and that is MSA Cage spec at 3.2mm wall.

[JD_975]

Thanks for all the replys, much appreciated

I think I`ll knock the scaffolding idea on the head, the whole mustard gas/cracking issue has put me off I`d rather have the right stuff if it`s to be welded on my chassis!

Yoshie I notice your sliders are strong enough to jack the truck up from, what gauge steel are you using?

[yoshie]

Thanks for all the replys, much appreciated

I think I`ll knock the scaffolding idea on the head, the whole mustard gas/cracking issue has put me off I`d rather have the right stuff if it`s to be welded on my chassis!

Yoshie I notice your sliders are strong enough to jack the truck up from, what gauge steel are you using?

52mm x 3.2mm wall blue band seamed on the outside tube and 50mm x 3.4mm box on inside length.
They are as strong as the chassis if they are welded or bolted on properly.

You will need a good MIG 150amp at least {I use a 230amp at setting 4 of 6} to weld 3.4mm to a chassis properly. Hobby migs are fine on thick steel when you can grind channels to fill but to penetrate a chassis and a 3.4mm tube you need decent amps melting a good wire speed.

[JD_975]

Thank Yoshie your a star,

My home mig is just a 130 but I can use the one at work at weekends and thats a 190 so hopefully will cope alright. You seem to have many happy customers so your formula obviously works!

One more question if you dont mind, when you weld them to the chassis do you use a gusset piece or have you found it ok without?

[yoshie]

Thank Yoshie your a star,

My home mig is just a 130 but I can use the one at work at weekends and thats a 190 so hopefully will cope alright. You seem to have many happy customers so your formula obviously works!

One more question if you dont mind, when you weld them to the chassis do you use a gusset piece or have you found it ok without?

I always add a gusset on the top. I know welding around a 2" box gives enough weld to hang the truck from. However, it just gives that little extra support for the times the slider is hit hard from below.